pumpkinfish

iTrader: (4)

wyd,

Sorry some things came up. Can't race this weekend or next weekend either

What tires are good to run there?

Gazza_D

I would have thought that a cut down cuda c hub would be still far stronger than the TC3 hub. Having seen many a hub die on the cars of those running the TC3, it must be one of the most broken parts on the car just behind the arms!!!!!

There are ways to get the adjustments you are after with respect to both roll centre and even wheelbase with the standard cuda items. Still requires a little bit of fettling though

seaball

iTrader: (9)

i have cut down the cuda hub carriers as you say. yes, they are very good. the carbon filled ones are too hard and they will break at the top where the kingpin retaining section meets the vertical part of the carrier every time. i did that two or three times in as many weeks. now i have switched to the darker standard material carriers and they are bulletproof.

the nice feature of the cuda carriers is that they produce a lower roll center than most cars since the hinge pin location is about 2mm above a standard carrier. notice the lifted lip on them.

i am also running xpress rear hubs on the car. they are zero degree hubs, and are actually inverted from the way they are intended to mount on the xpress car. works out very well with some minor machining to set a correct offset.

if anyone is looking for 0 degree rear hubs with some nice roll center locations for 3mm pins, the tech racing hubs for the my02 work very well. very stiff and reliable. my recommendation for removing rear toe in a hurry. they do use 11mm bearings though, instead of 10, but they should be a direct fit.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I ran Jaco purples front and rear. 28mm ones.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Pete..that dang speed-o is huge in that car
lotsof space though
-Dave

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Xenon Racing makes them...

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Hi Guys I have a couple of setup questions about the R2:

Do you use swaybars for racing on large to medium sized tracks?
Has anyone tried running without them and is their a big difference in handling?
also what droop settings are good for front and rear?
Thanks

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

At SOCal I belive that Dave Berger had a set up for the R2 that worked rather well with out the bars..
-Dave

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Thanks JDM!

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

No Problem
Hope you can use it

-Dave

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

I hear ya
the body colors look good together
-Dave

Merciless

Dave, was hoping you would have answered the PM ??
Cheers


Oh and for anyone thinking of doing the C-Hubs conversion like mine with the cut down hubs or just changing them the PRO4 ball studs part no.75116 are a perfect fit

seaball

iTrader: (9)

for god sakes can someone post one of those pretty setup sheets in a blank variety? man, i have been all over looking for an electronic copy of this.

Merciless

Some pic's of how your car might look if you do the "HOME" hubs mod :-

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~rod/Front.jpg

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~rod/Rear.jpg

And moving a cell over to the electric's side for MUCH better weight balance :-

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~rod/Electric's.jpg

let me know your thoughts please...........

JIMC

I'm currently strapping in the batteries on my R2 and was interested in trying some sort of carbon fiber strap with an upright at either end and the strap retained with a thumbscrew or nut or something of the like.
Is anyone doing this and what components are you using.
I'm using the Xenon chassis with all the cells on one side.
Which strap will work and which uprights at what length?

Thanks alot

Jim Crider
Team Crider Racing