Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Corally RDX Phi >

Team Corally RDX Phi

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Team Corally RDX Phi

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-11-2007, 01:32 PM
  #616  
Company Representative
 
CorallyUSA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 235
Default NOW AVAILABLE


Now available from Team Corally is the Graphite 9mm Diff Adjustment Tool for easier access to adjusting your Phi diffs.

CorallyUSA is offline  
Old 06-11-2007, 04:36 PM
  #617  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
tbeardmore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: aka "Rock Star"...!
Posts: 879
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CorallyUSA

Now available from Team Corally is the Graphite 9mm Diff Adjustment Tool for easier access to adjusting your Phi diffs.

Crap... too late.. I already made one out of an old broken t-bar... Works Perfect too!
tbeardmore is offline  
Old 06-12-2007, 06:22 PM
  #618  
Tech Master
 
rcgen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,069
Default Wheelbase setup

I was checking the different setups and everyone was using the short wheelbase for an asphault setup. On the PHI the rear has two sets of holes for coupler clamps. I tried the placing the clamps on the first hole but that made the cvd joints were too much at an angle. So I tried the last set of holes and the cvds were inline with the diff. So for the short wheelbase are there two shims up front for the front arms and two shims on the rear for the rear arms?

Also, are the kit shock pistons the same size as the tamiya 3 hole?
rcgen is offline  
Old 06-12-2007, 07:04 PM
  #619  
Tech Addict
 
Big Rigg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 574
Default

Originally Posted by rcgen
I was checking the different setups and everyone was using the short wheelbase for an asphault setup. On the PHI the rear has two sets of holes for coupler clamps. I tried the placing the clamps on the first hole but that made the cvd joints were too much at an angle. So I tried the last set of holes and the cvds were inline with the diff. So for the short wheelbase are there two shims up front for the front arms and two shims on the rear for the rear arms?

Also, are the kit shock pistons the same size as the tamiya 3 hole?

Yup, you're correct about the shim position for the short wheel base. To run the clamps in the shorter holes you'd need the optional pulleys and belts.

The kit comes with the 1.3 holes... I'm not sure how that stacks up to the tamiya 3hole, I'd guess they'd be similar since the tamiya holes are smaller, but there are more of them..
Big Rigg is offline  
Old 06-12-2007, 09:11 PM
  #620  
Tech Master
iTrader: (34)
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,332
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Big Rigg
Yup, you're correct about the shim position for the short wheel base. To run the clamps in the shorter holes you'd need the optional pulleys and belts.

The kit comes with the 1.3 holes... I'm not sure how that stacks up to the tamiya 3hole, I'd guess they'd be similar since the tamiya holes are smaller, but there are more of them..
Not sure if this is absolutely correct but the way I've heard the pistons compared is:

Corally 2 holes x 1.3mm = 2.6
Tamiya 3 holes x 0.8mm = 2.4

Also Tamiya pistons inside the Corally shock, there's a little extra space between the piston and the shock body so you get more oil going around the piston than a Corally piston. So I would imagine that they are fairly similar in damping with the Tamiya possibly having slightly less pack. This is just what I've heard.
CraigX is offline  
Old 06-12-2007, 10:40 PM
  #621  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,379
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigX
Not sure if this is absolutely correct but the way I've heard the pistons compared is:

Corally 2 holes x 1.3mm = 2.6
Tamiya 3 holes x 0.8mm = 2.4

Also Tamiya pistons inside the Corally shock, there's a little extra space between the piston and the shock body so you get more oil going around the piston than a Corally piston. So I would imagine that they are fairly similar in damping with the Tamiya possibly having slightly less pack. This is just what I've heard.

Applying the formula for area of a circle, the area of these holes would be:
1.3mm diameter hole is 1.327 square mm x 2 holes equals 2.654 square mm
0.8mm diameter hole is .503 square mm x 3 holes equals 1.509 square mm

BIG difference there! Think I got this right.

Maybe the stated larger gap around the outside of the Tamiya piston is the difference that makes the fluid flow more equal between the two pistons.

