12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
10-04-2003, 09:18 PM
#3646
Tech Adept
Thats what I was trying to figure out, I just need all the part numbers so I can figure out a price, and then compare it to the option you suggested.
10-04-2003, 09:38 PM
#3647
Tech Adept
Originally posted by MarNaDaKi
CustomfibreR/C :
CustomfibreR/C :
SWEEEEEEET
10-04-2003, 09:41 PM
#3648
10-04-2003, 09:47 PM
#3649
Tech Adept
Thanks
I can add up the cost, but I was just trying to find out if I had missed any parts, as I don't have a SD, so I can't be totally sure.
Thanks again.
Trevor
Thanks again.
Trevor
10-04-2003, 11:46 PM
#3650
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
Yok racers- what is your take on the SD with a one way? Going to run on a very large sweeping track in two weeks for a regional race and have not ran a oneway in the yok. Going to be running mod sedan. Thanks for any thoughts.
Jeff
Yok racers- what is your take on the SD with a one way? Going to run on a very large sweeping track in two weeks for a regional race and have not ran a oneway in the yok. Going to be running mod sedan. Thanks for any thoughts.
Jeff
Use your one-way for large sweeping tracks so your car can carry more corner speed on the corners. Try to set-up your brakes on your radio to the point where if you were to hit full brakes, the car doesn't corkscrew or hook around you. I think your be very happy with the results if you ran a one-way on that track you just described. Goodluck.
10-05-2003, 12:46 AM
#3651
I normally run oneway regardless of track design. But that's just me. Maybe if they or someone built a steel Spool, I'd run that. But I go would go thru too many outdrives. Anyways... Do what Roger said. Adjust your brakes accordingly. You could also try ABS this way too if your radio supports it. But it's more involve tuning.
Okay, I ran the RS Chassis today. I dunno if it was a good day to run it. I was down on horse power. Anyways, I ran the same setup on this chassis as I did with my SSG chassis. Only things different besides chassis were the SS Shocks, RaySpeed #2 pistons, Ceramic diffballs, and front shock mounting position. Basically my SSG chassis had a RaySpeed setup even before I got the RS chassis.
So let's see, first the car seemed pretty responsive with crisp steering input. The car was planted. But I had a slight amount of push off power. I wasn't able to hook around when I wanted to. I went from 6.5mm rear droop to 6mm rear droop which helped alittle. I could have gone to 5.5mm. Maybe next time. I also attribute this slight push to the shock mounting position. On some of the RaySpeed setups it calls for using the 2nd from the outside hole on lower arm for shock mounting. Normally it's 2nd from the inside. But with this other mounting the arm has less leverage against the shock. So it would seem to be a stiffer front end. Also prevents full lock to lock steering because the tires will rub against the spring cups. Actually it's just about full lock to lock. Just make sure you pay attention to this and adjust the EPA on your radio so you don't go rubbing when turning lock to lock.
My chassis didn't rub much either. Usually it'll rub some in the rear. And the outter edges. This time it was a very slight amount. So the weight has definately been shifted forward. I didn't wreck much if at all (however I got taken out before the first turn at the start of the race. Go figure! haha.) But I did not experience any tweaking at all today. Car was pretty consistant.
I ran Stock by the way. Oh but I DID twist ANOTHER Yokomo graphite main shaft!!! This is my second one. I'm wondering if thats why my car seemed off power today than it was last weekend. I checked my shaft last night and it was straight. But after all the racing today I looked at it and noticed it was twisted. Maybe I'll try the Tobee Craft one. I dunno, maybe I'm just putting down too much HP in Stock???! Maybe it's the oneways, I dunno.
Anyways, it's hard to compare this chassis to the old one considering my old setup was perfect for this track from the start. I think with a few changes to front shock location and rear droop, I can get it rolling. I do like the steering input. And that was about the only real noticable difference I could tell so far. That and no tweaking and torque steer that I remember.
Blah blah blah, I'll be running the RaySpeed Chassis on carpet with foams next weekend. We'll see how this works out!!
Jimmy Mac
Okay, I ran the RS Chassis today. I dunno if it was a good day to run it. I was down on horse power. Anyways, I ran the same setup on this chassis as I did with my SSG chassis. Only things different besides chassis were the SS Shocks, RaySpeed #2 pistons, Ceramic diffballs, and front shock mounting position. Basically my SSG chassis had a RaySpeed setup even before I got the RS chassis.
So let's see, first the car seemed pretty responsive with crisp steering input. The car was planted. But I had a slight amount of push off power. I wasn't able to hook around when I wanted to. I went from 6.5mm rear droop to 6mm rear droop which helped alittle. I could have gone to 5.5mm. Maybe next time. I also attribute this slight push to the shock mounting position. On some of the RaySpeed setups it calls for using the 2nd from the outside hole on lower arm for shock mounting. Normally it's 2nd from the inside. But with this other mounting the arm has less leverage against the shock. So it would seem to be a stiffer front end. Also prevents full lock to lock steering because the tires will rub against the spring cups. Actually it's just about full lock to lock. Just make sure you pay attention to this and adjust the EPA on your radio so you don't go rubbing when turning lock to lock.
My chassis didn't rub much either. Usually it'll rub some in the rear. And the outter edges. This time it was a very slight amount. So the weight has definately been shifted forward. I didn't wreck much if at all (however I got taken out before the first turn at the start of the race. Go figure! haha.) But I did not experience any tweaking at all today. Car was pretty consistant.
