Knowing the guy who did this and too much time at hand, i decided to translate the text. Partially an exercise for english, done mostly from top-of-the-head, there will be lots of errors. Try to endure.
Team Associated TC3 with a sideways placed motor
The whole idea of the project started mostly as a joke. The thought at hand was, how to make Asso go straight. The biggest problem is, that longitudinally placed wildly spinning motor causes quite a lot of rotor effect (?). So if this feature could be eliminated, Asso would probably go a lot straighter. Now the only thing needed was an idea, how to turn the motor sideways. The most natural option was to use cone gears in place of pinion and spur gears. After a small price comparement, the best option seemed to be HPI Savage diff gear and pinion (#86030 ja #86031).
Savage gears, naturally, weren't usable out-of-box. Because turning the causes that spur gear will have to be moved to the middle of the cardan axle (=drive shaft), the cardan had to be remade. Proper material for this was 6 millimeter (.23 inch) carbon fiber pole. Because of this, the Savage's diff gear, that goes to the place of the spur gear, was quite easily usable. It had 6 mm hub hole, so only the attaching mechanism was needed. I even thought of gluing, but decided to use a pin that goes through the spur gear and axle. Drilling a hole to the spur gear couldn't be done straight. The gear was hardened to be very hard, so it had to be (?detained?) first. The fitting was made so tight, that the pin stays in place even without glue. In addition to this pin, to the both ends of cardan axle was naturally made a bit over centimeter (.4 inch) long pins, so that the axle wouldn't spin for nothing. The attaching of these was reinforced with cyanoacrylate glue.
The pinion was a bit greater pain in the ass. First, the pinion had to be (?detained?) because of very hard hardening. Next, it had to be shortened to the length of a standard electric motor pinion. But the biggest work was in the pinion's center hole. It was originally a lot bigger than motor's 3,17 mm (.12 inch) axle, therefore the middle hole needed a proper sleeve. Finally, a hole and threads had to be made for the pinion's attaching screw, for the pinion would stay on the motor's axle.
spur gear Axle pinion gear
When the axle was fully assembled, it was time to try to fit it in the car. The spur gear will be placed so, that it hits right on the place of fourth cell, therefore a 3+3 saddle pack will be used. In middle of the Asso's chassis there is a supporting piece, that was badly in way. I removed the piece from place of the forthcoming spur gear. In addition i had to extend the fourth cells hole in the chassis also undet the spur gear. Now the spur gear is barely above the chassis. I thought that cutting the chassis makes it a lot more flexible, but no significant change was observed, so no extra strenghtening at this point.
Hole in the bottom 2 The hole in the bottom Axle attached
The motor will be differently than originally, so more dremeling was needed. Ih this version, the motor will stick about a centimeter (.4 inch) out of the chassis. For starters, a hole had to cut to the side of the chassis for the motor and motor mount. Next, supports from around the old motor mounting place were removed. Now there is enough space for motor and it's mount. But cutting the chassis side made it a lot more flexible, so some support had to be made to the side at some point. At the time, only one of the mount's screws hole fits to the current chassis. The remaining two are at the place of the old motor hole and outside of the chassis. Additionally, without a 2,5 mm raise the pinion won't fit right to the spur gear. Both problems will be solved with a properly molded 2,5 mm thick piece of carbon fibre to the mount's place. Wich coincidentally will be the next phase.
Engraving Fitting the motor
First I drew the model of the carbon fibre plate to a piece of cardboard. Using the model, I drew the sawing lines to the plate and sawed it. I drilled and (?sinked?) the motor mount's attaching holes to the plate. One attaching screw place hit to the area of the chassis, so it too needed a hole. The carbon fibre plate was attached to the chassis using epoxy. Probably a strong enough attachment. Surprisingly, the carbon plate stiffened up the chassis a lot, so for now no extra strenghtening needed. And surprisingly, the motor with it's mount fitted beautifully.
I haven't had time to install other electrics, but the desire to try it out was strong. So I tried spinning the motor with battery only. The metal gears make quite a noise. The sound will probably be smaller with some dry lube, but even with it, the sound will raise attention. The gap could also be adjusted. But worse was, that with high rounds the cardan started to flutter. This wasn't a big surprise though, as it was estimated before. So, the next phase is to find a proper bearing and make a mount for it right in front of the spur gear. It should keep the cardan in proper order. Also mounts for the servo have to be found, for some reason I don't have them.
Carbon fibre plate Bottom's up Motor attached
This project has been on the shelf for a while, even though it was close to finish. A support for the cardan had to be built for the high rev fluttering. The most natural solution was to support the axle right next to the spur gear with a bearing. One day i received a fitting piece of plastic from my loyal right hand. Because the mount was made precisely to my instructions, the bearings fitted to the mount and the mount to the car perfectly. I attached the mount to the car with a pair of 4 mm screws, so it should sit steady. Now, after a quick test, no fluttering was detected.
So only installing electrics was due to do. This was routine, and no unexpected troubles occurred. Servo fit to it's place, the receiver right behind the servo, the motor already had it's place and ESC had nice room behind motor. But the battery had to be re-soldered, as I didn't have a saddle pack with overhead connectors. While driving, the sound of the metal gears is considerably lower than expected, although while throttling the car on the pits the sound is infernal. Further conclusions of the car's handling can't be made, before I get to try the car on a real track.
Bearing mount Gear area Done