Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#8761
Guest
Originally posted by Horatio
And the Rayspeed looks faster!!
And the Rayspeed looks faster!!
#8762
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Originally posted by tornado
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
however, I'm sure the CGM is an excellent car. Actually I'm even thinking about buying one... I don't know if it'll be to "graphitise" my SSG or to try it as such, but I might buy a CGM kit in the next few weeks... the problem is, I'm the only guy in my area to run a yokomo any more, so I'm beginning to feel alone...
Later
Paul
#8763
Originally posted by Lonestar
Chris
Tweaking double-deck cars: Here's a tip to minimize tweak intake (or even suppress it): use countersunk screws on the top deck, without countersinking the deck itself. The screws then "Self-center" and put a huge pressure on the deck, preventing it to move sideways... et voila, no more tweak. I've used this method for a few months now, and it works great. No more funny handling after a crash. The first few crashes after I did this mod, I used to pull out the car and check for tweak on the tweak board, and there was none... I don't even check anymore!
Droop screws: adjusting schock length works... but I still think droop screws are easier to use... When you change shock tower locations, for instance, you have to think it all over again.
Ackerman: can someone please discuss the influence of ackerman (the difference between steering wheels angle) on handling? I've never really understood it... thanks!
Later yall
Paul
Chris
Tweaking double-deck cars: Here's a tip to minimize tweak intake (or even suppress it): use countersunk screws on the top deck, without countersinking the deck itself. The screws then "Self-center" and put a huge pressure on the deck, preventing it to move sideways... et voila, no more tweak. I've used this method for a few months now, and it works great. No more funny handling after a crash. The first few crashes after I did this mod, I used to pull out the car and check for tweak on the tweak board, and there was none... I don't even check anymore!
Droop screws: adjusting schock length works... but I still think droop screws are easier to use... When you change shock tower locations, for instance, you have to think it all over again.
Ackerman: can someone please discuss the influence of ackerman (the difference between steering wheels angle) on handling? I've never really understood it... thanks!
Later yall
Paul
Akerman: By reducing akerman, you can make your steering have more intial bite and feel more aggressive. Personally I like the more progressive feel I get when I use a decent amount of akerman. It can be adjusted by the position of the track rods on the steering arms, the length of the track rods, the length of the centre track rods, the type of steering arms used (I use MR4 alloy steering arms -) and to some extent by using more or less toe-in/toe-out.
Hope this helps. See - I don't always whinge
#8764
Originally posted by tornado
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
Rayspeed eh......hmmmmm...... I still prefer the more rigid CGM chassis
The example I have I bought from Randman who now drives Losi XXX - S. He actually doubled the topdeck and beleive me, it's plenty stiff!! I have a hard job imagining that the car could possibly flex at all on the track, though I've heard randman himself say that it's not quite as stiff as a CGM. But with the double top deck, I doubt there's much in it - but it's nice and light and looks the 'mutt's nuts' - ideal for stock class racing.
#8765
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
front hardend universals
Do I need to grind the end of the dogbone if I'm not running a one-way diff? Also, what tool is everyone using to grind down the hardend steel?
I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
#8766
Tech Regular
Tweak is not an issue for me, the car can take small crash without tweaking , only some very big crash may cause problem, but that doesn't happen too often. So the obvious question is(for me) flexable chassis vs stiff chassis on outdoor asphalt. The RS chassis has some flex, which generates more grip and make the car more forgiving. TC3(my old car)is very stiff, much like CGM, and I am faster with my RS SD, that 's why I'm hesitate to change to CGM. Any suggestions will be wellcome & thanks.
#8767
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Re: front hardend universals
Originally posted by Geppetto
Do I need to grind the end of the dogbone if I'm not running a one-way diff? Also, what tool is everyone using to grind down the hardend steel?
I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
Do I need to grind the end of the dogbone if I'm not running a one-way diff? Also, what tool is everyone using to grind down the hardend steel?
I just bought a set of hardned universals from SpeedTech R/C, although I haven't installed them yet. I guess I've been lucky... I've broken at least 4 front arms, but my universals haven't bent yet.
#8768
trigga!
trigger is a punk shit talker.
#8769
Hi friends. greetings from Malta.
CHRIS Tossolini.
