Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#6001
TKG 27: Yes, front axle, rear axle and rear bone are the same so for a perfect fit you should have these parts:
front: MR4TC front axle + rear bone
rear: MR4TC rear axle + rear bone
The main problem I would guess is to find any shop that has these parts. I have not found a shop that has the aluminium MIP's in stock but maybe someone do have the shiny MIP's...
Never tried front bones on the SD so cannot answer that.
front: MR4TC front axle + rear bone
rear: MR4TC rear axle + rear bone
The main problem I would guess is to find any shop that has these parts. I have not found a shop that has the aluminium MIP's in stock but maybe someone do have the shiny MIP's...
Never tried front bones on the SD so cannot answer that.
#6002
Tech Rookie
Yes that is the correct part number.I just did the conversion friday night for the same reasons.
#6003
Tech Addict
Originally posted by LeoChan
About Factory tips :
why need use 2.5 gear ratio ,
because used 2.5 gear ratio can easy have more Torque,
easy to high speed & motor temp lower
push up motor not need bester battery to fast !
About Factory tips :
why need use 2.5 gear ratio ,
because used 2.5 gear ratio can easy have more Torque,
easy to high speed & motor temp lower
push up motor not need bester battery to fast !
Torque on the wheels only depends on the overall ratio and NOTHING else, maybe it changes the efficiency, but I'm sure the difference won't be noticeable.
#6004
Tech Regular
Originally posted by icon
TC3 A arms are not any better . Then again, AE and Yokomo are associated with one another (especially the case in japan where yokomo carries AE products in its catalog).
hope they release more info on the car. b day coming up for me :-D
TC3 A arms are not any better . Then again, AE and Yokomo are associated with one another (especially the case in japan where yokomo carries AE products in its catalog).
hope they release more info on the car. b day coming up for me :-D
#6005
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
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Hey Chris are your hands broke need to talk to you about the birds
#6007
Registered User
Help with shock
I use long shock body. The shaft is kinda short. Is that correct length? See pic.
#6009
Registered User
Thanks Randman.
#6011
Registered User
About Rayspeed shock piston, one side have ditch. Is that face up or down?
#6012
Hello,
I did the 2 save-servo modification; before, it was largely more on the left side than on the right side, now, there's the same (little) amount of slop on both side.
My car is much more precise on the corner + straight line and when the car is "trimmed", there no need to touch it again...
Thank you vtl1180ny
But I had my share of bad luck this week-end
As Paul "Lonestar", I broke my first rear arm (after 7 seconds on the 1st qualification...), but that was on a crash that was really bad
On the 2nd qualifs, I lost one king pin in the middle of the session, but was able to finish and not bad. Not the 1st time I lost one, so I decided to glue it No more problem...
3rd qualif, I lost one front body clip, so every 4-5 lap, the body was going out (I used little clip and should have used bigger clip...)
So 7th on B final, I managed, 4th, 3rd and 6th, finally 14th overall, not bad considering my 1st on modified class.
Next time, I should spend a little more on preparation, because not having one good run during qualification is not a way to go
I did the 2 save-servo modification; before, it was largely more on the left side than on the right side, now, there's the same (little) amount of slop on both side.
My car is much more precise on the corner + straight line and when the car is "trimmed", there no need to touch it again...
Thank you vtl1180ny
But I had my share of bad luck this week-end
As Paul "Lonestar", I broke my first rear arm (after 7 seconds on the 1st qualification...), but that was on a crash that was really bad
On the 2nd qualifs, I lost one king pin in the middle of the session, but was able to finish and not bad. Not the 1st time I lost one, so I decided to glue it No more problem...
3rd qualif, I lost one front body clip, so every 4-5 lap, the body was going out (I used little clip and should have used bigger clip...)
So 7th on B final, I managed, 4th, 3rd and 6th, finally 14th overall, not bad considering my 1st on modified class.
Next time, I should spend a little more on preparation, because not having one good run during qualification is not a way to go
#6013
Regarding 2.5 internal ratio - what does it do
Hahaha, how right you are ;o)
To get this into perspective, dropping the pinion by 1 or 2 teeth on a standard 2.353 will have exactly the same effect on overall gearing as going to all the trouble and converting to a 2.5 internal ratio would. It does seem a little pointless.
Perhaps if you race low wind mod classes on very tight circuits where you need to run 1:8 - 1:9 overall ratios and you don't own any pinions smaller than 21teeth, perhaps then it might seem like a good idea. But then you could just buy some smaller pinions instead
One other point - the geezer going on about better torque and lower motor temps seemed pretty keen to sell 2.5 conversions
Nuff said.
Originally posted by Lonestar
er... I'd say nothing, besides being able to use TC3 gear charts... Gear ratio is gear ratio... whether the change is in the primary or secondary transmission won't change much!!! Just drop a tooth! am I missing something critical here?
er... I'd say nothing, besides being able to use TC3 gear charts... Gear ratio is gear ratio... whether the change is in the primary or secondary transmission won't change much!!! Just drop a tooth! am I missing something critical here?
To get this into perspective, dropping the pinion by 1 or 2 teeth on a standard 2.353 will have exactly the same effect on overall gearing as going to all the trouble and converting to a 2.5 internal ratio would. It does seem a little pointless.
Perhaps if you race low wind mod classes on very tight circuits where you need to run 1:8 - 1:9 overall ratios and you don't own any pinions smaller than 21teeth, perhaps then it might seem like a good idea. But then you could just buy some smaller pinions instead
One other point - the geezer going on about better torque and lower motor temps seemed pretty keen to sell 2.5 conversions
Nuff said.
#6014
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
With all respect, this is totally false.
Torque on the wheels only depends on the overall ratio and NOTHING else, maybe it changes the efficiency, but I'm sure the difference won't be noticeable.
With all respect, this is totally false.
Torque on the wheels only depends on the overall ratio and NOTHING else, maybe it changes the efficiency, but I'm sure the difference won't be noticeable.
What he said wasn't false as such, but it was rather mis-leading. If all other factors on the car remained unchanged and for any given pinion/spur combination, the 2.5 internal ratio would give higher torque at the wheels and a likelyhood of cooler motor temps - due purely to the lower overall ratio.
The thing is though, just as you have correctly pointed out, the overall ratio is what governs torque, accleration and topspeed and most of us just change the pinion/spur to achieve what we need. I cant see why or how the efficiency would change unless the gears used in the conversion are more/less precisely produced.