Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

You could have broken the thrust screw.

As for locking the front diff, since there really isn't a spool avalible for the R2, I just replaced the diff rings with sandpaper, and didn't use any diff balls.

Ko Racer

I did this to mine

madjack

iTrader: (28)

redbullfix modified the diff halve grooves to help this (if I understand the problem) He used an exacto to enlarge the groove...very little, but it allows you to tighten the diff to a greater degree.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys, I think I may have uncovered something that should have remained buried. Anyways, go to the "other" thread to look at the locked diff.

madjack

iTrader: (28)

I switched mine out to the Tamiya balls with their new stiffer ball cup. Seemed to get rid of most of the slop...that and the 6mm Yok shims on the inner portion of the front axles

madjack

iTrader: (28)

not the "spliff" again?

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

racing this weekend madjack? or tamiya testing?

madjack

iTrader: (28)

neither...the Plasma was just delivered in time for the F1 season need to spend some this weekend getting things hooked up (tired of looking at a stack-o-boxes)

Next weekend is looking good for So Cal. How about you?

madjack

iTrader: (28)

quote:
Originally posted by RedBullFiXX
Anatomy of a Spliff aka (Rubber Diff)

Necessity is the mother of invention they say...For the Reedy Race of Champions One-Ways are not permitted, the options left are Ball-Diff, or Spool. A Ball-Diff should have better corner speed, while the Spool should have an advantage on corner exit. The One-way was developed to offer the best of both worlds, that’s where the Spliff comes into play, part spool, part diff it does it all.

Here is a simple way to make a diff feel almost like a spool, and it’s adjustable for just the right amount of drive off the corner while maintaining corner speed especially thru the high speed sweepers.

You will need 6 black o-rings.

1. Disassemble diff, reassemble using thick diff lube on diff balls.
2. Lube up 2 o-rings with a thick diff lube, like Losi purple, or Tamiya Anti-Wear grease, place 1 o-ring on each side of the diff
3. Do not use the thrust balls, place 1 thrust washer over each o-ring on each side.
4. Insert diff screw into diff, on the other side do not use diff spring, instead replace it with 4 o-rings (dry, clean).
5. Assemble with diff nut, torque as tight as you dare.
6. Adjust as necessary. Much like an off-road slipper, tighten until you can barely here it slip on hard acceleration. Check again after a few runs as the o-rings take an initial setting. After 5 runs it should hold this setting.

A properly built and adjusted Spliff should last quite some time in between rebuilds. I used the same Spliff throughout the entire Reedy Race weekend, and had some shakedown time on it the week before with little to no wear on the outdrives, and no adjustments needed.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Very cool, which manufacturer did you chose for the plasma?

If you go with a HD tuner, try to get one with a DVI cable, best picture quality out there.

Herminator

Selling your R3 KO?
Whats up?

Ko Racer

Herminator

thats descriptive
Why?
what are you going to be driving?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Is that TC3 still around?

Ko Racer

NOPE