Please help me, going absolutely insane (shock rebuild) !!
03-10-2003, 09:18 AM
#1
Please help me, going absolutely insane (shock rebuild) !!
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, and would like to first say hello. Now, I've done a few searches, and research but I still need some help. I have an electric TC3, basically bone stock. Anyway, I'm rebuilding my rear shocks. I can't seem to get it right. I emptied all the shock oil from the shock, extended the shock then refilled. After that I VERY SLOWLY pull the shock up and down. Now, I know I'm supposed to do this until all bubbles are gone, but they just don't seem to go away. I know pulling it down too fast will cause very tiny bubbles. I pull it down very slowly, so these don't appear, however, larger bubbles do appear when the shock is all the way at the top. I did this for about an hour straight 4 or 5 times so far, and I can't seem to get it right. The bubbles never go away!
Another thing is the sound/rebound. It's not supposed to have that squishy sound is it? Also, when I fully depress the shock, how far/fast should it rebound? So far, every time the shock has had that squishy sound, and does not want to rebound. It either stays all the way down, or comes up about half way.
One shock I think is good. It doesn't make the squishy sound, but when it rebounds, it comes up all the way.
Sorry about the rant, but this is driving me insane. Just thinking about doing it again is driving me crazy!
OK, enough of my ranting. Any, and all help on this is VERY much appreciated!
Thank you,
Goldfingiz
Another thing is the sound/rebound. It's not supposed to have that squishy sound is it? Also, when I fully depress the shock, how far/fast should it rebound? So far, every time the shock has had that squishy sound, and does not want to rebound. It either stays all the way down, or comes up about half way.
One shock I think is good. It doesn't make the squishy sound, but when it rebounds, it comes up all the way.
Sorry about the rant, but this is driving me insane. Just thinking about doing it again is driving me crazy!
OK, enough of my ranting. Any, and all help on this is VERY much appreciated!
Thank you,
Goldfingiz
03-10-2003, 09:34 AM
#2
It's best to leave the shock overnight to let the bubbles work their own way out. Use a spare wheel that the shock shaft can go through, they make a good shock holder 
03-10-2003, 09:38 AM
#3
I'll try to explain the way I fill my shocks the best I can. I have a TC3 also.
1. Push the piston to the bottom, and fill with oil.
2. Push the piston up, leave for 10 seconds, and pull down very slowly while turning the piston.
3. Repeat step #2 about 5 times.
3. Refill shock with oil until you get a little 'bubble' of oil over the top of the body, and leave for a couple hours.
4. Repeat step #2 once.
5. Fill cap completely with oil and screw onto the body. The shock shaft should be very difficult if not impossible to push in.
6. Bleed all the shocks so you get equal rebound by unscrewing the cap 1/8 turn and pushing in the piston.
1. Push the piston to the bottom, and fill with oil.
2. Push the piston up, leave for 10 seconds, and pull down very slowly while turning the piston.
3. Repeat step #2 about 5 times.
3. Refill shock with oil until you get a little 'bubble' of oil over the top of the body, and leave for a couple hours.
4. Repeat step #2 once.
5. Fill cap completely with oil and screw onto the body. The shock shaft should be very difficult if not impossible to push in.
6. Bleed all the shocks so you get equal rebound by unscrewing the cap 1/8 turn and pushing in the piston.
03-10-2003, 09:42 AM
#4
Thanks for the help guys! When I leave it over night, the piston should be down right? Also, when it's down, and sitting, there are no bubbles coming up. One more thing, when I fill the cap up, shouldn't the piston be up, so that it goes down by itself when I screw the cap on?
Thanks,
Goldfingiz
Thanks,
Goldfingiz
03-10-2003, 09:57 AM
#5
OK guys, they are sitting. I'm sure if I keep pulling them up and down more bubbles will come out, but I did exactly what Lab-driver said. They're sitting with the pistons all the way down, but absolutely no bubbles are rising. I guess i'll let them sit for a few hours, thenfill the cap and screw it on. Should the piston be up or down when I screw the cap on? I read to have the piston all the way up, then quickly turn the shock upside down, and screw it onto the filled cap.
Thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it!
Thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it!
03-10-2003, 09:58 AM
#6
Tech Elite
Goldfingiz;
'Lab-driver's" method is just about the best.
Two variations would be:
1) REMOVE the Shock Shaft/Piston and fill the Shock Body with oil to the top, then reinstall the Shaft/Piston and follow the proceedures outlined by 'Lab-driver'.
(Note: I do NOT recommend this method unless you are familiar with measuring and setting shock lengths)
2) If your Shocks have Bladders, use the Bladder to force the excess oil out the top of the Shock before installing the cap(s).
Lastly, the Shock Piston MUST be at the bottom when you fill the shocks or you'll NEVER get all of the bubbles out. Do NOT force the Piston all the way to the top when bleeding or you'll create more bubbles.
Two variations would be:
1) REMOVE the Shock Shaft/Piston and fill the Shock Body with oil to the top, then reinstall the Shaft/Piston and follow the proceedures outlined by 'Lab-driver'.
(Note: I do NOT recommend this method unless you are familiar with measuring and setting shock lengths)
2) If your Shocks have Bladders, use the Bladder to force the excess oil out the top of the Shock before installing the cap(s).
