12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
05-04-2003, 07:23 PM
#1081
Matt Howard
Thanks for the Tips..
Does anyone know the part Number for the Yok spring set ?
Does anyone know the part Number for the Yok spring set ?
05-04-2003, 07:33 PM
#1082
Haven't had a chance to run the car yet on the track...but initial testing in my front street..the is very quiet, fast, transitions extremely well, and corners very fast even with a dual diff set-up.
Other than the teflon bearings I've installed....I've also lubed the diff gears with White Lighting dry wax lubricant... I also used HPI teflon impregnated shock pistons...feel alot smoother than the stock ones.... HPI #5 is equivalent to YOK #3.
now I just gotta paint a new body for it....
Other than the teflon bearings I've installed....I've also lubed the diff gears with White Lighting dry wax lubricant... I also used HPI teflon impregnated shock pistons...feel alot smoother than the stock ones.... HPI #5 is equivalent to YOK #3.
now I just gotta paint a new body for it....
05-04-2003, 07:33 PM
#1083
Tech Fanatic
Some building tips for the car, I've found so far:
•I took out all of the input shaft shims and left the diff ones alone. This gives the gears a pretty good mesh, I thought. Be careful, though, because to much play will hurt the gears over time, or chip them.
•There is no need to shave the gearboxes, unlike the TC3.
•I took one shield off of each of the bearings, cleaned them out w/ motor spray and used the thin Trinity purple oil on them. This helped free the drive train considerably. I saw the grease in the bearing which they include and its as thick as diff lube (Yuck!!)
•The screws which hold in the hinge pins to the hub carrier/arm are impossible to thread in, so I left them off for now. The hinge pin might slide out in a collision, but oh well.
•I tried using strapping tape to hold in the battery, and it didn't work at all, so I switched to the plastic hold down strap.
•I felt that the front shocks were too short when the short ball end was threaded all the way. I tried the long ball end and it was too long
So I took the short one again and just backed it out a little, so the shock is not too short or too long.
•I used a generous amount of servo tape to hold the servo in because I didn't trust the servo mounts included.
•When I mounted the reciever to the bottom plate, the digital servo glitched a lot when applying throttle. I mounted it up on the top plate (like shown on the Yok site) and the glitch went away almost completely.
•I sealed the bottom deck with CA glue.
•The antena tube included is very thin (gauge) so I switched to an associated one. It fits OK but can slide all the way through more easily than the stock one.
•As seen on the Yok site, I mounted the personal trasponder infront of the battery, near the steering, its a tight fit though.
Driving Impressions:
I own both a FT TC3 and now this SD, and here are some things I noticed.
The kit set up works ok on carpet, though it has a lot of steering from running the same spring all around. I tried using the one degree toe block and the car seemed unstable. I tried doing a 8.4 roll out on a monster stock motor and the car was a dog. It was extremely slow. This is the rollout that works well on the tc3, so that was weird. I noticed, though the kit rollout is 5.5!!!! So I'll try that later with a torquier motor, like the P2k2. I started with a 100T 64P spur, and believe it is too large because of how the motor revs. This car has torque. Much better acceleration than the tc3, although this may be because of the too low gear ratio I used. It is a quiet car, not XXXS or Pro 3 quiet but good. The droop screw settings listed do not allow the screw to touch the chassis because the shocks are too short, I don't really know if this is a problem or not.
-Sam F.
•I took out all of the input shaft shims and left the diff ones alone. This gives the gears a pretty good mesh, I thought. Be careful, though, because to much play will hurt the gears over time, or chip them.
•There is no need to shave the gearboxes, unlike the TC3.
•I took one shield off of each of the bearings, cleaned them out w/ motor spray and used the thin Trinity purple oil on them. This helped free the drive train considerably. I saw the grease in the bearing which they include and its as thick as diff lube (Yuck!!)
•The screws which hold in the hinge pins to the hub carrier/arm are impossible to thread in, so I left them off for now. The hinge pin might slide out in a collision, but oh well.
•I tried using strapping tape to hold in the battery, and it didn't work at all, so I switched to the plastic hold down strap.
•I felt that the front shocks were too short when the short ball end was threaded all the way. I tried the long ball end and it was too long
So I took the short one again and just backed it out a little, so the shock is not too short or too long.•I used a generous amount of servo tape to hold the servo in because I didn't trust the servo mounts included.
•When I mounted the reciever to the bottom plate, the digital servo glitched a lot when applying throttle. I mounted it up on the top plate (like shown on the Yok site) and the glitch went away almost completely.
•I sealed the bottom deck with CA glue.
•The antena tube included is very thin (gauge) so I switched to an associated one. It fits OK but can slide all the way through more easily than the stock one.
•As seen on the Yok site, I mounted the personal trasponder infront of the battery, near the steering, its a tight fit though.
Driving Impressions:
I own both a FT TC3 and now this SD, and here are some things I noticed.
