CountryHick

iTrader: (26)

Looks like there's quite a few 8th elecs now.
I'm kicking off my 8th electric dreams again.
My previous setup CLICK

What I'm really interested in is
Motor:..................Size/KV
Battery:................?s ?Mah ?C ?Brand
Run time:..............?Sec (flat out racing. No car park bashing)
Gearing/Speed.......?Spur ?Pinion ?Top speed KM/h Mph (or nitro comparison)
Ready to race weight.....?Kg's

What I learnt with my original setup was it's all about compromise.
Runtime vs Weight (direct effect on handling)

Could I ask the guys who've been running and testing these setups to post up their results?

CountryHick

iTrader: (26)

I'll go first.

Motor:..................NEU1512/2050KV
Battery:................6s 2650Mah 45C Thunderpower
Run time:..............280Sec (4.40mins) (flat out racing. No car park bashing)
Gearing/Speed.......45Spur 21t Pinion No radar but top speed feels same as nitro, punch is unbelievable.
Ready to race weight.....2.75Kg's

Other notes.
The packs were used already. They showed signs of puffing before use and more puffed after use.
Motor saw 70 C at end.
Speed control (MMM) didn't break a sweat.

Thinking about dropping motor KV and gearing up.
Will this change give more runtime and comparable temperatures/speed?

MikaR

Motor:..................ORION 1950KV sensored
Battery:................6s Orion 4600 mAh 90C
Run time:..............8 mins (flat out racing. No car park bashing)
Gearing/Speed.......45Spur 18T - 22T Pinion
Ready to race weight.....

Other notes.
Cooling intake added on top of the Lola body, haven't tested it yet but previously the 18T was max gearing that didin't temp cut

DLS II

Hey Yodog- couple of questions. 1. how much did your original car weigh? 2. How thin a material can I get away with on a new chassis for my Evolva? (In G10, graphite is too expensive and hard to work with) My Evolva currently weighs 82.5 ounces, I'd like to get it down to 80 ounces. I'm using a 4s A123 pack. After rereading the whole thread I now know that I must use 5mm. Your original car weight must have been between 5.5-6 lbs. Thanks, Don

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Hi Don, I actually didn't weight it. You could probably get away with 4mm for the chassis but as you said, it's normally 5mm.

DLS II

Thanks, Don

veloxrc

Hi,
my name is Armin.
Working for Shepherd Micro Racing in Germany.
Design in cooperation with a passionated Swiss Ingineer.

In attach some Pictures of our 1/8 Scale Project!!!

More informations will follow soon....

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, i've been reading through this tread, and the cars look great. In montreal, 1/8 scale gas is popular, especially Serpent models, so i'm interesting to see how these cars evolve.

I just can't help but notice how... the chassis layouts are, with the batteries at the extreme sides of the car, it must make the cars handle strangely? Has anyone modified a chassis with the belt that runs down the side going down the middle? It should be straight forward, move the pully in the front to infront of the motor, switch the belts, and move the batteries closer to the centerline, and the ESC and reciever on top.

C@T

It would be possible to run the belt in the middle, but then you will have the motor sticking out to the side by something like 100 mm from the centerline.

Rough calculation: Motor 74 mm + fixture 6 mm + pinion 10 mm + cables ???.

Not a very nice design.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

No no, leave the motor where it is, keep it a 3 belt design,

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

A couple of concerns...

1. The enlarged (1/8th, 2wd, direct ) Pro-10 car YoDog is working on appears to be a better solution. Its is lighter, simpler and has an infinitely more efficient drive train.

2. Sensorless motors have horrible race start and throttle response. A 2wd 1/8th direct drive pan car running a 550 size sensored modified motor on 2s would be faster everywhere than a Nitro 1/8th car. Modified 4wd sedans on rubber tires are going 65mph on large asphalt tracks today.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Couple questions....what happens when air packs under the nose @ 80 mph on a 3 lb car? And how will a giant pan car hold up to those types of crashes?

2wdrive

Why make a 1/8 scale pancar when you can buy a 1/10 scale 235mm pancar (pro10) and be done?

A pro10 will be lighter, can drive more comfortable on smaller circuits and is fast. A pro10 with lola, 2s with 7t delta will have more corner speed and acceleration then many can handle comfortably. Everything is already there if you want to drive a pancar really really fast.

(German Masters pro10 2012)

+ YouTube Video

(German Masters pro10 2009)

+ YouTube Video

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

It will take off and fly.

It will be fine.

M7H

This equipment is totally different from what you have seen so far, so believe me, in this case you are wrong.

Here you have there previous motor/esc combination.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdEhCun8ZRg