Yokomo MR-4TC SD
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
Ok, all you SDW owners out there. Just curious if any of you have tried running your setups from your standard SD's and if so what handling differences did you notice? What changes did you have to make etc and how was the stock setup out of the box?
Thanks,
Blake
Thanks,
Blake
not trying to start any arguements but next time your at a big race (nationals/worlds) spin a couple of factory drivers diffs and/or a diff of any x-ray car. then you will know.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Re: silicone
Originally posted by rovic
. and ive found that the ae black silicone and ae clear silicone to be the best.
. and ive found that the ae black silicone and ae clear silicone to be the best.
Sorry for the rant...
- JB
Tech Master
Quick question....
to save a search....
In the Yokomo springs from softest to hardest it's yellow > silver > pink > bright green right?
Thanks in advance.
In the Yokomo springs from softest to hardest it's yellow > silver > pink > bright green right?
Thanks in advance.
diffs
Ive tried a couple of different greases.
but twhat i found that got me a better performance increase, was Tungsten Crabide diff balls.
They cost a bit more, and are harder on the diff rings, but they roll so much better.
I put these in the Delrin diff halves abd they were magic.
Ive just been using Tamyia black grease, (not sure whats its called) and normal clear -ish suff on the balls themselves.
Its nothing fantastic, but it works!
but twhat i found that got me a better performance increase, was Tungsten Crabide diff balls.
They cost a bit more, and are harder on the diff rings, but they roll so much better.
I put these in the Delrin diff halves abd they were magic.
Ive just been using Tamyia black grease, (not sure whats its called) and normal clear -ish suff on the balls themselves.
Its nothing fantastic, but it works!
In the Yokomo springs from softest to hardest it's yellow > silver > pink > bright green
black > white > blue > yellow > pink > stainless > green > orange (the hardest pro-series)
Tungsten Crabide diff balls
jb; i would actualy use acer stuff before boca, especialy towards bearings, bocas tend to break. save it for the nats.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by rovic
jb; i would actualy use acer stuff before boca, especialy towards bearings, bocas tend to break. save it for the nats.
jb; i would actualy use acer stuff before boca, especialy towards bearings, bocas tend to break. save it for the nats.
- JB
rovic,, speaking of nats, have you tired that red stuff they were giving away at nats in portland. super smooth, so smooth in fact that the diff doesn't work, no matter how tight the diff screw, the diff will slip.
for my diffs i've always used the joel johnson stuff on both the diff balls and thrust bearing, and my diffs are the envy of the track. however after being told by B.E. himself, the best stuff on the market is the a.e. diff lube and black grease, i've been using it, i can't really tell the difference but then again, i'm no b.e..
the sandy-ness that you are feeling is probably because your diff screw is still to tight. when i'm done building a diff i tighten the screw all the way down and then start backing it off until they feel smooth, and then check for tightness (slipping), they have always been tight with no slippage, AND i don't have to readjust after a few laps. also i am using the carbide balls from A.E. think they are around 12 bucks. i have them in all my yoks and my LOSI truck
and for a little trick to help stiffen up the front diff without over tighting the diff screw, i use the trinity purple grease, the stuff made for the rear pod on 1/12 pan cars. it doesn't last for ever but it will make a race day or two. you can also use tamiya, AW grease.
for my diffs i've always used the joel johnson stuff on both the diff balls and thrust bearing, and my diffs are the envy of the track. however after being told by B.E. himself, the best stuff on the market is the a.e. diff lube and black grease, i've been using it, i can't really tell the difference but then again, i'm no b.e..
the sandy-ness that you are feeling is probably because your diff screw is still to tight. when i'm done building a diff i tighten the screw all the way down and then start backing it off until they feel smooth, and then check for tightness (slipping), they have always been tight with no slippage, AND i don't have to readjust after a few laps. also i am using the carbide balls from A.E. think they are around 12 bucks. i have them in all my yoks and my LOSI truck
and for a little trick to help stiffen up the front diff without over tighting the diff screw, i use the trinity purple grease, the stuff made for the rear pod on 1/12 pan cars. it doesn't last for ever but it will make a race day or two. you can also use tamiya, AW grease.
i dont experiment unless ive tested it first, so no, no red stuff for me... its hard enough getting my pit man (jose) to bring my car so i can make my heat, didnt want to worry about my diffs.
ive been doing alot of testing on the diff and im wishing they made some out of metal.
and also i would like to get some masami universals...
when easton speaks i would listen, i do...
ive been doing alot of testing on the diff and im wishing they made some out of metal.
and also i would like to get some masami universals...
when easton speaks i would listen, i do...
oh, i'm not even talking about testing in a car, in your hand, spin spin spin, and your right, jose has been slacking off on his pit-B duties, have you talked to him lately, hes becoming quite the off roader. new BJ4 and everything.
jaybee check your PM's
jaybee check your PM's
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Links & Ball Ends???
The links in the attached photo, look like the links & ball ends that I remember from my old Yokomo YR-4M cars. Are these links & ball ends making a come back? Is there an advantage to using these? Are they still available? If so, where?
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Sorry. The first photo was rather small. Here's a larger version.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
dubro makes them.
Hope this helps,
Stephen <><
Also I believe that person was using them only on there steering as to help releave SLOP.....
Just my observation.
Hope this helps,
Stephen <><
Also I believe that person was using them only on there steering as to help releave SLOP.....
Just my observation.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
They're not dubro's, they're the links from the sway bar assembly. They fit tighter on the ball studs and since they're an open design they work really nice with the Ti ball studs that have the hex in the middle. I believe the SDW kit includes all the ball cups like this design.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
hey Matt,
Thanks again for all your help last couple weeks has made a difference. Oh the ball cups, You got a part number?
Thanks,
Stephen <><
Thanks again for all your help last couple weeks has made a difference. Oh the ball cups, You got a part number?
Thanks,
Stephen <><