PMR

If I were to convert my existing Rayspeed/CGM/SD kit to a SDW what are the necesary parts to I really need to change other than the lower and upper decks, motor mount and aluminum bulkheads.

crzydrifter

iTrader: (1)

is it true that i gota get new shocks for a rayspeed conversion?

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

no, there are ways around it,
cheap or expensive.
1. Get Rayspeed spring cups
2. Use other plastic spring cups from other brands like AE or HPI(pro4 shock end parts tree)- i recommend HPI because you its cheaper and simpler.
3. Use SS shock bodies. You'll need 4.
4. get the new Rayspeed shock towers that work with the stock SSS shock bodies.

SuPerDraGon

iTrader: (1)

I have made a rough calculation on all the available parts for SDW at speedtech.

I think is very much cheaper to get the new kit than conversion.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

the RS-23 towers are the old ones, the RS-30 is the new front and RS-31 is the new rear. I would go with two of the new rear towers, just cut the body mounts off of the one to use on the front. The reason I don't like the new front tower is because the inner camber link positions are too high IMO. I haven't done much testing with the new towers but running the shocks in the second from inside hole (there are 4 in the new rear tower) both front and rear should be a good starting point.

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Any body used this on their CGM's/SD's?
Since TRF Shocks are the easiest to maintain and service.
I have a set lying around and it BLUE

Matt: still waiting for my rear RS tower will follow your advise on that!

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

the yok shocks are just as easy to maintain and service as the tamiya ones. I do like the polished inside body on the tamiya shocks though.

Trevor

I think to get SDW handling and geometry you would need:

• Lower Chassis
• Upper Deck
• Servo Saver Assembly
• Bulkheads
• New arms
• Wide front suspension mounts
• Shock Towers
• Roll Bars
• Motor Mount

That should be everything that is necesarry to get an SDW without the unnecesarry stuff. Also, you may need the battery brace and posts, as im not sure if the normal SD ones will work.
Hope this helps .

Dan Hughes

Just done some quick sums, would cost about $430 without batt plate and universals.

ATLAS COPCO

What part of the car is the part that alows the car to tweak ,can this be stoped dose the centre stifner hold the tweek once it is there
buy the way it is an ssg chassis

rc_bam226

YIKES!!! That's almost the new price of an SDW!!!!!

PMR

There will come a time .....one or two out of the 555 owners will sell the SDW kit as second hand and that will probably have deppreciation on it. Just my $.2

ritchie

well i think i figured out what the "stoppers" are for on the new sdw balls. actually a friend of mine told me, its for a e-clip, to make sure the ball cups don't pop off.

atlas --- as far as tweak, i think almost everyone changes the upper deck screw to a counter sunk screw (without countersinking the deck holes) to help with tweak, also remove the outside (rightside) motor mount screw. problem with the pan head screws is when the chassis tweaks they hold it in place.

hope this helps

adamkerrnz

i have been trying to setup my SSG at the local track lately and i need some setup tips for this car please.
i had a guy at the track (i know him well) telling me that i should put a bit of toe in on the front. at the moment i am using the 3 degree toe block on the rear but i have to try the 2 degree one still. i am running a monster pro stock motor. the car is on foams (black all round).
what sort of camber should i be running front and back and also could someone point me towards a spring and shock oil setup. the track is the tightest in my country with plenty of tight turns and is made of ashphalt which has fairly low grip and is very smooth (no bumpy bits anywhere)

Thanks

sosidge

You should normally run a little toe-in on the front wheels, or run them dead ahead. More front toe-in reduces steering but increases stability.

The 2 degree rear block will give a little less rear grip, which may help on your tight track.

Foam tyres are usually black

Camber should be set for even tyre wear across the foam - normally 1 to 2 degrees negative would be about right. If you need to run a lot more than that, it may indicate that your suspension is too soft.

Spring and oil - for a low grip environment, something like Yokomo yellows all round, with 35wt oil should be a decent starting point. Maybe run a Green spring on the front, with 40wt oil. I've found that if you run the car on a softer spring than a yellow that starts to feel a bit vague, but really it is up to your own feel for the car at the end of the day. I would disconnect the anti-roll bars when the grip is low too.

Personally, I've always struggled with the Yoke around very tight tracks if the grip is down, it doesn't have a lot of steering by nature, it's generally stable.