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Yokomo MR-4TC SD

Old 12-05-2003, 06:19 PM
  #5086  
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I almost didn't get SD with all the complaints you guys have had with tweak. Well, I went by the hobby shop today and got it anyways. I must say, so far with the build I am most impressed. every thing fits very snug. I can't wait to get back home from work so I can finish building it. working nights blows. later, rob
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Old 12-05-2003, 07:00 PM
  #5087  
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Originally posted by BlackFlagRacing
I almost didn't get SD with all the complaints you guys have had with tweak. Well, I went by the hobby shop today and got it anyways. I must say, so far with the build I am most impressed. every thing fits very snug. I can't wait to get back home from work so I can finish building it. working nights blows. later, rob
I've gotta get mine on the track, but even if they are tweaked, it's a hell of a fast car for bieng tweaked...
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Old 12-05-2003, 07:26 PM
  #5088  
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I think many of you worry a little too much about tweak. If the car handles well for you don't read into that it has a tad bit of tweak. Hell most real race cars don't scale out perfect but work great on the track.

Just run it like you stole it and you will be fine!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-05-2003, 08:59 PM
  #5089  
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There's been a lot of talk about tweak on this thread! I thought I'd post what I do to setup the car, this method seems to work well.
1. Balance the chassis, the SD has too much weight on the batt side when using GP 3300s.
2. Set the steering EPA by measuring the throw (Hudy board)
3. Loosen all of the droop screws, let the suspension have a lot of down travel.
4. Set the car on a flat, level surface, fully loaded w/ tires, and set ride height all around.
5. Tighten each droop until the spring perch just barely touches the spring.
6. Test the droop by using a wrench to lift the chassis up in the middle, from the bottom. If one side (tire) lifts first just slightly, the tweak issue is minor and can be fixed with a small droop screw adjustment. If one tire lifts up way before the other, than the chassis is tweaked or the car is unbalanced.
7. To fix a tweaked chassis, remove the tires and set the chassis flat on the table. Loosen the top deck, then tighten it, with the chassis flat. Now, when you test the tweak again, it should be better, closer to neutral.

Hope this helps out. When the SD is neutrally setup the only tweak issue I've had is after a major collision. Recently I've rolled the car off the track (corner dots ) but after the marshal put the car back, I didn't notice any tweak in the handling at all!!!
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Old 12-06-2003, 01:19 AM
  #5090  
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one thing that I have noticed is that no one has made any mention about their shocks. I had problems with tweak on my xxx-s because of shock pack and lenth was different. It took me a while before I was able to come to this conclusion.

ex. If you have one shock that (without springs on)is extending all the way out and one shock that is only extending out about a quater of the way, then when you set your droop, the car it will act like it has tweak, when in reallity one shock is be only pushed out as far as the spring will go, and the other one extends out a little further until stopped by the droop screw.

just a thought.

rob
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Old 12-06-2003, 08:51 AM
  #5091  
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Default CGM manual available

CGM manual is available on yokomo japan website already.

I felt that ...

pivot block and steering seems similar to XXX-S design

cam type motor mount is similar to TC3

by the look of it, it seems that the top deck might
be still usable on the cgm chassis.

If the chassis is graphite, I will be very keen to get one.
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Old 12-06-2003, 09:13 AM
  #5092  
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I'll have to download that and check it out, I'm interested to see how the car goes together..
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Old 12-06-2003, 09:16 AM
  #5093  
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guys wat is the standard shock length for SSS shocks?

thanx
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Old 12-06-2003, 09:25 AM
  #5094  
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Originally posted by lonestar1127
guys wat is the standard shock length for SSS shocks?

thanx
I believe mine are right around 60-61mm.
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Old 12-06-2003, 11:17 AM
  #5095  
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Well my SD debuts on carpet 2morrow, Im running stock and ive qualifed in the A-Final, should be ineresting, i noticed today my car is slightly tweaked but i doubt its enough to lower my performance.

Should i start with both roll bars on or off? I dont have a large experience with them to be honest and I would rather not be chasing a setup too much in practise as I dont get too much time!

cheers
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Old 12-06-2003, 03:26 PM
  #5096  
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Default SUZUKI FRONT KNUCLES FOR THE SD

HAVE TRIED ALL THE PLACES YOU HAVE ALL RECOMENDED AND STILL NO LUCK, ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYIDEAS WHERE I CAN GET MY HANDS ON A PAIR OF TEAM SUZUKI FRONT KNUCKLES FOR THE SD

BRAD P
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Old 12-06-2003, 03:32 PM
  #5097  
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check with Mr Lam at [email protected]
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Old 12-06-2003, 05:18 PM
  #5098  
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Default probably a dumb question but ..

what is the fastest way to swap out the motors? i got my sd ssg prebuilt, and was wondering what was the fastest way to swap em out..

thanks
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Old 12-06-2003, 11:14 PM
  #5099  
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hello, i span up my sd last night on its stand after swapping the motor over, only to be greated by an awful noise and the car stopping. when i looked closer the 4 spur gear screws had made their way loose. to get to them i took the top deck and the driveshaft out, although i still couldent get an allen key on it properly. is their any other way of getting the spur gear out for maintenence? The only ways i can see take far too long just for taking out a spur gear. Thanks
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Old 12-07-2003, 01:12 AM
  #5100  
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pheyhoe: Getting the spur gear out is easy on the SD. You don't even have to remove the upper deck. Just remove the main shaft like you did as well as the rear drive cup. Then remove the rear diff cover (2 screws). Loosen the set screw in the spur gear hub, push the input shaft back a few mm. and the pin holding the spur gear hub should fall out. Then just pull the input shaft out completely and make sure you don't lose any shims. Lift the spur gear + spur gear hub out through the hole in the upper deck.

justinalamode: Get a good 2.5 mm ball-end hex driver, first fasten the lower motor screw a few threads, then the upper, then tighten them both...
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