tornado

I too have a TC3 and thats why I prefer the CGM. I have buddies ran the SSG and the RS and when they got their hands on my CGM they're convinced and ordered either the conversion kit or the car kit itself... the only complain is the weight. They used to add weight to make it legal but with the CGM they got to find ways to make it lighter without sacrificing the car's reliability.

When you guys mentioned ur car's weight...do you include the body shell too ?

Tek Nickal

Use the longer shock ends or twist the shock ends out about 1-2 mm or so to get the desired droop. BTW, its 4mm of droop, not degrees.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Opps, I and company over and had to type fast....

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Yeah its usually Stldedlst thats the one we need to tell to settle down! j/k clint!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

that hurts daddy when you say that........

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Howdy folks

where would you start for getting more onpower steering out of tight turns, but from the front end, not the rear one???

Please don't say "more caster", as I don't have the parts for now

Thanks much
later
Paul

ritchie

my cgm only weighs 54.2 ounces, 53 is legal, its stock except for ssg ti screw set and that is with the body, if you have the parts, weigh different brand servo's, metal gear servo vs. plastic gear. different recievers weigh different also, same for sp control, different battery cell types weigh different also, easy way to lose the extra weight. lighten up on the paint job and decals

Mabuchi540

Ok I've just got my CGM and as I was building the diffs I was thinking oh shite I don't have the spares for a rebuild ....(I always like to have enough parts for at least one rebuild before I start).

Anyway the instructions just refer to the parts as diff balls and thrust balls but not the actual size so I got to wondering are these two ball sizes the same as the 1/16th and 3/32 balls I have left over from when I had the Losi JRx2 as I have about 1000 of each I got in bulk way back when?

Oh and apart from diff rings and the above mentioned ball question what else would I need for a rebuild?


Cheers in advance.

kt racing

Paul,
there are many ways to gain front steering. the first thing to do is make sure that all of your radio settings are correct and that the car turns equally to both sides. Droop can help with onpower steering. the more droop the car has in the front the more on power steering you have. You can also soften the front spring and stiffen the rear springs. You can take some rear toe out as well. the negative caster really helps you getting into the corner as well. I guess lastly if your still having problems you can move your roll center. the longer and lower the link the more traction this makes the car have lots of roll the car not as responsive. The higher and shorter the link the less traction. this will make the car more responsive and more reactive as well. it might be just as simple as leaning the front shock down and hole and rasing the rear shocks a hole.
Hope that helps.

shortygy

For a good diff rebuild you will need rings, diff balls, and thrust balls and thrust washers. Yes the balls you have will work. The only thing is that you cant buy the thrust washers seperatly ( I dont think anyways...) the only other thing you may want to replace is the outdrives if they are worn out or the diff ring gear if it is worn out, but these parts should last for along time.

You can check out the sd/CGM parts list on my site under setups

www.yokomo.tk

kt racing

MABUCHI,
On the diff ball thing. Acer bearings makes ceramic diff balls and thrust balls for the car. they will last a lot longer than any steel ones you put in not to mention they are super smooth. Also speedtech sells derin out drives for the yok. I have been running them for about a year now and haven't had one problem. Not to mention they are a little lighter.
But to answer you question. for extra parts diff rings, extra out drive, and possible a diff bolt and nut. I have seen a few people break the diff bolts, but mostly due to overtightening them.
keith

sosidge

Why don't you want to adjust the rear end? It's much easier to get more steering by adjusting the back, because that's where most of the weight is.

Front adjustments would be a softer spring/damper, more droop, maybe a little more negative camber, lower roll centre, lighter anti-roll bar...

Normally though I decrease the rear toe or stiffen the rear spring/damper to get more on-power steering.

Mabuchi540

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

reducing droop (higher # on the gauge) will give you more onpower steering because the weight of the car will not be transfering to the rear as much on power, keeping more weight over the front tires.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

All,

thanks a lot for feedback and all the advice. Basically, what's happening is that I've had some more time for practicing these days, so I can now run consistent turns in the same couple of tenths for the full 5mns. I'm no Atsushi Hara, but when he/spashett/groskamp came to our track to practice (that's where the V2 R&D was performed) a few months ago, they ran between 10.4's and 10.7's, and I'm in the 11.2's to 11.5's, with waaaaay less watts, and harder tires and inserts (I PAY for my stuff, they don't ). So I know I'm on the right path... Still, some of the faster, experienced hotshots catch up in the slower track parts, mostly because I'm used to a smooth, slightly understeering car, in order to drive a full 5mn without mistakes. Coming from 8th scale onroad sure doesn't help!

Now I can practice more, I gotta get used to a car with more steering... off-power I'm okay (moving mass to the back with the wheelbase works a treat), and I don't need more... really (REALLY). On-power is a little different... I can't degrade the rear too bad, because the car is already making some strange things in the chicanes sometimes when I slow down too hard. I'd like to work on the front instead, where there's still work to be performed IMHO.

So that's the whole story... basically, now I can drive almost properly an easy car, I gotta learn to be faster with a twitchier car

kt racing (Kraig , if I' not mistaken ) the radio is setup properly... I'll try some of the stuff you mentioned. If by more front droop, you mean less front up-travel, then I agree... otherwise I think more front droop (which too me means more downtravel) means less on power steering, because it favorizes (sp?) mass transfer under acceleration... or does it?

sosidge: thanks for the tips! no roll bars on the car so far... it makes the car "hover" over the track (rubber on carpet)... so I'm not using them at all... I try to make the weak end stronger for now, but I guess sooner or later I'll have to play with the strong end to make it worse in order to balance the whole thing... but I'd like not to loose motricity (I don't have enough watts to dissipate them in spinning wheels lol)

Matt: that sounds like the explanation of droop that I knew of... I'll keep experimenting with that.

Thanks all for your feedback... going to the track again this evening, will let you know... and then we're going go-karting with my buddies... woo-hooo! Being done with school is cool

later and thanks
Paul