agower

hello,

was just wondering if the oneway assembly from the original mr4 (zs-640t) fits the sd/bd? wanted to know before i buy one?

heres a picture of the mr4 oneway

thanks
A Gower

speedy-932

Hi,

did anyone noticed the setup of Hiroshi Suzuki on the Yatabe Arena website? Unfortunately it's japanese... Anyone here who can translate it?
I'm interested especially in the springs he used and the notices on the bottom of the sheet?
Here's the link: http://www.yatabearena.com/settingsh...hiroshi_ya.pdf

Cheers
Chris

agower

i think the notes were about the optional chassis stiffeners, and the optional ackerman plate, but i would like to see what it was to.

blindwolf

Good Luck! I posted this many months ago with no reply from anyone. There has to be someone who can speak japanese on this site? Anyone? Do us all a favor and translate this sheet, please!

Dan Hughes

Give me a couple of days i'll email it to someone.

tharv

Hey All,
I'm new to this Touring Car thing, & could use some input. I aquired a CGM & have since been collecting parts & tools to get ready for the upcoming season. I'll be running on ozite with foam tires.

Question 1: Measuring droop ? Hopefully I did this right, but I don't think so. I disconnected the shocks & sway bar, put the blocks under the chassis & slid the gauge under pivot pin in the control arm. Is this correct ??

Question 2: Ride height ?? Looked at some carpet setups on her for a ride height #. Seems like 5.5mm is about average. Having a tough time getting it to sit that low. I've got the collars all the way to the top & have moved the shock positioning until I managed to get it down to 6mm. If I put on the Parma wheels (larger diameter wheel), I can't even get close.

I also noticed that having to fudge around the shock positions, makes the droop screws useless. The shock bottoms out before the arm gets close to the stop.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated !!
Tom

Turtlemaster

if you didn't get a manual with the cgm go to www.yokomousa.com and download one. you may have the little black shock bumpstop o ring on the bottom of the spring retainer instead of on top, you may also have rayspeed springs with the standard yok spring retainers, how you did your droop is ok, thats how i did it with a nitro car, however you can just set the chassis on a flat surface, and measure under the outer pin by the pin screw or they make one you hold the chassis itself, either way is ok. with the chassis flat on the table you should have somewhere between 4 and 6 mm of clearance, you can also find setups on the yokomo site. 5.5 mm ride height is ok, for smooth carpet most use 5mm

tharv

I know I have yoke springs (ordered a variety for setup changes). I'll check the bump stop deal. 4-6 mm w/ the chassis on the table ?? shocks disconnected ??

tharv

checked out the assembly manual & didn't see any o ring or stopper outside of the shock body ?? can you elaborate ??
Thanks !!

agower

hi, make you shocks about 61 - 63mm long in total by adjusting the plastic bit at the bottom, this will let you be able to get the rideheight as you want it. the reason you might not be getting enough is because the plastic bit is most likely screwed onto the piston is to short so it cant push the wishbone down as the inner shock parts will be at maximium travel, this will also not let you get the droop required, so set it to about 61 -63mm long and you should be able to get it all right

.on the gauge that comes with the kit you have measurements for rideheight and droop on there, the droop measurements are at one end of the thin side and go in in 1's, to set teh droop hold the car in your hand put the flat (thin ) part of the gauge onto the bottom of the chassis and then see which number the outerhingepin lines up with, on the front have it set at 5 and at the rear 4, (this is normaly a good starting point). for ride height use the wider part of the gauge with the numbers goign up in 0.5's simply put it under the car and adjust to about 5mm.

hope this helps you
A Gower

Slick990

I rember seeing a few pages back about some people running tc4 bones up front in theyre SD's. Anyone here know how it was done and what bits where used?

tharv

I think a big part of the problem w/ ride height is that I'm trying to run a stiff front spring (yoke orange) & there's not enough (static) weight to compress the spring. Changing the droop helped some, but the only way I could get 5-5.5mm ride height was to go with a softer spring. This concerns me as I was looking for a carpet/foam set up in this thread, & all the ones I found had heavier front springs than the oranges (as far as I can tell) !!

agower

@ tharv, you are checking it with the batteries and motors in arent you?

@ slick990 i think it was the rayspeed axles used with the tc3/4 bones. might be wrong though

Yokibear

What agower says is the way to do it- 61.5 shock length.Spring compression
doesn,t really affect it but definately only check ride height with everything
fitted ie batts,electrics and motor.

speedy-932

Hi,

I tested the LCG on carpet again. It pushed too much and was'nt aggressive enough. I tried a few things but nothing turned out very well.
So I walked around and talked a bit and looked at some other cars. The Xray A-Arms are available in different compounds. Alexander Stocker said that for carpet the hard compound is the best. So I took the A-Arms of my CGM and built them into the LCG. And all I can say is that it's super dialed... Lots of steering but with a lot of traction.
I will get the new steering rack and the front stiffers hopefully in the next 2 weeks so I can test with them.

Cheers
Chris