Gazza_D

Gotta be blue to match the Cirrus speedo , just hope it turns up as promised. Got first race next weekend and would rather go with the L4 than my tired L3. Had a go with an L4....man they are smooth. Nice batt trays too, even more adjustment now to help get that killer set-up.

Its 19T next week, and have a nice motor that resembles Herms avatar ready to go. If you think yours is fast Herm...you should see my little baby go......perks of the job I suppose

BTW..... Dave have you heard about the R3S Alex have produced for the UK market?????? Whats different from the standard R3 except for the black graphite bits????

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

??
Haven"t heard anything about it..? ..but I might be able to find out....
-Dave

Gazza_D

Cool, might be one heading to my stable soon ya see

Whilst on the subject....if you do speak to Alex about the R4.. hows about some easily fitted gearbox covers for those dirtier tracks... some that require a couple of screws to change over... oh and just 2 screws to remove a diff/spool/one-way for fast changes would also be kool

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

R3 hmm..
but the things that you were just talking about for the R4... make it sound like you want the same options as a EVO4
-Dave

Gazza_D

But thats one of them Tam...Tam...Tam...things that are out of date and replaced before you finish building the one you got

Herminator

Had one of those days myself Gaz, at the last SMTCA round I went to. Put in the middle qualifying heat of three (even though I won the round before it) and on a tight track I seemed to find it impossible to avoid the crashed cars when I was managing to drive atleast half decently. If I went offline to avoid a car I would end up turning in wrong for the next corner since I'd be going over a slightly gravely patch or some lump or bump. Half the time I wasn't driving too well anyway, even though my practise runs were pretty darn good

My Demon 19turn is fast but I still haven't found that edge that my Matrix had at some races. The Chameloen motor seems to be a bit vague on it's gearing, you can change pinions and it almost feels like there's no difference, just a temperature change. With the Matrix I definetly knew when I hit the right pinion and temperature wasn't a factor. Yet lap times are pretty much the same.

It definetly would be good know of any changes to the R3S version, didn't Jimmy Maddison say alloy shaft holders are in the kit? would definetly make the UK price tag a bit more palletable

For the R4....
Easy change diffs would be nice, maybe a three piece bulkhead would do it. Have the two sides but half height then the top half be one peice for both sides and incorperating the shaft holders. May make the top peice a little tricky to machine though.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Looks like you guys might get the Triox treatment with the R3S...
-Dave

poop

iTrader: (27)

hi all,
i'm going to get the aluminium center shaft holders but i've noticed that there are 2 different item codes for the same item and both will fit an R3:
6520 and 6720. the cost is different but has the same description? which one is right for an R3? also, the parts list reccomends 6041 and 6042 to be used in conjunction with 6520. will i need them for use with 6720?
thanks!

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

They are two different types
the 6520 is a one bearing center shaft holder which I use on all of my CUDA's... but I only use them in the rear... I use the 6720 up front due to the double bearing the single bearing type has less friction and doesn't weight as much but you will need the spacers for the bevel gear 6041/6042.

-Dave

COLEKO

After adding mid span arms and using the stock ball studs for the arms my rear toe on the left side is reading 3 degrees and the right side is 2 degrees. Im just puzzled. I looked everything over but cant seem to find the problem. Any one know what the problems is ?

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Take a close look at the ball studs again.. because they will tend to bend after a hard crash...the point you need to looko at is where the base goes into the ball... look for little white cracks..it can nock off your toe that much also you might want to look into getting the Offset balls since they are made out of a more durable material

take a look at this and let us know what you find
-Dave

poop

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for clearing it up for me Dave
why would you use double bearing up front?
also, have you read the new issue of Xtreme rc cars? if not, they pitched the barracuda against tc3, yokomo and pro 4 and they all found that the barracuda doesn't have enough steering do you find this to be the case or just a bunch of crap?
Dave, seeing that you have an evo4, pro4, and obviously a lot more other high end cars, how do you rate the cuda against the others? are they not as fast and dont handle as great as other shaft cars? just to let you know, i am still getting one and haven't changed my mind!

COLEKO

What I forgot to mention was that with the long span arms and offset balls I had the same problem on the same side. Im trying to pinpoint the problem. Its very strange

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

I use the Double bearing holder up front because the single one isn"t as stable as the double bearing... plus you really want it to be a bit more stable up front... since the rear motor mount holds the rear pretty stable

As far as the Test with the Cars..?? which version of the CUda did they test.??? R2 or R3.. if it was the R3 then I would say that would be the case.. due to the fact that the steering rack doesn"t allow for that much steering...thats why the PAL steering rack is some what of a must
but it would be nice to get a copy of that mag so that I could rear it
-Dave

dhiracing.com

How can you increase the ackermann effect on the r2?