Lastly, the Shock Piston MUST be at the bottom when you fill the shocks or you'll NEVER get all of the bubbles out. Do NOT force the Piston all the way to the top when bleeding or you'll create more bubbles.
03-10-2003, 10:12 AM
#7
Re: Goldfingiz;
Originally posted by popsracer
Lastly, the Shock Piston MUST be at the bottom when you fill the shocks or you'll NEVER get all of the bubbles out. Do NOT force the Piston all the way to the top when bleeding or you'll create more bubbles.
Lastly, the Shock Piston MUST be at the bottom when you fill the shocks or you'll NEVER get all of the bubbles out. Do NOT force the Piston all the way to the top when bleeding or you'll create more bubbles.
So the piston should be ALL the way down when filling with oil, then when bleeding (going up and down very slowly) I should never bring the piston all the way to the top? I was bringing it all the way up, but it was still under a tiny bit of oil.
Thanks!
Goldfingiz
03-10-2003, 10:27 AM
#8
Ride makes a shock bleeder that is about $35 place your shocks inside, pump to create a vaccum, look at all the bubbles, drink a coke, place the top of the shock on be happy.
It takes all the guess work out and voodoo with bleeding shocks. Until I had my own I never thought it was a great toll to have now I wouldn't live without one.
It takes all the guess work out and voodoo with bleeding shocks. Until I had my own I never thought it was a great toll to have now I wouldn't live without one.
03-10-2003, 11:08 AM
#9
Originally posted by Difuser
Ride makes a shock bleeder that is about $35 place your shocks inside, pump to create a vaccum, look at all the bubbles, drink a coke, place the top of the shock on be happy.
It takes all the guess work out and voodoo with bleeding shocks. Until I had my own I never thought it was a great toll to have now I wouldn't live without one.
Ride makes a shock bleeder that is about $35 place your shocks inside, pump to create a vaccum, look at all the bubbles, drink a coke, place the top of the shock on be happy.
It takes all the guess work out and voodoo with bleeding shocks. Until I had my own I never thought it was a great toll to have now I wouldn't live without one.
03-10-2003, 12:15 PM
#10
Tech Initiate
03-11-2003, 05:03 AM
#12
Here's my way of getting a good Associated shocks without leaving them overnight...
1. Use quality shock oil (some oils that come with kits are like soapy water) - Associated's seperately sold oil is good.
2. With the shock piston pulled to the bottom, fill the shock so that there is a little "hat" of oil at the top.
3. Slowly move the piston up and down a couple of times - Only go halfway up on the first stroke, because sometimes you'll free a big air bubble, and all of a suddent the piston will be OUTSIDE the oil, which will just cause more bubbles. It's acceptable to have a few tiny bubbles left in the oil.
4. Make sure there is a drop of oil left in the Associated shock cap.
5. Re-fill the shock so there is a "hat" of oil again. Move the piston up about 2/3 of the way. Screw the cap on slow and true, letting any excess oil run off. If you knock the shock unnecessarily, or misthread and lose a lot of oil, start this process again.
6. Once tightened, it's time to check the shock for rebound. With the shock end screwed on, compress the shock fully. It should go in fully without becoming stiff in the last few mm. If it won't go fully in, or becomes stiff, there's too much oil in the shock. Once released, the shock should bounce back smoothly and fairly slowly to around 1/2 of it's stroke. If the rebound is too fast or too far, it's another sign of too much oil. If the shock doesn't rebound, or squeaks badly, there's too little oil. (NOTE: the Associated dampers do not have any form of volume compensation in them. They need a small amount of air in them to work properly, so a slight squeak is acceptable).
In my opinion, the key to getting a good Associated shock is to make sure the piston is about 2/3 compressed when you tighten it. That way, you'll normally get the shock right first time.
1. Use quality shock oil (some oils that come with kits are like soapy water) - Associated's seperately sold oil is good.
2. With the shock piston pulled to the bottom, fill the shock so that there is a little "hat" of oil at the top.
3. Slowly move the piston up and down a couple of times - Only go halfway up on the first stroke, because sometimes you'll free a big air bubble, and all of a suddent the piston will be OUTSIDE the oil, which will just cause more bubbles. It's acceptable to have a few tiny bubbles left in the oil.
4. Make sure there is a drop of oil left in the Associated shock cap.
5. Re-fill the shock so there is a "hat" of oil again. Move the piston up about 2/3 of the way. Screw the cap on slow and true, letting any excess oil run off. If you knock the shock unnecessarily, or misthread and lose a lot of oil, start this process again.
6. Once tightened, it's time to check the shock for rebound. With the shock end screwed on, compress the shock fully. It should go in fully without becoming stiff in the last few mm. If it won't go fully in, or becomes stiff, there's too much oil in the shock. Once released, the shock should bounce back smoothly and fairly slowly to around 1/2 of it's stroke. If the rebound is too fast or too far, it's another sign of too much oil. If the shock doesn't rebound, or squeaks badly, there's too little oil. (NOTE: the Associated dampers do not have any form of volume compensation in them. They need a small amount of air in them to work properly, so a slight squeak is acceptable).
In my opinion, the key to getting a good Associated shock is to make sure the piston is about 2/3 compressed when you tighten it. That way, you'll normally get the shock right first time.
03-11-2003, 02:21 PM
#14
Thanks for all the good info guys! I really appreciate it!
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