The kit set up works ok on carpet, though it has a lot of steering from running the same spring all around. I tried using the one degree toe block and the car seemed unstable. I tried doing a 8.4 roll out on a monster stock motor and the car was a dog. It was extremely slow. This is the rollout that works well on the tc3, so that was weird. I noticed, though the kit rollout is 5.5!!!! So I'll try that later with a torquier motor, like the P2k2. I started with a 100T 64P spur, and believe it is too large because of how the motor revs. This car has torque. Much better acceleration than the tc3, although this may be because of the too low gear ratio I used. It is a quiet car, not XXXS or Pro 3 quiet but good. The droop screw settings listed do not allow the screw to touch the chassis because the shocks are too short, I don't really know if this is a problem or not.
-Sam F.
05-04-2003, 07:44 PM
#1084
did the feel like it had torque steer at all ?
05-04-2003, 10:00 PM
#1085
rc-zombies- funny you should mention about the HPI pistons, I was just going through my old stuff today and found some old ones from my RS4 and RS4 pro days. The holes in the HPI #5 look the same as the Yok #3 but remember that the Yok pistons are smaller in diameter so the oil has quite a bit of "blowby" in the shock. The HPI pistons actually seem to fit better than the Yok ones so you might have to use an HPI #3 or #4 to get the same feel as the Yok #3
05-04-2003, 10:13 PM
#1086
i think that it safe to say that a new breed of shaft dirve cars has arrived, with the introduction of both the SD and the EVO III, we are seeing un-paralleled gains in both drive train efficiency and noise reduction. i think the the reedy race of champions this year will be a great proving ground for these new shaft drive cars here in the states!
sam- you should consider a new handle, at least till you become a cool r/c dad yourself! j/k
peter
sam- you should consider a new handle, at least till you become a cool r/c dad yourself!
j/kpeter
05-05-2003, 02:14 AM
#1090
Built mine up, so here's a few observations from my perspective.
Overall, the car just fell together - no part needed extra trimming or careful adjustment. Yokomo certainly know how to dimension, machine and mould! There's a couple of really minor typo's in the manual, no chance of building the car wrong though. Transmission is very smooth out of the box. I leave the bearings with standard grease.
Downsides/tips (all really minor)
1.) The front caster blocks seem a little soft to me, I had the feeling that the ballstud may strip it, and they do flex more than any other component on the car. Looking forward to graphite versions I think.
2.) Rear width - with the 3deg block, the car is right on 190mm, so I reckon some wheel/tyre/camber combinations could push you too wide at scrutineering. I also felt the 3 deg block was forcing the suspension pins a little too much - Aluminium blocks with a seperate bushing for the pin, like Hotbodies make for the Pro 3, may put on a little less strain.
3.) Anti-roll bar ballcups - seem a bit tight on the wishbone balls - but I'm not using them at present anyway.
4.) Quick release spur gear - not as quick as you may think! Still needs lots of pin-fiddling to get it out, better than a partial stripdown though.
5.) Shimming - I've put 0.13mm on the front axles, and I'll be putting a similar amounts on some on the inboard suspension mounts.
Coolrcdad - I'm surpised you pulled the drivetrain shims out. Also, the right screwdriver for the wishbone screws is a No.1 Phillips - smaller drivers won't give you the torque.
Overall, the car just fell together - no part needed extra trimming or careful adjustment. Yokomo certainly know how to dimension, machine and mould! There's a couple of really minor typo's in the manual, no chance of building the car wrong though. Transmission is very smooth out of the box. I leave the bearings with standard grease.
Downsides/tips (all really minor)
1.) The front caster blocks seem a little soft to me, I had the feeling that the ballstud may strip it, and they do flex more than any other component on the car. Looking forward to graphite versions I think.
2.) Rear width - with the 3deg block, the car is right on 190mm, so I reckon some wheel/tyre/camber combinations could push you too wide at scrutineering. I also felt the 3 deg block was forcing the suspension pins a little too much - Aluminium blocks with a seperate bushing for the pin, like Hotbodies make for the Pro 3, may put on a little less strain.
3.) Anti-roll bar ballcups - seem a bit tight on the wishbone balls - but I'm not using them at present anyway.
4.) Quick release spur gear - not as quick as you may think! Still needs lots of pin-fiddling to get it out, better than a partial stripdown though.
5.) Shimming - I've put 0.13mm on the front axles, and I'll be putting a similar amounts on some on the inboard suspension mounts.
Coolrcdad - I'm surpised you pulled the drivetrain shims out. Also, the right screwdriver for the wishbone screws is a No.1 Phillips - smaller drivers won't give you the torque.
05-05-2003, 08:14 AM
#1091
Originally posted by Matt Howard
rc-zombies- funny you should mention about the HPI pistons, I was just going through my old stuff today and found some old ones from my RS4 and RS4 pro days. The holes in the HPI #5 look the same as the Yok #3 but remember that the Yok pistons are smaller in diameter so the oil has quite a bit of "blowby" in the shock. The HPI pistons actually seem to fit better than the Yok ones so you might have to use an HPI #3 or #4 to get the same feel as the Yok #3
rc-zombies- funny you should mention about the HPI pistons, I was just going through my old stuff today and found some old ones from my RS4 and RS4 pro days. The holes in the HPI #5 look the same as the Yok #3 but remember that the Yok pistons are smaller in diameter so the oil has quite a bit of "blowby" in the shock. The HPI pistons actually seem to fit better than the Yok ones so you might have to use an HPI #3 or #4 to get the same feel as the Yok #3
good think I didn't put oil in the shocks yet...I'll probably try the #4's since I don't have any more #3's.
