Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#2896
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Re: The Drive Train
Originally posted by Nitro_Crash
I have heard and seen that thet Yokomo MR4TC SD Drivetrain can be freed so much that you can spin the wheels and they can spin forever almost of course without the motor installed. How do you get it to be that free? I heard of removing the shims from the inside of the diff case. Is that correct? Or do you move the shims from the front of the bearing to the rear? HELP. Took my car apart and want to do this correctly. Thanks.
I have heard and seen that thet Yokomo MR4TC SD Drivetrain can be freed so much that you can spin the wheels and they can spin forever almost of course without the motor installed. How do you get it to be that free? I heard of removing the shims from the inside of the diff case. Is that correct? Or do you move the shims from the front of the bearing to the rear? HELP. Took my car apart and want to do this correctly. Thanks.
#2898
Tech Fanatic
One of the most important tricks to a free drive train is proper bearing treatment. Like most bearings, the Yokomos come with a heavy grease inside. By very carefully removing one shield, cleaning the bearing with the IRS bearing cleaner with WD-40 and then using a light bearing oil instead of the grease, the bearing can spin much freer. However, the bearing will require more maintainance, as dirt and grime can much more easily enter the bearing with the one shield missing. Proper shimming and break-in are also important, but only to the extent that there is no binding within the drivetrain. Also, experiment with different gear lubrications for the diff ring gears. I have used white lightening, but find that it leaves a wax residue that can bind the gears.
#2899
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (53)
Originally posted by Matt Howard
just shim it like the manual says and run it for a weekend, it will free up just fine. If you really have your heart set on it free spinning for awhile shell out the $100 or so and get some ceramic bearings
just shim it like the manual says and run it for a weekend, it will free up just fine. If you really have your heart set on it free spinning for awhile shell out the $100 or so and get some ceramic bearings
#2903
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Last night I ran my car with the rear shock tower on the front. Damn does that thing make my car steer even more than it already did. I raised my front roll center up 2mm and that helped to simmer my steering down some. Even with the locked diff I still had tons of steering in and out. I just finished making me a .078 front swaybar instead of that little skinny stock one that came with the car.
If I take my rear camber link out on the rear hub and put a spacer under the ball stud won't that give me a little more rear bite? Would that be the same for the front as well?
Thanks
Brian
If I take my rear camber link out on the rear hub and put a spacer under the ball stud won't that give me a little more rear bite? Would that be the same for the front as well?
Thanks
Brian
#2904
Norwegian Championship
Just finished 4th in the Norwegian Stock Nats, with my 1 month old SD. Might have done better if I hadn't lost my kingpin screw in the last final. (>_<)
Guess I have to get me some of those Suzuki front hubs, so I can loctite those suckers...
Sigmund
Guess I have to get me some of those Suzuki front hubs, so I can loctite those suckers...
Sigmund
#2905
Tech Fanatic
Sigmund- Congrats on the win! The Suzuki hubs are nice because you can locktite them and they look cool, but if you are using MIP Shiny universals the fit is as tight as it can be, but it shouldn't rub.
wyd- Usually, if you change the camber link angle to cause it to slope downward as it reaches the center of the chassis, traction will be reduced. So, putting a shim under the outer ball stud on the rear should give you less rear traction. However, doing the same to the front only might fix your problem. For a while I ran pro-squat in the rear for more rear bite. I put about 1 or 1.5 mm of shimming under the rear mount of the rear arm only. This causes the arm to point downward towards the front of the car and can give you more rear grip coming out of corners. This is not a popular setup on other vehicles, but it does seem to work on the SD.
wyd- Usually, if you change the camber link angle to cause it to slope downward as it reaches the center of the chassis, traction will be reduced. So, putting a shim under the outer ball stud on the rear should give you less rear traction. However, doing the same to the front only might fix your problem. For a while I ran pro-squat in the rear for more rear bite. I put about 1 or 1.5 mm of shimming under the rear mount of the rear arm only. This causes the arm to point downward towards the front of the car and can give you more rear grip coming out of corners. This is not a popular setup on other vehicles, but it does seem to work on the SD.
#2906
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by Matt Howard
You had bad luck? I was winning for half the race until I came up on traffic, I cleared the way so John could make it through for the win.
You had bad luck? I was winning for half the race until I came up on traffic, I cleared the way so John could make it through for the win.
#2907
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
coolrcdad thanks for the tips. I keep writing this stuff down in my notebook. It really helps if my car is giving me problems.
#2909
Hey guys
Dont know if you have seen these pictures or not...but enjoy!
Dont know if you have seen these pictures or not...but enjoy!
#2910
Hey is that the hybrid chassis that combines parts of the SD with parts from a Tamiya EVO III? If it is cool, and even better if its the Rayspeed chassis. DOOOD ITS SWEET!!!!