Yokomo MR-4TC SD
What do you mean? I know the original ones, the SDW ones and the Titanium Racing ones, Yes they are more expensive but spare parts to rebuild them are available and they are strong.
I assume you are asking what do I mean about the different type of drive shaft/CVD/uni.
As far as I can tell, there are two basic types as per the attached pictures. The first picture is what I bought from RCMart and has the part number SD-010FC. The second is a broken one off the MR4TC SD WCSP. On the first one, the wheel hub pin hole is in a different position to the second. Also the first has two machined diameters then the thread whereas the second has 3 machined diameters then the thread. The critical dimension is the distance from the face on which the inner bearing sits to the wheel hub pin hole, and it is different on the two driveshafts.
Last night, after downloading the exploded diagrams for the CGM, LCG, SSG/Black, Worlds Replica and CM Drift package versions of the SD, I realised that the Worlds Replica driveshafts (like photo 2) come with a spacer or driveshaft collar that goes between inner bearing and the hub carrier, but the other driveshafts (like photo 1) do not use a driveshaft collar. The hub carrier is the same for ALL the listed cars. So perhaps I can use the driveshaft in photo 1 if I leave off the driveshaft collar.
As far as I can tell, there are two basic types as per the attached pictures. The first picture is what I bought from RCMart and has the part number SD-010FC. The second is a broken one off the MR4TC SD WCSP. On the first one, the wheel hub pin hole is in a different position to the second. Also the first has two machined diameters then the thread whereas the second has 3 machined diameters then the thread. The critical dimension is the distance from the face on which the inner bearing sits to the wheel hub pin hole, and it is different on the two driveshafts.
Last night, after downloading the exploded diagrams for the CGM, LCG, SSG/Black, Worlds Replica and CM Drift package versions of the SD, I realised that the Worlds Replica driveshafts (like photo 2) come with a spacer or driveshaft collar that goes between inner bearing and the hub carrier, but the other driveshafts (like photo 1) do not use a driveshaft collar. The hub carrier is the same for ALL the listed cars. So perhaps I can use the driveshaft in photo 1 if I leave off the driveshaft collar.
You better use the first ones, cvd's parts are available seperately so you don't have to replace the complete driveshaft.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
I got on to the Yokomo USA site and sent and email requesting help with the drive shaft question. Later that day one of their people called me, international to Australia!! He (I can't remember his name) was super helpful.
From the conversation we had, it seems that the drive shafts are all interchangeable, but the style of driveshaft on the Worlds Edition SD car requires a spacer or collar to be inserted into the hub carrier before the bearing on the inboard side. This ensures that the pin lines up with the hole correctly. On the worlds edition car you can use the other style of driveshaft by removing this spacer or collar. The hardened steel universal driveshafts (SD-010FH and RH) are the most durable followed by the steel CVDs (such as SD-010FC and RC). The aluminium driveshafts that come with the Worlds Edition flog out after a few days racing because of the powerful motors we use these days. Some guys save their alum ones for big races and use steel for smaller races and practice.
From the conversation we had, it seems that the drive shafts are all interchangeable, but the style of driveshaft on the Worlds Edition SD car requires a spacer or collar to be inserted into the hub carrier before the bearing on the inboard side. This ensures that the pin lines up with the hole correctly. On the worlds edition car you can use the other style of driveshaft by removing this spacer or collar. The hardened steel universal driveshafts (SD-010FH and RH) are the most durable followed by the steel CVDs (such as SD-010FC and RC). The aluminium driveshafts that come with the Worlds Edition flog out after a few days racing because of the powerful motors we use these days. Some guys save their alum ones for big races and use steel for smaller races and practice.
Tech Apprentice
Good to see the SD is still knocking about....
Thought id just pop in, knock it back to the top of the board....
Been out of racing for quite some time, but getting back into it know.....
Just dusting off the SD, strippin her down and rebuilding... The AEast 2005 project if anyone remembers it....?
Im sure with a bunch of a new electrics it will be be back at the top again soon..... Does anyone know if Yokomo still actively make parts for the orginal SD as thats what the AEast Tub is based on....
Now just got to work out how to get a lipo in there...
Heres to the SD..... Im not too keen on these belt drive things...
That carpet chassis looks awesome....
Thought id just pop in, knock it back to the top of the board....
Been out of racing for quite some time, but getting back into it know.....
Just dusting off the SD, strippin her down and rebuilding... The AEast 2005 project if anyone remembers it....?
Im sure with a bunch of a new electrics it will be be back at the top again soon..... Does anyone know if Yokomo still actively make parts for the orginal SD as thats what the AEast Tub is based on....
