teamAE

I loooks liek you could still put the upper deck on for some realy stiffchassie.

BossPlaya

thanks everybody for the good advice...

I'm curious though, why dont they sell matched batteries already pre-soldered?? Or do they?

another question, what kind of packs? NIMH or Nicd? sorry for the noob questions. What company matches well?

magerz24

Hi everyone, I have a major problem with droop. No mater what I do, I have at least 8 or more mm of droop. I tried using the long shock ends but then I get alot of ride hight. Right now I am running associated springs and shock ends. How do I lower my droop without affection ride hight. Thanks

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Boss, if you go to Promatches website they will build the batteries for you. The lastest batteries to get are the GP3300 NiMh. http://www.promatchracing.com/gp3300.htm Here is a link for you. It'll cost you $6 extra to solder them. $2.50 more to add a plug. Or just go to SpeedtechRC and buy a matched Stick pack. It'll save you the hassle as you learn the hobby. But remember, you don't need the best of the best stuff. First learn to drive and setup the car. Once you can post consistant lap times without crashing... then move to the more "exotic" batteries.

As for radio, I have the MX3 and it'll do everything you need to do to race. It's my "backup" radio. And I have used it to race from time to time. But I mainly use the Futaba 3PK. Very nice radio. Top quality. I run the Keyence and I'll never switch back after using it. Very nice ESC. Stock motor, just get a Monster Stock Pro. Start gearing around 6.9.... or if you have stock spur 72... then get a 24 pinion. That'll get you started at 7.05 final ratio.

Mager, you aren't making any sense... if you get alot of ride height then your droop is lower than 8mm. So then you won't have a droop problem. Please clarify. Also, are you using the droop screws to set your droop?

BossPlaya

Thanks KillRuff!

Thanks for all the advice from everybody.

cHckbOY5

is the rayspeed chassis limited? r they releasin it here in US?

elnitro

iTrader: (1)

It does not mention anywhere that it will be limited.

BossPlaya

KilRuff, thanks for the advice..

the dean's plug on the promatch site is the standard plug most people use?

peter_robinson

iTrader: (21)

it is really up to you, if you want your tires to last longer, then you can start them at 60mm (i would not go much bigger than this), or if you just care about performance, i start mine at 58mm.

peter_robinson

iTrader: (21)

the worldwide availability of this chassis is not known yet, but there are plans for the chassis to come to the states if availability and quantities allows.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Boss, alot of people use Deans. It's a very good connector and is less hassle than other methods. Many people direct solder (hardwire) their batteries in. Meaning, they have to solder the wire onto the battery every time they go race. Then when they are done, they have to unsolder it. It's really unnecessary for club racing. I used to hardwire. But I travel alot racing. So sometimes outlets (power) isn't available. So this is where plugs come in. Hardwire does offer the most direct (or shortest) wiring from ESC to battery. But there is another connector called by many names. Euro plugs, bullet connectors, banana plugs, etc. It offers direct connection but doesn't require soldering your batteries in every run. Only problem is it's very easy to plug your batteries in backwards. Best start off with Deans. Avoid Tamiya (plastic white) plugs. They'll melt together real fast under high load conditions.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Howdy fellow Yokers

since 2003 8th scale gas season is running to an end, and colder days are only a few weeks from here, I started building my SD (brought directly from the US by a visiting buddy two months ago, as some of you might remember). As I expected, and as usual with the brand, Yokomo is already planning to release an updated SD (that TC3 looking plastic car)... Oh well... The good thing is now you hardcore racing folks now have some solid insight about which hopups to purchase for the SD... Let's talk about axles and bones if you don't mind...

A few months ago everybody was talking about broken bones and axles, and how the stock aluminium ones can't take abuse... What is now considered a good solution for both durability and performance? New Axles? New bones? Both) Tobee, Square, shooters, older yokomo, MIP? Steel, alu, titanium? Front? Rear? Both? Can you please sum it up for me? Parts numbers would really help (ordering abroad online...)... Thanks a lot, really...

another question: When you rotate the servo 90 degs to make more room on the lower chassis, do you redrill the latter? With what? Any special precautions to take? (never drilled epoxy/carbon before)

thanks all,

Later,
Paul

utieh

iTrader: (3)

salut lonestar!

I broke 2 pairs of front bones, now I run Square Titanium in the front which are quite expensive and Tobee's in the rear, with this configuration I didn't break anything.
I kept the stock axles (never had problem with those)
good luck with the yoke!

kentech

iTrader: (6)

Lonestar: I have never had any problems with the standard steel cvd's. I used them for practice but for racing I got some aluminium bones just because the SD is over 1500g box standard. I got the Tobee Craft bones simply because they are quite cheap. I did however brake one front bone but I don't blame the Tobee bone for that... when another SD crashes straight in front of you on the main straight you have to expect that something will break...

At the same time I also got the Tobee front and rear input shaft's that considerably lightens the drivetrain and lower's the c.g. Other than that I have the Yokomo titanium screw set and a shortened TC3 graphite main shaft installed. All these things I have done to lighten the car so I can at least run some ballast in the car.

The only other option parts I have on my car are the Atheena shock towers.

The best driveshafts would IMO definitely be MIP aluminium cvd's. There's not a specific set available but you could use the ones made for the MR4TC. Rear ones fit straight without modification while at the front you should use rear MR4TC bones and front MR4TC axles. This is what I would do if I could only get them SOMEWHERE at a reasonable price...

Yokomo:
SD-TSS Titanium Screw Set for SD
ZS-010RTB Low-Friction Universal Dog Bone, Front and Rear (Aluminum)
Tobee:
42370 Aluminium front and rear input shafts
42400 Aluminium CVD bones pair
Atheena:
SD-01F Front Shock Tower
SD-01R Rear Shock Tower

kentech

iTrader: (6)

peter_robinson: Could you post your carpet setup?