Thanks first of all for all your help. The Yoke fraternity here has all been helpful - I have been contributing to RCtech for 4 or 5 years now. You get the odd....odd ball but in general the chat is friendly and helpful.
Best of luck with your new team. I hear it's Corally. That's great news. My company is the Corally distributor in Malta. My son Josh has won 6 National championships using Corally motors and cells exclusively in his TC3s, and we have excellent feedback and support from Constant and the boys - and girls at the factory in Holland. Perhaps we will cross paths again.
I have always used Corally motors and cells on my Yokes.
The Assassin is a fabulous piece of kit and beautifully engineered. I'm sure you will manage to wind it up to go quicker than most - if your success with Yokes is anything to go by.
AE SHOCKS AND SPRINGS>
I have used AE shocks and retainers on my Yokes all along. I have even used complete AE shocks though I presently have a set of Corally Assassin shocks fitted to my Rayspeed SD - with AE green springs all round.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
CHRIS Tossolini.
Thanks first of all for all your help. The Yoke fraternity here has all been helpful - I have been contributing to RCtech for 4 or 5 years now. You get the odd....odd ball but in general the chat is friendly and helpful.
Best of luck with your new team. I hear it's Corally. That's great news. My company is the Corally distributor in Malta. My son Josh has won 6 National championships using Corally motors and cells exclusively in his TC3s, and we have excellent feedback and support from Constant and the boys - and girls at the factory in Holland. Perhaps we will cross paths again.
I have always used Corally motors and cells on my Yokes.
The Assassin is a fabulous piece of kit and beautifully engineered. I'm sure you will manage to wind it up to go quicker than most - if your success with Yokes is anything to go by.
AE SHOCKS AND SPRINGS>
I have used AE shocks and retainers on my Yokes all along. I have even used complete AE shocks though I presently have a set of Corally Assassin shocks fitted to my Rayspeed SD - with AE green springs all round.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
#8770
Originally posted by caveman
Tweak is not an issue for me, the car can take small crash without tweaking , only some very big crash may cause problem, but that doesn't happen too often. So the obvious question is(for me) flexable chassis vs stiff chassis on outdoor asphalt. The RS chassis has some flex, which generates more grip and make the car more forgiving. TC3(my old car)is very stiff, much like CGM, and I am faster with my RS SD, that 's why I'm hesitate to change to CGM. Any suggestions will be wellcome & thanks.
Tweak is not an issue for me, the car can take small crash without tweaking , only some very big crash may cause problem, but that doesn't happen too often. So the obvious question is(for me) flexable chassis vs stiff chassis on outdoor asphalt. The RS chassis has some flex, which generates more grip and make the car more forgiving. TC3(my old car)is very stiff, much like CGM, and I am faster with my RS SD, that 's why I'm hesitate to change to CGM. Any suggestions will be wellcome & thanks.
As to setup, I've decided to trust the Yok engineers and stick w/ the CGM rather than go back to the SSG. Masami was very fast at pre-worlds with the CGM (2nd place ) and so the key to setting it up properly really lies in taking the time to learn how to setup the car and test different settings.
#8772
hey tj and chris, go find a forty or something you alchoholics
Trigger,
Why don't you sign your emails or use your real name as your handle?
Thats pretty sad on your part that you cant back up your words.
Trigger aka the horse of roy rogers or is that silver....no its trigger..thats funny...haha...i think silver is the lonerangers horse.
My advice to you is to quit talking shit on people, it really solves nothing. If you have a problem with someone let them know to that persons face and resolve the problem. Maybe you will fight, maybe you will resolve your problems or whatever conflict of interest you might have.whatever at least you will have degnity and respect at the least.
i'm not trying to hate over some rc cars.
That was intense, i need a drink,
TJ
Why don't you sign your emails or use your real name as your handle?
Thats pretty sad on your part that you cant back up your words.
Trigger aka the horse of roy rogers or is that silver....no its trigger..thats funny...haha...i think silver is the lonerangers horse.
My advice to you is to quit talking shit on people, it really solves nothing. If you have a problem with someone let them know to that persons face and resolve the problem. Maybe you will fight, maybe you will resolve your problems or whatever conflict of interest you might have.whatever at least you will have degnity and respect at the least.
i'm not trying to hate over some rc cars.
That was intense, i need a drink,
TJ
#8775
I am having problems getting 4 degrees of droop in the rear of my car. Any suggestions would help?