Waiting for Rayspeed O-rings and bladders to arrive before I fill the shocks...
Also HPI bladders can be used. soft bladders for med-loose tracks and the Firm's for high traction tracks like SWR.
05-05-2003, 08:16 AM
#1092
First run...
Well my first run with the car was brief and more than a little tricky. I got to the track late so I didn't have much pratice time. Through down a pack with my KX-1 to make sure that I had at least one car in good shape and ready to go. Then I took the SD out.
The car accelerates like a bat out of you know where. Which is great as long as you have traction.......which I didn't! The rear end of my car was very loose, causing me to spin out everytime I put the power down coming out of a turn or from a dead stop. I made a tire switch and that helped a lot. Then I took out about 10% of my steering and that helped even more and made the car drivable for racing conditions. I used the car in the last qualifier and put in a time that left me only a half lap off my time with my KX-1. Which is pretty good considering I was defensive driving(no extra parts yet) and the P2K2 I had in the car had a brush glitching or something....damn stock motors.
The oversteer problem was still there though, and by that point the mains were coming up so I had to go back to the KX-1 to run the main.
Unfortunately, I only got to run the car three times at the Saturday evening races and rain, tornadoes and other circumstances prevented me from doing any Sunday racing.
Given a little more time for setup, I could have had the car running better. I just need to get more track time with the car.
The biggest problem I had was getting back used to running and tuning a car with dual diffs. I hadn't run a car with this setup in quite some time.(even though I didn't realise how long it had been) So I've made some minor changes to the diffs and will make a few more changes to the shock oil and droop and go out with a new setup and some better tires and see what I can do.
The car accelerates like a bat out of you know where. Which is great as long as you have traction.......which I didn't! The rear end of my car was very loose, causing me to spin out everytime I put the power down coming out of a turn or from a dead stop. I made a tire switch and that helped a lot. Then I took out about 10% of my steering and that helped even more and made the car drivable for racing conditions. I used the car in the last qualifier and put in a time that left me only a half lap off my time with my KX-1. Which is pretty good considering I was defensive driving(no extra parts yet) and the P2K2 I had in the car had a brush glitching or something....damn stock motors.
The oversteer problem was still there though, and by that point the mains were coming up so I had to go back to the KX-1 to run the main.Unfortunately, I only got to run the car three times at the Saturday evening races and rain, tornadoes and other circumstances prevented me from doing any Sunday racing.
Given a little more time for setup, I could have had the car running better. I just need to get more track time with the car.The biggest problem I had was getting back used to running and tuning a car with dual diffs. I hadn't run a car with this setup in quite some time.(even though I didn't realise how long it had been) So I've made some minor changes to the diffs and will make a few more changes to the shock oil and droop and go out with a new setup and some better tires and see what I can do.
05-05-2003, 08:25 AM
#1093
Oh....and because of a little crystal problem...(found out my extra Futaba crystal doesn't work with my XXL even though my other Futaba crystal does )...I ended up putting my XXtra receiver on the car in place of the XXL. Which isn't bad because it puts more weight on the electronics side and it fights glitches better for me.
So for those who wondered if you can fit the XXtra and GT7 on the car without putting the XXtra up high on the upper deck or something, here a pic.
If your wondering how I access the dials, that little bundle of wires is very flexable. I just squish it down, or pull it up to gain access to either dial. Of course I could have just put the wire bundle on top of the speedo.....but, it looks cleaner this way.
Anyway....heres the pic. It feels good to go completely Tx and Rx crystal free again.
)...I ended up putting my XXtra receiver on the car in place of the XXL. Which isn't bad because it puts more weight on the electronics side and it fights glitches better for me.So for those who wondered if you can fit the XXtra and GT7 on the car without putting the XXtra up high on the upper deck or something, here a pic.
If your wondering how I access the dials, that little bundle of wires is very flexable. I just squish it down, or pull it up to gain access to either dial. Of course I could have just put the wire bundle on top of the speedo.....but, it looks cleaner this way.
Anyway....heres the pic. It feels good to go completely Tx and Rx crystal free again.
05-05-2003, 08:33 AM
#1094
Darkseid: My modification of choice is to flip the server 90 degrees (as somebody earlier on here has done), using a Futaba S9550 digital servo. The case is about half the size of a normal servo, which then leaves room to mount the XXtra and GT7 side by side.
05-05-2003, 08:42 AM
#1095
futureal: I haven't given up on that idea yet. I just wanted to run my electronics mounted in this configuration first to see if re-mounting the servo is even neccesary. So far, for me, I don't think it will be.
I also like having my reciever mounted on its side. I have had glitching problems in the past with the XXtra when its been sitting flat.
I also like having my reciever mounted on its side. I have had glitching problems in the past with the XXtra when its been sitting flat.