ritchie

i saw quite a few cars with those on at the nats last weekend. wish i would have had a couple on my car when it suddenly turned left and hit the wall while going around a right hand sweeper.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

I saw it. I don't glitch but I will remember this if I have such a problem. I know you're coming up for TCS Sunday but Sept. 12 is our big Charity Race. I'd like to see your Yokomo this year.

Tek Nickal

I keep breaking my front CVDs are there dogbones I can buy? or some way that I can stop it from breaking?

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Isaac, do you have any details on it? The charity race that is? Is it the same parking lot that the TCS will be held? My SD doesn't do too well on parkling lots. At least not right now. It's mostly setup for smooth asphalt tracks. I'd have to run over to Sams club parking lot for a basic setup. It's about the same as Laurel. Keep me informed. I'll be doin the TCS this weekend. Then the NORRCA Nats next month in Atlanta. I'll more than likely use my 415 for that unless if my Evo IV comes in before hand. Not that I won't race my SD anymore. But my SD is mainly for stock class. And that's what we run at my local track. The 415 is for Mod, 19t, and TCS races.. Anyways, you can tell me all about it when I show up this weekend....

AzNDRAGster, have you tried the Yokomo hardened universal set?

tornado

Kinwald put just one on the esc wires to the receiver. It seem to work for him. There are no one fixed solution to cure glitching. Cetain tracks a more prone to it and some don't. So.....its a process of elimination.

Bryan

johnbull

I think the greatest inducer of glithing is the orientation of electrics.

Here are a few hints I have learnt from my experience.

Always use at least 2 capacitors on your motors. I also use a schottky diode.

Locate your speedo as close to the motor as possible and keep the wires as short as possible.

Locate your receiver as far from the speedo and the speedo wires as possible.

Make sure your batt and motor wires are as far from your receiver and aerial as possible.

Make sure your aerial isn't chaffed or rubbing on any carbon fibre or graphite chassis bits.

Keep everything spotless at all times.

Now I know that with today's cars space is very limited. Play around as best you can till you find the best location for all electrical components.

Here's a pic of my layout.

Good luck.

OHBRAD

iTrader: (19)

can anyone tell me what the STD set up for droop front and rear is, i seem to have misplaced the sheet i got with the kit telling me the std set up.

regards brad

johnbull

IF you start with 5 up front and 3 at the rear you won't be far wrong.

Those are measurements on the droop gauge incidentally.

OHBRAD

iTrader: (19)

THANX JOHN, IS THIS THE STD SET UP, ALSO DO YOU MEASURE DROOP WITH THE SPINGS ON AND LOAD OR WITH OUT

REGRDS BRAD

pops

iTrader: (1)

I suggest you get the new larger front bumper and replace the front universals with the Yoke Hardened Universals from the MR4-TC. As said before you will need to grind down the ball on each front universal, the rear are a perfect fit. I have only seen one break, and if you do bend them you can take them out and straighten them with a hammer.

kt racing

Brad,
i measure it with the springs on that way they are forcing the arms against the stop points.
keith

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

http://www.hobbyworks.com/default.cf...&hs=Home&ID=69

Tek Nickal

nope, but do you have the part #?

pops

iTrader: (1)

ZS-010FH

Tek Nickal

WOW! Those are expensive at $45.00.