Sorry, I know that "fluid dynamics" also plays a part in how shock fluid goes through the various sized holes; but, I don't have a handle on that part of the issue.
Still Bill is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 02:49 AM
  #622  
Tech Master
 
TheCoolCanFanMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watford
Posts: 1,738
Default

Hi Guys
We now have a CoolCanFan for the PHi.
Please visit www.coolcanfan.com if you wish to purchase one or just to take a peak at our NEW website
Cheers Malc TCCFM
TheCoolCanFanMan is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 02:54 AM
  #623  
Tech Master
 
TheCoolCanFanMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watford
Posts: 1,738
Default

Originally Posted by POOKYT
Leave me alone!!!!! I'm busy stocking up on spare arms!!!!! LMAO

Brant
Pook
I hit the armco so hard at the weekend I thought not only were ALL the arms gona brake, but the chassis to but the NEW arms are realy strong THANK GOD!!
Malc TCCFM
TheCoolCanFanMan is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 04:11 AM
  #624  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 209
Default

Yeah the arms are good. I've had two big panics - a kid coming the wrong way around the track as i entered the sweeper on full throttle (19 turn). Only broke a steering block and I considered myself lucky.

Second was a big bounce over the kerb into the armco barrier - only popped a rear shock.

Cheers
Peter
Pedro 51 is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 04:27 AM
  #625  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
 
rcracenut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: WIS
Posts: 3,363
Trader Rating: 52 (96%+)
Default

Anyone have any good set ups for the phi for carpet/ rubber tire yet?
rcracenut is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 05:48 AM
  #626  
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,866
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcracenut
Anyone have any good set ups for the phi for carpet/ rubber tire yet?
I ran last weekend with Mike Nelson's Novak Race setup for the RDX, but with a spool... I ran the 1.3 pistons, but the car really needed the 1.1's.... the car drove awesome...
brians11 is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 10:15 AM
  #627  
Tech Master
 
Jeff Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,913
Default

Originally Posted by rcgen
I was checking the different setups and everyone was using the short wheelbase for an asphault setup. On the PHI the rear has two sets of holes for coupler clamps. I tried the placing the clamps on the first hole but that made the cvd joints were too much at an angle. So I tried the last set of holes and the cvds were inline with the diff. So for the short wheelbase are there two shims up front for the front arms and two shims on the rear for the rear arms?

Also, are the kit shock pistons the same size as the tamiya 3 hole?

We were not using the short position on the couplers. We had the shims in the shortest position. We have not tried the super short wheelbase. It would be the 2 shims in the back of the pins to shim the arm forward, shorter.

Jeff
Jeff Brown is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 10:18 AM
  #628  
Tech Master
 
Jeff Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,913
Default

Originally Posted by rcracenut
Anyone have any good set ups for the phi for carpet/ rubber tire yet?
Like brians11 mentioned, I would start with Mike Nelson's setup for the PHI.

Mike's car had the 2006 COMP SPEC chassis and CENTER POINT TOPDECK on the car, which makes the original RDX, the same as the PHI. It moves the batteries back and changes the steering.

Jeff
Jeff Brown is offline  
Old 06-13-2007, 10:30 AM
  #629  
Tech Master
 
Jeff Brown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,913
Default

Originally Posted by Still Bill
Applying the formula for area of a circle, the area of these holes would be:
1.3mm diameter hole is 1.327 square mm x 2 holes equals 2.654 square mm
0.8mm diameter hole is .503 square mm x 3 holes equals 1.509 square mm

BIG difference there! Think I got this right.

Maybe the stated larger gap around the outside of the Tamiya piston is the difference that makes the fluid flow more equal between the two pistons.

Sorry, I know that "fluid dynamics" also plays a part in how shock fluid goes through the various sized holes; but, I don't have a handle on that part of the issue.
Correct. It is a big change. It really effects the reaction and recovery of the car. Like for instance I had shocks with 30wt and 0.9mm pistons, but someone else had 35wt and 1.1mm pistons. I still have a stiffer dampening setup.

Jeff
Jeff Brown is offline  
Old 06-14-2007, 12:37 AM
  #630  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
jdm19turn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 404
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

i've been playing with the setup on my phi iam about 3/4 to 1 sec faster perlap than my old rdx the car is amazing...
jdm19turn is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.