12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
08-04-2004, 08:04 AM
#9196
Ok, got the SSG converted to GGM but I can't seem to find a good. neutral handling set-up sheet... Kinda like how you'd set the car up if you just built the CGM... Need somewhere to start... I'm running ball diffs front and rear...
08-04-2004, 01:17 PM
#9197
From what Matt said, it seemed that SSG and CGM setups were not that different... at least it was my understanding. Good luck!
btw folks... I finally ordered a full graphite parts set for my SSD (arms, hubs, knuckles, tranny cases)... I figured out it was a better solution for my needs than starting back from scratch with a brand new CGM, now that I have the rigidity issues solved... I'll let you know how it goes and how differently it handles!
Later,
Paul
btw folks... I finally ordered a full graphite parts set for my SSD (arms, hubs, knuckles, tranny cases)... I figured out it was a better solution for my needs than starting back from scratch with a brand new CGM, now that I have the rigidity issues solved... I'll let you know how it goes and how differently it handles!
Later,
Paul
08-05-2004, 12:48 AM
#9198
Spool Question
a spool is on the way 
thru a friend who will get it from speedtech!
My question is?
Has anybody tried using pin cushion? or replacing the stock ones with IRS pin cushions?
Thanks for any input!
Peace and Happy Racing!
thru a friend who will get it from speedtech!My question is?
Has anybody tried using pin cushion? or replacing the stock ones with IRS pin cushions?
Thanks for any input!
Peace and Happy Racing!
08-05-2004, 12:56 AM
#9199
Originally posted by ritchie
my turn, when adding spacers under the hinge pin mounts (both ends of the pin. does that raise or lower the roll center. and under what conditions do you want to do this
my turn, when adding spacers under the hinge pin mounts (both ends of the pin. does that raise or lower the roll center. and under what conditions do you want to do this
08-05-2004, 01:09 AM
#9200
Re: Spool Question
Originally posted by lem2
Has anybody tried using pin cushion? or replacing the stock ones with IRS pin cushions?
Has anybody tried using pin cushion? or replacing the stock ones with IRS pin cushions?
Later
Paul
08-05-2004, 01:12 AM
#9201
Paul
thanks, hopefully the Tamiya Anti-wear grease will help.
Peace and Happy Racing!
Peace and Happy Racing!
08-05-2004, 01:34 AM
#9202
Guest
Re: Re: Spool Question
Originally posted by Lonestar
I suggested blades a while ago, but couldn't try it... they don't fit in metal outdrives. However I think JohnBull tried Corally blades on the plastic diff, and after some dremeling, it seemed to work great... personnally I don't see that much wear on plastic outdrives... A solution for metal outdrives (or spool) doesnt exist yet... oh well...
Later
Paul
I suggested blades a while ago, but couldn't try it... they don't fit in metal outdrives. However I think JohnBull tried Corally blades on the plastic diff, and after some dremeling, it seemed to work great... personnally I don't see that much wear on plastic outdrives... A solution for metal outdrives (or spool) doesnt exist yet... oh well...
Later
Paul
Works great !Bryan
08-05-2004, 01:55 AM
#9203
Re: Re: Re: Spool Question
Originally posted by tornado
John had recomended RC Labs Blades to me. Works great !
Bryan
John had recomended RC Labs Blades to me.
Works great !Bryan
08-05-2004, 03:35 AM
#9204
As I recall, Johnbull uses Corally blades and I used RC Lab blades - both types work very well, but RC Lab ones need a little fettling.
With either type, you will obviously still need to dremmel the outdrive slot to match the thickness of the blade. This has to be done precisely.
The diff bolts will also need to be trimmed - the exact length is stated on my original post.
With either type, you will obviously still need to dremmel the outdrive slot to match the thickness of the blade. This has to be done precisely.
The diff bolts will also need to be trimmed - the exact length is stated on my original post.
08-05-2004, 03:42 AM
#9205
Read all about the blade mod on page 218.
Links are included.
Links are included.
08-05-2004, 04:57 AM
#9206
Lem2
I actually use Tamiya Anti-wear grease on my one-way outdrives with Square Ti bones, and it DOES seem to help... it's no miracle solution though.
btw, anybody knows the part number one one-way outdrives for the SD? I'm always worried about loosing one on a race...
Thanks,
Paul
I actually use Tamiya Anti-wear grease on my one-way outdrives with Square Ti bones, and it DOES seem to help... it's no miracle solution though.
btw, anybody knows the part number one one-way outdrives for the SD? I'm always worried about loosing one on a race...
Thanks,
Paul
08-05-2004, 12:27 PM
#9207
Tech Regular
suspesion problem
hi
ive got a weird shock problem on my car,
first of all if have fitted rear shock tower to the front
on the front ive got associated gold springs with 45 weight oil and piston 3, most upright on the higher line of holes on shock tower and 2nd from the inside on wishbone
at the rear ive got associated silver spirngs with 35 weigh toil and piston 3, most laydown on lower row of holes on shock tower and furthest out on wishbone.
the problem is that with the shocks on the car and then pushing the front and raer down seperatly that the rear feels stiffer than the front when it shouldnt? is it the way that i have filled the shocks?
A gower
ive got a weird shock problem on my car,
first of all if have fitted rear shock tower to the front
on the front ive got associated gold springs with 45 weight oil and piston 3, most upright on the higher line of holes on shock tower and 2nd from the inside on wishbone
at the rear ive got associated silver spirngs with 35 weigh toil and piston 3, most laydown on lower row of holes on shock tower and furthest out on wishbone.
the problem is that with the shocks on the car and then pushing the front and raer down seperatly that the rear feels stiffer than the front when it shouldnt? is it the way that i have filled the shocks?
A gower
08-05-2004, 01:05 PM
#9208
It feels stiffer because the shock is mounted further out on the wishbone.
So the spring, although softer in itself, is being compressed more for the same amount of wheel travel - it is a stiffer "wheel rate" than at the front.
Nothing is wrong.
So the spring, although softer in itself, is being compressed more for the same amount of wheel travel - it is a stiffer "wheel rate" than at the front.
Nothing is wrong.
08-05-2004, 04:27 PM
#9209
Right what he said... 
That is why we usually run a stiffer spring up front than the rear. It's because the mounting points are more inward up front than the rear. It's all a leverage game.
That is why we usually run a stiffer spring up front than the rear. It's because the mounting points are more inward up front than the rear. It's all a leverage game.
08-05-2004, 07:27 PM
#9210
Guest
Originally posted by Horatio
As I recall, Johnbull uses Corally blades and I used RC Lab blades - both types work very well, but RC Lab ones need a little fettling.
With either type, you will obviously still need to dremmel the outdrive slot to match the thickness of the blade. This has to be done precisely.
The diff bolts will also need to be trimmed - the exact length is stated on my original post.
As I recall, Johnbull uses Corally blades and I used RC Lab blades - both types work very well, but RC Lab ones need a little fettling.
With either type, you will obviously still need to dremmel the outdrive slot to match the thickness of the blade. This has to be done precisely.
The diff bolts will also need to be trimmed - the exact length is stated on my original post.
sorry. John did mentioned 'bout the Corally blades on the yoks and Corraly Assasin CVD with blades on the TC3 . Oh Lem...since you're in Philippines it would be closer for you to order those RC Lab's blades from Malaysia's distributor.....Aaron Khoo and his e-mail addy :-> [email protected] and it costs 'bout RM12.00 I think.
Bryan