I ran Stock by the way. Oh but I DID twist ANOTHER Yokomo graphite main shaft!!! This is my second one. I'm wondering if thats why my car seemed off power today than it was last weekend. I checked my shaft last night and it was straight. But after all the racing today I looked at it and noticed it was twisted. Maybe I'll try the Tobee Craft one. I dunno, maybe I'm just putting down too much HP in Stock???! Maybe it's the oneways, I dunno.
Anyways, it's hard to compare this chassis to the old one considering my old setup was perfect for this track from the start. I think with a few changes to front shock location and rear droop, I can get it rolling. I do like the steering input. And that was about the only real noticable difference I could tell so far. That and no tweaking and torque steer that I remember.
Blah blah blah, I'll be running the RaySpeed Chassis on carpet with foams next weekend. We'll see how this works out!!
Jimmy Mac
10-05-2003, 03:12 AM
#3652
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Use losi ball cup
Originally posted by Trevor
Hi,
have a SD (yet) . The only thing I have not listed are the turnbuckles and ball cups, as I could not find any part numbers for them, so could you guys please post them?
Hi,
have a SD (yet) . The only thing I have not listed are the turnbuckles and ball cups, as I could not find any part numbers for them, so could you guys please post them?
You can download the manual to use you an idea of
the turnbuckles length. And order from Lundsford.
Maybe you can advise how much that will cost you.
10-05-2003, 09:54 AM
#3655
Ok am I correct? The rear shock tower gives more steering and if so is it more on power steering? 19T class carpet at http://www.rctrack.com and I did not do as well as I should last Saturday. Some of it was me (mostly) and I just felt I needed more corner speed.
10-05-2003, 11:23 AM
#3656
Kilruf: Thanks for the first run analysis.
I've also noticed that, with my RS FRONT shock tower, the shock positions that the included setup sheet asks for are too close to the wheels. They want you to use the hole in the front arm that is the second farthest out, and if you use this hole, the tire will rub on the shock end under hard steering. Of course, this is with 26mm foams; maybe that position only works with 24mm rubber tires.
I had the same issue on the rear of the car, where if you run the farthest out hole on the rear arm (shock position) the shock end would rub on the tire.
To fix these two problems, I moved the shock end (on the arm) in by one hole, and now the tires won't rub. Of course, this will also stand up the shocks, so I also used a one hole more layed down shock position on the tower.
forty6: I will post my reactions or issues to the RS chassis handling after I run it on Friday or Saturday. I must say, however, that I have made a ton of setup changes since running last week, so I expect that even if the chassis helps, I may not know whether it is the chassis or setup which is improving the car.
I've also noticed that, with my RS FRONT shock tower, the shock positions that the included setup sheet asks for are too close to the wheels. They want you to use the hole in the front arm that is the second farthest out, and if you use this hole, the tire will rub on the shock end under hard steering. Of course, this is with 26mm foams; maybe that position only works with 24mm rubber tires.
I had the same issue on the rear of the car, where if you run the farthest out hole on the rear arm (shock position) the shock end would rub on the tire.
To fix these two problems, I moved the shock end (on the arm) in by one hole, and now the tires won't rub. Of course, this will also stand up the shocks, so I also used a one hole more layed down shock position on the tower.
forty6: I will post my reactions or issues to the RS chassis handling after I run it on Friday or Saturday. I must say, however, that I have made a ton of setup changes since running last week, so I expect that even if the chassis helps, I may not know whether it is the chassis or setup which is improving the car.
10-05-2003, 11:50 AM
#3657
Originally posted by lonestar1127
Yokomo graphite shaft is nt strong even for stock race?
Yokomo graphite shaft is nt strong even for stock race?
Graphite shaft NOT recommended even for stock 23 turn use.
I say again, Graphite shaft NOT recomended even for stock 23 turn use.
End of broadcast :P
10-05-2003, 02:14 PM
#3658
I just tried to fit a set of foam tires (Jaco) on an SD, with less than stellar results. The front wheels lock up on the steering knuckles, and the rear wheels rub on the shock mount when it is in the far out position.
Does the car only accept a particular brand (or offset) of wheel?
I am going to add 1mm spacers for now, but that pushes the car out beyond the legal width limit (just over 192mm for me rather than 190mm).
Does the car only accept a particular brand (or offset) of wheel?
I am going to add 1mm spacers for now, but that pushes the car out beyond the legal width limit (just over 192mm for me rather than 190mm).
10-05-2003, 02:26 PM
#3659
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Don't worry I had the same problem with Jaco tires. I like them the best. I ended up using the TRC 26MM foams and it is a ton better. I run in one hole in the front a arm and in one on the rear and don't have any problems.
10-05-2003, 03:08 PM
#3660
I also run the TRC 26mm foams (plaid, purple) because they fit without modification on the front of the the car. I've seen others here with the SD buy the Jaco 28mm tire and actually true down the inside of the wheel on the tire truer. They do this only for the front tires, making the fronts 27mm wide and leaving the rears 28mm wide.
wyd: Besides how the tires fit, how do the Jaco and TRC tires compare handling wise, and what compounds have you tried? What are the advantages or disadvantages to running a wider or narrower tire?
wyd: Besides how the tires fit, how do the Jaco and TRC tires compare handling wise, and what compounds have you tried? What are the advantages or disadvantages to running a wider or narrower tire?