dstrout

(I posted this in the newbie forum, and didn't get any response, so I thought I'd try here in the sedan area. If cross-posting is a no-no, forgive me)

HI! I'm a re-newbie -- I raced (badly) a few years ago, then haven't touched it, and now I'm looking to get back to it.

I've got a heavily modified TA02 -- FRP deck chassis, all aluminum suspension parts, FRP shock towers, front one-way, etc. Rx is a novak NER-3FM, speed control is a Novak Duster. Motors are a greem machine (original ) or a Midnight. Tx is a Caliper 3PS.

Pictures of it, if you care

So, my question is, is there any hope of getting this car setup to race at least semi-competitively, or should I give it up & buy a new one?

I've got both indoor carpet (The Track in Gaithersburg, MD) and parking lot series local to me, if that matters. Both have a class that allows any car, but only ROAR stock motors. The Track also has a "19 turn spec" class.

I don't care which class I run in, and I don't care about winning, but I'd like to get the car to the point where a good driver (not me ) could get at least mid-pack in the A-main.

So, do-able or hopeless? if do-able, which class? Any setup hints? I never got the car to quit oversteering last time I ran it.

thanks alot,
dave.

rchotrod

Get a decent set-up on the car and go have fun.

The aluminum parts will weigh more than the standard parts, which isn't a bad thing. The car will probably react a little slower to inputs and that is a good thing getting started.

Make sure the car has no binding anywhere and that the chassis is not tweaked. Find a buddy at the track with a tweak guage and set-up guages and check it. Oh and you might want to swap out the oneway for a diff. The car will be alot easier to drive. Oneways are nice but they can do more harm than good, especially just starting out. If the track is tight and twisty, requiring alot of brakes, the standard diff is the way to go, If the track is more open and flowing then a oneway could be faster. It just depends on your skill at the wheel.

You may have to do some tuning to get the car to handle whichever track you decide to run. Find a tuning guide and it will explain the different adjustments to make. XXX Main www.xxxmain.com has a really nice guide, or you can search online for a tuning guide. And the guide will work for just about any car.

Sounds like you got a pretty good car already, so it should be able to get you in the A main. And it should be very durable for the fender rubbing that frequents A main races. LOL

Good luck and remember to have fun!!
Rod

dicey

From what I've seen and read about that car you should look for a new rig. It sounds like the rest of your setup is fine, although the new stock motors are supposedly better than the green machine.

If you still want a tamiya the tb evo III is a very hot shaft driven car that all the team drivers in asia are driving. I saw it run indoors a couple of weeks ago and it blew the doors off the 19 turn spec class.

If you want cheap parts that are easy to find go with a tc3 or xxx-s (my car). Either can be had on ebay for a good price. If tc-3, go for the team version, if xxx-3 make sure you get the graphite plus.

rcfreak20

iTrader: (3)

hey i'm an underdog people don't believe in great skillz. they are taught the way of buy big, buy expensive, and put your faith in the car instead of hand-eye coordination. one example if you can't type, then a new ergonomical keyboard won't help you any if you don't know where the home keys are. dude, practice and hone in the skill a new car won't help you get around the corner if you can control the throttle and steering. if you want to be a follower the be a sheep, if you want to cunning, quick, and stable then be the wolf.

one thing though, get some better motors and some good tires.

Q: how would someone fell if they got beat with an older car?

marc

Ive used ta02's before. Its heavy and it aint that much competitive against newer cars today. But when racing older cars, it can catch up. Better buy a new one.

fabolousRC

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to install the ball bearing-ed aluminum steering kit to increase the steering response. Integy or GPM still has them. If someone still have them, get the double deck CF chassis for extra stiffness. Switch the main shaft to a more durable and stronger aluminum from other manufacturers (don't settle for drivetrain loss). Watch out for your gearing, check those gear mesh often or the gears at the rear gearbox will either melt or break.

utieh

iTrader: (3)

as a re-newbie (like me) u should keep the car for a few month, like it was said before buy motor and tires+ plus a coll body (with tinted windows and trf decals), u will be to save some cash to buy the chassis u really like
it is 1 year now i am a re-newbie and after 4 years of break i have to buy everything again, i kept my old 1700 packs, novak racer, maxtec motor!...the rest is new : mx3 radio, new servo ,xxl rx...

dstrout

Thanks, all. I think I'm leaning to getting a new car, after the discussion here, and talking to a local racer for whom I have great respect. Time to go TA04-R shopping!

I'll keep the TA02 as a knock-around car (it was my first car, and cost a fortune to build). Just can't part with it...

Thanks,
dave.

utieh

iTrader: (3)

tamiya've just released a ta04-TRF, that means that the ta04 platform will be replaced by the ta05 very soon (less than a year).
perhaps u could wait for the x-ray t1R, it will cost something like $200 .
it s a very strong chassis too (unlike the tc3 and xxxs)

rowdyrj

iTrader: (1)

The 02 has to many things going against it. For pne its the front and rear gear box and two all those parts that you have only add to the weight of the car. Especially in stock and 19T spec class.
Three the gearbox are the week link with the set up that you have. I use to race the 02 and I pretty much had what you had but I would loose to much time in the corners. I have raced the 03F David Junn and now I just got a 04R . Good luck with anyway if you race it.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

I was gonna help you, than I saw the Mark Martin colors...... WHAT IN THE BLUE HELL WHERE YOU THINKING?!?!?!?!.......

I personnally whould campain the 02 chassis in the novice class for a few weeks. Save up the experience for a little while...... Spend the extra dough on a new comp. stock motor right now....... and STAY AWAY FROM THE 19T CLASS....... at least until you have more experience behind the wheel.
Once you get the new chassis stay in novice at least until your are within shooting distance of the stock boys.

Remember it doesn't matter which class you are in, only that you have fun.....

BTW: who is the racer who you respect and admire.... if it's Nelly your in trouble....LOL J/K actually if it was me you'd be in alot of trouble!!!!!

dstrout

He He He. I hadn't made the Mark Martin connection -- remember, that car was painted some 7 years ago. There was actually an IMSA car that looked sort of like that, that's where is came from. God forbid NASCAR paint on touring cars, I'll agree.

I think I'm going to go w/ a TA04 (Raybig NSX). Being an import, I'm guessing it'll have to have color-change paint, ultra-low profile wheels, and neon underneath, right? Anybody know where to get 1/10 scale chrome girls for the back window?



dave.

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

Dstrout:
if you are interested in the TA04-R
Check out Steve's site at speedtechrc.com
he has the one without the body for 209.00 with an awesome graphite looking box or you can get the raybrig that you like for a little more

It is a great race ready car & very well made.
I have two of them, one setup as a short wheel base, great at turns and a raybrig one.

You can also wait for the TRF version which will probably arrive end of March here in US but that will break you more than $300.00

Good luck!