Well, the RC Lab blades are now fitted on my car. There weren't too many problems getting the job done and the result is well worth the effort. It vastly reduces the slop in the transmission and hopefully should reduce wear to virtually nothing.
First off, after removing the diffs & driveshafts, the blades can be popped on to the ends of the shafts. The holes in the blades are a tight fit, so use a needle file to open them out first. Also, to prevent breaking the blades before you've even started and to make them more pliable, drop them into boiling water prior to fitting. They can be fitted just with the fingers.
The diff outs then need to be opened up to fit the blade. Overall increase in width is .8mm - .4mm per side of each diff out. I used a dremmel, but a file would probably have been safer. The sanding tool I used was precisely the same diameter as the thickness of the blade
Slots can then be cleaned up with wet n dry.
Next, the diff screws have to be trimmed down to precisely 25.5mm - this measurement includes the cap head of the screw. If it is left at it's original length, the thread where it comes through on the lock nut side will foul the blade.
At this point, it's worth opening out the blue alloy rings that fit over the diff outs. The way I did mine was just to machine in a small notch at opposite sides to allow easier fitting and future removal of the driveshafts at race meetings. Don't over do it otherwise the rings will snap.
One more thing - the blades in the front sit more towards the outside of the diff outs, and they may catch the alloy rings as they turn through their full range of motion. Therefore the ends of the RC Lab C shaped blades need to be filed back and the outer most corner chamfered to allow clearance of the alloy rings - a 5 minute job - but a job none-the-less.
Hope this helps