Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Joe,

what does "trailing the throttle" mean? Is it keeping partial throttle through turns?

Horatio,

please check your PM box... thanks!

Paul

johnbull

YES.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Joe,

thanks for the explanation.

Then, to your question "But how many corners does one trail the throttle?", I respond: "most".... don't you?

Except some hairpins, most turns require partial throttle IMHO. I'm coming from 8th scale onroad, where partial throttle in turns is a main handling factor. Granted, it's not that preeminent in 10th TC, but still, most turns require some throttle kept through the process, don't they? And with partial throttle (ie mass not only on front), spools don't really help.

Later,
Paul

Horatio

I can only imagine!

Horatio

Are you sticking with your Black SD this winter season? And if the Super Stock class is allowed to race along side stock - which will you choose?

Regards

Horatio

johnbull

Paul.

You are absolutely right about using a trailing throttle on IC cars. I don't have much experience with IC cars, except the real ones, but certainly with electric it is far less critical.

In fact thinking back to our tracks I can think of perhaps 2 corners where we are actually on a trailing throttle for any considerable time.

I just got some more bits for my CGM today, including the lightweight blue motor mount - extortionately expensive, some more graphite diff wheels and graphite rear hubs.

We'll get that weight down eventually.

Mabuchi540

Yet another one of those R/C things I haven't done for over 10 years lol.

I'm changing the plugs on my packs to Deans ultra plugs (god they're small or my eye sight if failing ) anyway I only have two soldering irons to choose from a 90 watt (240 volt) or an 18 watt (12 volt goot) model.

I figure the 90 would be too hot and melt the plug if I'm not quick enough, would the goot be up to the job or should I get another one in the 40-60 watt range?

Thanks in advance.

TeamPink91

I soldered my friends plugs with an iron that was at 800 degrees, and nothing happened to the plugs, so you should be ok with the higher wattage model.

Trevor

Use a smallish tip on the 90 watt iron and you should be alright. Also use a heatsink on the plug as well. I usually have another set of pliers clamped on the opposite side of the plastic on the metal piece I'm soldering to, if you know what I mean. Just make sure everything is tinned good and the iron's hot enough and then get in and out. If you stuff up first time let the plug cool and then go again. And don't forget to put the heatshrink on the wire before you solder, I do that too often

melvinsarmy

I recently bought a Yokomo SD SSG. I love this car, it seems much nicer and better designed than the TC3 I used to race. I have one major problem. Under hard acceleration, the rear end always breaks loose and spins the car.

I've tryed about everything I can think of to fix it. I'm running HPI 27 slick tires with green inserts on smooth blacktop parking lots. All the other cars I run against use the same compound and inserts. It's been run only 3 times, in hot, cool and then perfect weather. The car has a Novak SS Brushless and is geared for a 10 turn motor, according to the Yok instructions. I believe that's aroun 8.2 or so. The car was set up according to the instructions. Since then I have put softer springs in the rear, I believe they are orange. I have loosened both diffs. Then, tightened the front diff up considerably. I have moved the rear shocks out, in, up and down. Adjusted the spring rate. Changed the rear hinge pin carrier. I've taken off the rear sway bar. Taken off the front and put it back on again. I've removed the lower brace that runs below the drive shaft. I think I've done everything I can, but the rear end still breaks free. I'm running the same motor and tires as my friends who are running Tamiya 414's, and one Yok MR4TC with the tub chassis. None of which have this problem, or know why I do.

There is no binding anywhere. The car will roll on a slight incline, and both diffs spin freely. I'm totally lost. I've never had this problem in any car other than a pan car in my 18 years of RC experience. It's very frustrating, I need some help bad. I don't want to sell this car, I love it, but if I can't punch the gas without the rear end breaking loose, there is no sense in keeping it. Please give me any help or suggestions. Thanks.

caveman

Orange springs are hardest in yokomo's line, you run the kit's springs up front and orange springs at the rear? No wonder you have oversteer.Try put orange or green springs in the front and kit's silver springs at the back. Also check the chassis tweak, SSG is sensitive to that.

daniz24

Main shaft binding (the graphite one) can also cause this problem too...

melvinsarmy

They're not Yokomo springs. They're either AE or Tamiya, I had them in my parts box. They are softer than the stock springs, I do know that for sure. The car spun with the kit springs too.

I don't see any tweak in the chassis.

The shaft in mine is aluminum. The car rolls freely, I can't find any binding. It rolls easier than any car I've ever owned.

Trevor

You could increase rear toe, and loosen your front diff. Adjust droop so you are getting enough weight transfer to the back of the car under power. There is chance that your springs are too soft on the rear. Try yokomo green on the front and yellow rear. And I've never run a novak brushless, but I believe they have a lot of torque and are usually gearing around 7.0, so maybe the final drive is allowing wheelspin? Hope this helps.

melvinsarmy

Thanks Trevor, I'll try your suggestions. You might be right about the gear ratio. My friend even said he thought my car had a ton of torque. Hopefully it's just a matter of too much power. I'll try the other suggestions tomorrow too.