Now just got to work out how to get a lipo in there...
Heres to the SD..... Im not too keen on these belt drive things...
That carpet chassis looks awesome....
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Here is my SD black I run in 19 turn class at my track.
Its the perfect 19 turn/stock car. I like this car as much as my TC5. I have won lots of local races with this car and its still fast and keeps up with the newer cars.
Electronics:
Radio: M11 Prestige
Esc: Novak GTX
Motor: Orion Element 07
Batts: Orion 4200 SHO
Servo: Airtronics 94362
Its the perfect 19 turn/stock car. I like this car as much as my TC5. I have won lots of local races with this car and its still fast and keeps up with the newer cars.
Electronics:
Radio: M11 Prestige
Esc: Novak GTX
Motor: Orion Element 07
Batts: Orion 4200 SHO
Servo: Airtronics 94362
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
SD-010FH- can anyone direct me to any sites that carry this item and ships worldwide, or can anyone help ship the item to me please, thanks
Last edited by Elevenx; 03-26-2008 at 07:27 PM.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
Hi,
I just picked up an MR4TC-SD SSG in a trade and due to the fact that parts aren't as readily available where i'm at as much as I'd like, I was wondering if any of you Yokomo die-hards could let me know if there are any parts interchangeability with any of the Associated cars (TC3/4/5). The car is in need of a few parts to get back up to good running condition, so I was wondering if anyone's finagled other manufacturers' cars parts to work with the MR4TC-BD.
I'm mostly interested in the wear items, like diffs/diff components, arms, hubs, kingpins, shock components, etc.
TIA!
I just picked up an MR4TC-SD SSG in a trade and due to the fact that parts aren't as readily available where i'm at as much as I'd like, I was wondering if any of you Yokomo die-hards could let me know if there are any parts interchangeability with any of the Associated cars (TC3/4/5). The car is in need of a few parts to get back up to good running condition, so I was wondering if anyone's finagled other manufacturers' cars parts to work with the MR4TC-BD.
I'm mostly interested in the wear items, like diffs/diff components, arms, hubs, kingpins, shock components, etc.
TIA!
Last edited by encore75; 04-28-2008 at 05:02 PM.
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
Hi,
I just picked up an MR4TC-SD SSG in a trade and due to the fact that parts aren't as readily available where i'm at as much as I'd like, I was wondering if any of you Yokomo die-hards could let me know if there are any parts interchangeability with any of the Associated cars (TC3/4/5). The car is in need of a few parts to get back up to good running condition, so I was wondering if anyone's finagled other manufacturers' cars parts to work with the MR4TC-BD.
I'm mostly interested in the wear items, like diffs/diff components, arms, hubs, kingpins, shock components, etc.
TIA!
I just picked up an MR4TC-SD SSG in a trade and due to the fact that parts aren't as readily available where i'm at as much as I'd like, I was wondering if any of you Yokomo die-hards could let me know if there are any parts interchangeability with any of the Associated cars (TC3/4/5). The car is in need of a few parts to get back up to good running condition, so I was wondering if anyone's finagled other manufacturers' cars parts to work with the MR4TC-BD.
I'm mostly interested in the wear items, like diffs/diff components, arms, hubs, kingpins, shock components, etc.
TIA!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
LCG to Drift Master
Have an LCG question.
has anyone ordered
part number SD-003M - drift master top deck
part number SD-002L - drift master bottom deck.
these parts very similar to the LCG parts but the drift version lower deck has less cutouts and top deck looks a little wider..perhaps this could stiffen the car up just a little?
thanks
OL>
has anyone ordered
part number SD-003M - drift master top deck
part number SD-002L - drift master bottom deck.
these parts very similar to the LCG parts but the drift version lower deck has less cutouts and top deck looks a little wider..perhaps this could stiffen the car up just a little?
thanks
OL>
MR4TC SD owner here just checking in...mainly does drifitng duties for me now...post pics later!
Tech Rookie
Worlds Edition SD "the blue ones" you do use a spacer pay close attention because the front and rear spacers are different sizes. I have found them to be super durable. the only thing to pay attention to is that you may see a bit of rubbing on the inside of the carriers up front.
OK here's my SD
Mazda RX8 body...for the Mazda Cup
Mazda RX8 body...for the Mazda Cup
Tech Regular
Melted plastic diff
I still run my old SD cause it's still competitive. However, with powerful brushless motor, the plastic diff often ended up melted coming out of corner. Is there anything that I could do to solve this problem?