imprsme

iTrader: (91)

Mike- I tried kick up with 2* caster blocks and liked it at the nats. It gave the car that extra High speed steering I was looking for.

Here was my Final set-up from the nats.

Front

2* cater blocks
1/2* toe out per side
2*camber
5.5mm ride height
med 5 arms
short wheelbase
F Coupler up
R coupler down
droop- 4 on AE gauge about 2mm above Ride height
no roll bar
f Coupler shim 3
r Coupler shim 2
40 wt oil with 1.3 pistons
19lb spring
middle hole on tower
Inner hole on arm
Camber link upper row middle hole

Rear

2* toe in
2* camber
6mm ride height
med. 5 arms
short wheelbase
F Coupler clamp up
R coupler clamp down
Droop- 4 on AE gauge or about 2mm above ride height
F coupler shim 0
R Coupler shim 2
40wt. oil 1.3 piston
17lb spring
one hole in on shock tower
outer hole on arm
camber link top row middle on tower
outer most hole on upright
Std. hexes all around


If I missed anything just ask.

R.Dalnogare

iTrader: (9)

Mike Blackstock or Josh, could one of you explain sway-bars to me. I'm always alittle lost when it comes to them and when to use them. Thanks

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

Ryan.

Swaybars are tricky lol. But i only use them outdoors when i want to control the roll since i am using very soft springs. Anytime i try them on foam they just make the car push to much for me. But what they do is control roll or make less roll.

Here is a good article explaining it...

Introduction
The purpose of anti-roll bars or sway bars, as they are sometimes known is often mis-understood. Like all other aspects of vehicle dynamics, you need to consider their effects in a logical manner.

What is an anti-roll bar?
A roll bar is essentially a spring, just like the ones over your shocks, but without the helical shape.A straight spring like this is known as a torsion spring. You can appreciate its effects by holding a rule firmly at one end and twisting the other end (gently). When twisted it bends, when you let go it returns to its original position - just like a helical spring.

So what does it do?
To see what the effect of adding a roll bar is, let's consider what happens when a car enters a corner with a rear roll bar attached; Normally (without roll bars) the car begins to roll, i.e. the outer suspension begins to compress and the inner suspension begins to lift. However, because we've linked the two sides with a roll bar, when the outer suspension compresses, (some of) the force is transferred to the inner suspension which prevents it lifting, even compressing it slightly (depending on the strength of the roll bar). In this way the roll bar reduces lateral roll, making the car less likely to roll-over. This is the first effect.
Secondly, due to the effects described above, as you enter the corner the suspension compresses more than normal, because the inside is being compressed as well as the outside. This makes the car sit lower, generating more grip.
Thirdly, when you reach the middle of the corner and the suspension has equalized, it is compressed less than normal, as some force has been absorbed by the roll bar itself, hence you have less grip. However, the weight is distributed more evenly over the wheels, so the car is better balanced, giving a smoother feel.

So in summary, you have less body roll, less rear grip (more steering), but a more consistent motion through the corner.

Putting a roll bar on the front has a similar, but opposite effect i.e. less steering, but more consistent cornering.

You can choose roll bars of different thicknesses, whereby a thicker roll bar has a more pronounced effect. See the table below for guidelines.

Guidelines for choosing anti-roll bars
FRONT: Increased thickness REAR: Increased thickness
Decreased steering response Increased steering into corners
Decreased front-end grip Decreased rear-end grip
Decreased chassis roll Decreased chassis roll


Hope this helps

Mike

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

question on my phi I am struggling to get rear grip on power out of the corners I have tried many different thing do you guys have any sug. on what i can do?

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

MICK.. post your setup so i can look. It could be something easy as lighter oil, lighter spring, or more rear toe or more rear camber.. But it is hard to say unless we know what you are running..


Mike

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Just wondering if you guys are posting these setups on the Corally site as well?

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

on rear
3% toe in
1%camber in
tamiya shocks w/
30 weight oil 2 hole standard pistons
xray whites 17
last hole out on tower, middle hole on arm (shocks)
roll block high on front low on rear
link low and second hole on tower middle hole on upright

front
o% toe
1%camber
4% caster
tamiya shock 30 weight 2 hole standard
middle hole tower, outer hole arm
roll blocks low
link low and out on tower stock ball studs
rp 32's
5mm height
5mm droop
if i missed anything let me know
i can go back to corally shocks if you think it would work better
all stock parts

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.. I would go back to flat low blocks in the rear.. I would also go to 1.5 of camber . I am not sure why you are having on power traction problems. This is the main thing we fight is too much traction..


I do not see anything else that is totally wrong. Are you sure there is not anything bent etc???

Also what wheel base ? When i ran super short wheel base i lost on power traction. But this was running mod..


Take a look at other peoples rubber setups on here and see if they are doing some more stuff that you are not doing.
Hope some of this helps.

Mike

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

standard wheelbase
dont think anything is bent everything looks good on my hudy setup station
some things i left out i am running brushless w/10.5,spool on front and rear diff very loose if i tighten the rear diff it gets really bad traction loss but only on power out of the corner,kinda lost ive tried evrything from super soft springs to diff shocks to diff toe, my last setup i used corally shocks with 3 hole and 20 weight and 12 pound springs that didnt even help

thanks Mike
Mick

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

if it helps here are a few pics of the track it has just been sealed using a special sealer w/some type of sand added

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=223215

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

hmm. Where is this track at . I am in Cleveland area and would die to run outdoors somewhere..

Anyways is everyone having this problem ??

Mike

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

it is in Belpre Ohio about 3 or less hours from you straight down I 77

no just a couple of guys

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

a couple team corally guys run here at times

imprsme

iTrader: (91)

Mick- The only suggestions I can see would be Droop,springs and camber link.
You say you are running 5mm in front but didn't give a rear droop. If that is 5mm above ride height that is alot of droop.

Also you didn't give a front shock spring, I had a problem with rear traction at an unpreped track a few months ago. Someone suggested a stiffer rear spring and that help alot. But I didin't go above 17lbs which you are running...

I was thinking along the same lines as you in softening the rear up, but I tried it and it was better with the stiff rear spring.

Also try lenghtening the rear camber link all the way long. Inside on tower and outside on upright.

mickrcarver

iTrader: (101)

front spring is an xray blue which i think is a 22 and i have 5mm droop rear ill try the links

Thanks