Yub, yub, cmdr!

I'm a newbie, and although the touring car I'll be getting soon will not be my first kit, I want to build it as well as possible since I will be racing it. I have some questions.

1) On my previous kit, the screws were so hard to thread into the parts! are there any techniques for screwing into nylon?

2) How do I minimize tweak?

3) How do I build the Xray shocks correctly?

Thank you!

TylerOwenby

the touring car kits i have built are all different when i built my avid it was hard to get the screws to thread but xray and tamiya cars really are the easiest to put together. which car are u getting?

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

I have noticed with the x-ray shock ends that they are hard to thread on the shock shaft. I took a screw and a dremel cut-off wheel and lightly ground the threads off in 3 places in line with the length of the screw, as if I was making a tap. Only thing that I didn't do was to make the edges of the threads sharp. I was interested in 'rolling' the threads into the plastic shock end rather than cutting material away. Don't screw the shock shaft in too far either, the shock ends will crack in half.

Building x-ray shocks:
put all the peices together as per manual, fill the body, install the bladder, screw on the cap... Flip the shock over and let rest for a minute or two. Then loosen the bottom shock cap and let the shock sit upside down for another minute or five. Start to compress the shock a little to bleed out the air, then re-install lower cap. Compress shock and release, it should be able to compress fully, then rebound almost all the way. Match your shocks by rebound, the fronts should rebound about the same. The rears should rebound about the same.

If there is a better method, I have not heard it yet... I am all ears on this one. I hate bleeding these shocks more than building AE off-road shocks. I used the adjustable pistons because I hate to rebuild and will put up with any negatives of the adjustable pistons because of this.

TylerOwenby

sorry comp messed up re post

adamge

iTrader: (1)

timm, the setup sheets I see have 30-50% rebound, not 'almost all the way.'

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

Then folllow those sheets. I diddn't have those set-up sheets. Maybe I need to re-bleed my shocks... I'll think about it.

ChadRacing

iTrader: (3)

If you have questions on building the shocks for a xray go here and read.... Nexus Racing has tips on building the T2 from xray

http://nexusracing.net/newsdesk_info...300343f6b8de93

Yub, yub, cmdr!

Should I tap my screw holes?

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Not on an XRAY. This isn't a poorly designed AE car you're dealing with.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

On the Xrays.
I pre tap my shock eyelets with a short 3mm screw, they will thread on to the shock shaft easier.
Put the eyelet over a wrench and screw a short screw in then put it on the shock shaft. Also if you are using the foam inserts in the shock bladder that may cause the shaft to rebound 100%.
I like the 50% rebound. If you get it just right it will push out 50%, and if you pull it out all the way it will come back in 50%.
Any time a screw doesn't want to go in on any car, a little bit of diff lube on the treads will help don't blob it on though.

Yub, yub, cmdr!

So are all the screws self-tapping? I'm glad because I built my previous kit with allen keys; this time I'll have a nice set of drivers.

Nexus Racing

The screws are machine screws, but they tap into the plastic well. On my Xrays, I pre-tap the top and bottom of my steering knuckles, and sometimes other areas like ball cups.