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Old 02-18-2005, 01:02 AM
  #12496  
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Originally posted by Hebiki

[begin rant]i swear.. with all this #$@%ing rain...its like i live in seattle now. [/end rant]
AMEN
Thats why it is So Cal tommorrow...first time to So Cal for Saturday night racing...I look forward to it...
If you go look for the big fat guy standing next to other big fat guy standing in line for the snack machine...
But serious
Big guy driving a yok in intermediate....

-Stephen <><
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:10 AM
  #12497  
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Default Which describes just.....

If you go look for the big fat guy standing next to other big fat guy standing in line for the snack machine
about every R/c racer I've ever met.
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:56 AM
  #12498  
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Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
AMEN
Thats why it is So Cal tommorrow...first time to So Cal for Saturday night racing...I look forward to it...
If you go look for the big fat guy standing next to other big fat guy standing in line for the snack machine...
But serious
Big guy driving a yok in intermediate....

-Stephen <><
if mother nature was a real person.. id be talking to her RIGHT NOW about this rain!

ill swing by socal on sat to say whats up. im going to steve's first. no way im running my new car at socal on sat. maybe if the CGM arrives today.. ill race it tomorrow
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:59 AM
  #12499  
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Originally posted by lem2
Just asking, did you guys place the small O-ring inside the Suzuki LtWt Cups??? .Its TS not RS my mistake)

I'm also using the Hollow Carbon shaft and its not loose at all
isnt there only ment to be one in one end?
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Old 02-18-2005, 07:21 AM
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Originally posted by agower
isnt there only ment to be one in one end?
Yes, using the o ring. Using the bomber shaft, they make the Yokomo hollow graphite shaft. The problem comes from the inner diameter of the cups. The shaft is loose inside the cup and it wobbles at slow speeds. Perhaps your cups are smaller.
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Old 02-18-2005, 07:45 AM
  #12501  
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little known fact, the rain in seattle, its not true. the problem is all week here there hasn't been a cloud in the sky. come sunday, outdoor race day, it will be nice in the morning, then just has a lay the final pipe down on the track, boom, heres the rain,
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Old 02-18-2005, 07:57 AM
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Originally posted by pops
Yes, using the o ring. Using the bomber shaft, they make the Yokomo hollow graphite shaft. The problem comes from the inner diameter of the cups. The shaft is loose inside the cup and it wobbles at slow speeds. Perhaps your cups are smaller.
Hmmmmm... Now I get it. Yes it does that also, will putting O-rings on each side help? It only does that on slow speeds, hope it will not speed up the wear.

Good Luck to all racing this weekend!!

Last edited by lem2; 02-18-2005 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 02-18-2005, 08:16 AM
  #12503  
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Originally posted by Hebiki
if mother nature was a real person.. id be talking to her RIGHT NOW about this rain!

ill swing by socal on sat to say whats up. im going to steve's first. no way im running my new car at socal on sat. maybe if the CGM arrives today.. ill race it tomorrow
Well I hope to check out your CGM, I will be there from opening to closing since I need to finalize a set-up. I will bring my off road buggy just for fun.
CYA
Stephen <><
everyone calls me Steve or Shookie.....
If you know Alen Hewit I will probably be pitting near him.
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:23 AM
  #12504  
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Originally posted by Bluey_74
What do you guys think of the RIDE bodies?
Its something I havent seen much of, anyone tried them on an SD?
Bluey_74,

I ran the MKII and the Ride TSX. The MKII works great for small to medium size tracks. Rotates around the turns very well and it is good in response. The Ride TSX seems a tad more stable, especially if you put on the GWIII wing from Yokomo. I usually run the MKII at tight SoCal tracks or the Tamiya layout with the traction is up, and the TSX at SoCal if the track is wide open

MKIII offers even more rotation around the turns and higher response (a bit too much for me) but others with the quicker reflex can really take advantage of it Quite a few of expert stock and 19T guys run them locally

Steve Wang
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:18 PM
  #12505  
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i have a ssg sd and bought it from a freind of mine i stripped one of the bevel gears in the diff so i took it apart to rebuild and noticed that he dremmeled the back of the gear that connects to the input shaft. im goin to do the same but is this done to free up the drivetrain. his drivetrain was really free to begain with i dont want to do anything to change that
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:46 PM
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Originally posted by bigragu
i have a ssg sd and bought it from a freind of mine i stripped one of the bevel gears in the diff so i took it apart to rebuild and noticed that he dremmeled the back of the gear that connects to the input shaft. im goin to do the same but is this done to free up the drivetrain. his drivetrain was really free to begain with i dont want to do anything to change that
maybe its me but i dont see any part of the gear that can be dremmeled to reduce friction.

the ssg is very free out of the box.
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:01 PM
  #12507  
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Default Maybe he means.....

Originally posted by rovic
maybe its me but i dont see any part of the gear that can be dremmeled to reduce friction.

the ssg is very free out of the box.
the part where the bearing actually sits?

I've tried various shimming there and when I had only one shim the fit of the bearing was so tight that to get it off I ended up having to use so much force I damaged the sheild.

Perhaps he just means his friend has made it an easier fit?
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:26 PM
  #12508  
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What have you guys done to get the weight down in the CGM? I have ti screws, aluminum input shafts, all graphite parts, Ti bone's and axles, I'm still running a alum drive shaft(run a one way some times). Anyone using the lightened cgm chasiss?
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:30 PM
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I'm also wondering what gear ratio's are you guys are running. for Monster stock motors and for a 10x2 and a Hara 12 single. The track has tight tech infeild and long straight. losts of stop and go turning(well sorta). Thanks
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:33 PM
  #12510  
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Default Well I have to assume......

Originally posted by Rob Phillips
What have you guys done to get the weight down in the CGM? I have ti screws, aluminum input shafts, all graphite parts, Ti bone's and axles, I'm still running a alum drive shaft(run a one way some times). Anyone using the lightened cgm chasiss?
you're running with 3300 batteries or similar because I run mine in 540 stock where you're only allowed 1500mah batteries and I had to add lead weight to mine to make it legal in box stock form.

Anyway about the only thing I can think of that I've never seen suggested for less weight is different rims. 6 spoke weighing less than dish rims for example. Well they feel lighter anyway.
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