v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Can you fit Jaco 28mm foams on the front of a CGM/SD?

We race on carpet here and i've been looking at getting some of the 28mm Jaco foams instead of the 26mm Ellegi's we have been using - but there isnt much room with the 26mm foams on there. Is there any tricks or hopup to allow them to fit? It looks like they may hit the steering arms..

Is it as simple as putting a spacer between the wheel and the hub?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

for foam tires I always run the suzuki aluminum steering blocks that I have shaved down a bit so the rims don't hit. If you space the tires out it might make the car too wide.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Matt, those were my thoughts on the width too but just had to ask the question anyway

sosidge

This is a "feature" (i.e. flaw) in the older Yokomo steering setup. Because the servo link only acts on one crank, you have extra slop on the opposite wheel as it is supported by two steeriung links. It doesn't help that the standard Yokomo ball cups are a little slacker than some others on the market.

You'll see that all the Yoke's since the Rayspeed conversion have had a centre-point steering setup, so the geometry and play is even on both sides.

What I've done in an attempt to reduce the play is put little patches of plastic tape inside the ball cups on the central steering link, so they are snug as a bug. The steering is a little less free as a result, but it is nothing the servo can't overcome.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

If you use these there isn't a problem with slop or beign to firm....
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=233&id=2097
Use the open cups and it really helps with them holding and being the right tightness, being too snug can casue a lot of issues to arise. These ball cups have made not only my steering but all my turnbuckles nice and smooth.
Hope this helps
Stephen <><

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

slop: use two servo savers assembly to reduce the slop on the sloppy side. The position of the servo savers bearings are different (more spread apart) so it helps have less slop than when using the stock part. Downside: you get a few extra grams on the car. Then use RPM ballcups with Schumacher ball joints and you'll have an unbelievably slop-free car.

drilling: I was scared as heck to do it myself... but a dremel really is all it takes. The countersinking will look ugly if you do it like that (at least it looks ugly on my car, but I have two left hands...) but it will still hold the screw in as long as you don't majorly screw up. rotating the servo is an easy mod that really helps with the balance and frees up quite a bit of space for electronics.

How's everyone doing btw?

Cheers,
Paul

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I CONCUR... -JB

grazianos

You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the tips.

BTW, to answer Pro4Capec's question, I actually measured it out to three degrees.

One more thank you to JayBee and Stephen for prior posts regarding servos. I had a bottom of the line Airtronics servo and just upgraded to a Futaba S9550 based on what I read.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Glad to help -JB

daniz24

BD Battery Tray on SDW

rc_bam226

NICE, did you get it milled to fit? And where?

racer

has anyone tried the SDW kit springs and swaybars on their LCG?

if so, how did the testing go?

Thanks, in advance!

daniz24

Yes, I milled the original battery slot. quite pain in the @ss but pretty satisfied with the result

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Well here it goes.

I finally ran the LCG today for about 7 packs.....
The verdict....
It takes all the good and right things of the SD/Rayspeed and adds the ultra smooth and eay to work on drive line of the BD and SDW and literally made a pearl out of sand...
Things I noticed right off.
First I ran it like this...
5mm ride out all around
6.5mm Droop front
4.5mm Droor rear
yok 450 shock oil all around
rayspeed white front and blue rear springs
Yok SSS shock bodies and the nitrate shock shafts
3degree rear block from my Rayspeed
standard aluminum hinge pin blocks everywhere else
Camber 1 degee all around
Toe in front .5degree
stock camber link possision
Stock steering link possision
Grafite steering knuckles and c hubs.
Front one way
Rear delrin diff. (Champ RC in Hong Kong sells them...Not sure if I like them yet)
Sorex 36r Yok Superthin firms.
120F track temp
Protoform Status 3. Asphalt
Everything else Stock.

here is what I noticed
Steering has improved dramaticly Almost perfect in stock form...I might adjust for more later
On power it accelerates very well and carries alot of speed into the corners.
Off power it handles as it should not much push at all.
Seemed very planted and could handle more speed in corners but my skill keeps me from pushing things...LOL
With very little additional setup changes this car will be dialed....
Conclusion...Worth every penny and makes me glad I went for it.
The LCG moved my BD to the 19T car...Shhhh don't tell it that....
I was faster with the LCG in stock motor by almost .25 sec per lap....
Kinda scares me if I was that slow the last two races with it....eek I hope I can proform well this weekend....LOL
Hope this helps solidify anyone thinking about getting the coversion...
Also not one pebble hurt the open drive train...The track was a bit dirty too.
Stephen <><
Any Questions?????

axel

Whoa ...whoa...whoa mr. shookie what about all that help from the BD?