Yokomo MR-4TC SD
droop
i found that droop height on the front dictates how the rear end will track.
droop height less than 6mm, tends to over power the rearend and cause the car to spin out (over-responsive frontend)/ especialy on transition corners & low bite tracks
7+ amouth of droop tends to make the rearend planted, caused the car to push some what.
* i run 8mm of droop height and stand up the shock / longer camber links. car is responsive and rearend tracks with no-fishtail...
think of it as a bell curve, to little = no good , moderate = good, to much = no good...
droop height less than 6mm, tends to over power the rearend and cause the car to spin out (over-responsive frontend)/ especialy on transition corners & low bite tracks
7+ amouth of droop tends to make the rearend planted, caused the car to push some what.
* i run 8mm of droop height and stand up the shock / longer camber links. car is responsive and rearend tracks with no-fishtail...
think of it as a bell curve, to little = no good , moderate = good, to much = no good...
http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/
-touring car setup guide(on l-side frame)
-interactive version(top right)
-hover cursor over the setup sheet and a pop-up explanes(cool)
this is a great site that gives the basics on what geom changes do. its based on the tc3 which is great because that car had few geom options and you could feel every change.
-touring car setup guide(on l-side frame)
-interactive version(top right)
-hover cursor over the setup sheet and a pop-up explanes(cool)
this is a great site that gives the basics on what geom changes do. its based on the tc3 which is great because that car had few geom options and you could feel every change.
Tech Regular
Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the front to be more responsive and turn in faster. I think i 1 way would help but i dont have one yet, the track is very tight and small.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Have you tried the inline steering blocks? That should help out a bit
Tech Regular
Ill try them, thanks i forgot i had them in my box!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
I'm getting alot of steering from those
- JB
- JB
Tech Elite
iTrader: (87)
Thanks iamramos and rovic, but that helps but it doesnt answer my question fully!
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
question for Matt Howard,
you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...
what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?
Thanks in advance!
you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...
what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?
Thanks in advance!
Originally posted by Midnight
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower? The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do. So if someone could give me an idea what they do I can try and figure it out my self. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower? The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do. So if someone could give me an idea what they do I can try and figure it out my self. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Originally posted by Midnight
The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do.
The reason Im asking all these questions is b/c the rear end of my car wants to slide out, and I changed the droop, ride height, oil, and just about anything you can think of per another guys info, but I have no idea what these things do.
Sometimes a bind suspension arm can also cause this.
Originally posted by Midnight
Thanks iamramos and rovic, but that helps but it doesnt answer my question fully!
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
Thanks iamramos and rovic, but that helps but it doesnt answer my question fully!
Can anyone tell me which yokomo piston would be the same as the rayspeed 1.1 piston? Also, what the diff between a long rear camber link and a short rear camber link, and if you shorten it on the hubs or on the shock tower? Lastly, what if you mount the ball stud on the upper hole or lower hole on the shock tower?
for the most part, (iamramos) thoery is correct; i have yet to test all the shock holes and camber positions...
longer camber links = stability and smooth=holding line
shorter = aggressive and can be lose (helps initial turn in, but sacrafice mid/exit cornering=push.
my advice; use droop and shock position to find drivable car. then use camber links and oil/pistion to fine tune your set-up...
i use springs (front) to ensure the car doesnt bottom out in the corner, going to soft will cause push and to firm will push.(rear) springs usually the same as the front; +/- spring rate for more steering or rear grip...
hope that helps,
longer camber links = stability and smooth=holding line
shorter = aggressive and can be lose (helps initial turn in, but sacrafice mid/exit cornering=push.
my advice; use droop and shock position to find drivable car. then use camber links and oil/pistion to fine tune your set-up...
i use springs (front) to ensure the car doesnt bottom out in the corner, going to soft will cause push and to firm will push.(rear) springs usually the same as the front; +/- spring rate for more steering or rear grip...
hope that helps,
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by racer
question for Matt Howard,
you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...
what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?
Thanks in advance!
question for Matt Howard,
you mentioned you have trimmed the triangler peice inside the shock. to get more droop etc...
what is the total length do you have the shocks set at?
Thanks in advance!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Question...
hey Matt, when you press down on the front and rear shock towers so your car stays planted, how much 'movement' should your spur gear have? Probably a silly question, but I'm going throughout the car trying to find out where all the slop is to eliminate it...
- JB
- JB
Tech Master
Hi Matt, just wondering if when using shock length for setting droop assuming the same mounting positions are used (or does that even matter) does equal length f/r = equal droop?