rchotrod

Ok, here is what i am running

Tc3, P2k, futaba Mag Jr., standard futaba receiver, novak cyclone tc, and a hitec digital servo.

Here is what is happening, I can practice without any problems.

It seems that the glitch will show up under full throttle accelerating and usually at the top end of the speed. But the glitch seems to come and go as it wishes.

I ran several practice rounds without a single hit, then during the heat races, the glitch would hit a few times.

I cleaned the motor before the main and tooks a few slow laps to check everything out right before the main started. Then took a couple hard laps. And all seemed well. When the main started, with 9 cars, the glitching was terrible, put me into the back wall at full speed. So I pulled the car and tried to see what was going on.

Well after the races were done, I went out with the exact same everything as the main, and ran the rest of the battery without a single hit.

AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

What in the world could be causing this. I sent novak an e-mail to see if possibly the bec could be going out on the speed control.

I keep the motor clean, I gear within reason, I have tried different radios(first a M8 then the Mag Jr), receivers, crystals, servos, motors. You name it.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,
Rod

70mph pan car

sometime i get a small glitch from my super rooster when i'm only 10ft away. and what is the range on a jr xr2 am radio? it seems to be very sort at 100-150ft is that because of the cold weather (outside)?

adrian

try putting new cryastals in, they take alot of shock from crashes, if this doesnt work a new reciver may be the go, look at all your conections, see if everythings insulated and neat, also nothings touching the chassis

racerb

iTrader: (2)

i had the exact same problem but I was using a motor that I had to solder the caps on it..and I have heard of the caps going bad on P2K's and other motors or maybe you lost one...anyways I re-soldered the cap back on and it worked without a glitch after that...

Graphitedust

Man....how I hate glitches......

Try:

Looking at the area where the battery bars come close to the sides of the chassis. If the battery bars or a metalic part of the cell rub on the chassis, metal is deposited over time and actually forms a crude capacitor or a ground. This is prevelant in graphite chassis's, especially graphite Associated B3's. Check the chassis for a grey wear spot.

If you've got a car you can rob electrical parts from, go item by item....

I have had problems recently with the circuit board-tpye capacitors on the Monster Stocks. Took it off and replaced it with three regular capacitors.....viola! No glitch. This was after I replaced the 357 servo, 2ch Airtronics rec, and put in a new LRP Competition.......

Graphitedust

I know this is easy to overlook, but when did you last replace the batteries in the radio? They will work great during practice with only a few guys on the stand. With a stand load of radios on, well...you radio is "competing" with other radios....just a thought.

Also, when is the last time you put brushes in or turned that motor? A motor in desperate need of maintainence will produce interference.

Graphitedust

I keep remembering things...sorry. Take a VERY close look at all the large-gauge wire, especially the red+ wire that runs from the speedcontrol to the motor. I had one that broke inside, without the insulation being damaged. The ends would touch/untouch from time to time.....talk about a weird glitch. This was offroad...every time I landed from a jump it would bog, then run fine. Soon, it got bad enough that it got hot and burned a hole through the insulation. Thats how I finally found it.

FROGGY

i'm having a problem with glitching but my problem seems to be caused by the new futaba radio. i have a ko ex1 (< 2 yrs old on 75mhz) and when i stand with in 10ft of the new futaba (75mhz) my car only glitches by the futaba directly in front of the drivers stand.i have tried 4 different frequencies and 2 different receivers with the same problem.this problem doesn't seem to bother the new mars-r or m-8's only older ko's and older airtronics

popsracer

rchotrod;

Ok, here are some things to check.

1) Have you recently up-graded to a Graphite chassis? This can be a source of glitching.

2) Your Motor may need the Com cut and the brushes replaced, also the Caps could be a problem, but less likely. DO NOT add extra caps to a motor. 3 is all you need MAX.

3) RX crystal, if you have had a bad hit on the Receiver side. Try a different set of cystals. A LOOSE crystal will also cause a glitch.

4) Adjacent channel interference. Sometimes when standing very close to someone else who is on an adjascent channel, this can cause a glitch. However, usually it is only right in front of the drivers stand when it happens.

5) Try to keep the antenna tube mount, right next to the receiver. Avoid running the wire along the chassis or next to any battery wires. With a Graphite chassis this is very important.

As a side note;
I had an HPI Pro-2 that I could NEVER get rid of the glitch. After MANY calls to various people at various companies, it was suggested that the Graphite in the chassis was causing the glitching. I verified this by moving my equipment to a different car and there was NO glitching what so ever.

rchotrod

The motor was fresh, new brushes(properly broken in), fresh comm, will have to try the caps though. I never liked the little smc caps anyway. Guess I will have to buy a bag of them and replace them often.

The chassis is graphite, FT tc3, And as you tc3 drivers know, space is tight for electronics. But I will try and insulate the batteries better and see what happens.

I plan to change radios and speed control again and try that.

I had a one way in and thought it was going out, but the glitch hits with the diff too. Boy don't ever have the glitches with a oneway, talk about a handfull.

Thanks for all the tips so far, and feel free to use this thread for your problem glitches.

Sometimes these glitches can drive you crazy. So far I am holding up well.

Thanks
Rod

wheelmanST

just another thought....i run a tc3 factory team with a novak gt-7...i had glitches like you until i did one simple thing...move the power cap on the speedo. i had the wires to the cap crossing over the reciever and thats what caused it. i guess the reciever was picking up current or static from the cap wires...dunno. i changed everything and i mean everything to fix the problem, and finally i tried moving the cap as far from the reciever and servo and their wires as i could. and its fixed...never glitched since. see my glitched would come and go too...but it usually did it in one or two spots on the track...wierd. maybe try to relocate the cap on the cyclone if possible...just a suggestion.

rchotrod

Yea, I'm changing the esc cap out too. Just trying to make sure I check everything.

So far I have switched back to the m8, and put the receiver(novak xxL) on its edge with the crystal up and next to the drive shaft. The antenna doesn't even come close to the chassis now, straight to the antenna tube. And I retied up the signal wires seperately so that I can remove components if needed.

Will recut the comm later this weekend and make sure the brushes are aligned and stay that way. And will tear apart the endbell and clean up the connections between the smc caps.
Will probably be the cleanest this motor has ever been.LOL

The battery is insulated from the chassis with the hook side of a strip of velcro. Seems to be working ok, it was like that when I got the car.


Thanks for the tips, I will keep you all informed as to what happens.

Rod

SegaBowMan

I had a glitch problem with the magnum junior too. The problem was that the crystal in the receiver wasn't pushed in all the way. it was a funny glitch though. sometimes when I hit full throttle, the car wouldn't move at all, then when I released and immediately hit it again, the car would go. I was able to do it on command too. slightly hit throttle, release, and then hit full throttle. it even happened in reverse. I don't know why but at least I fixed it.

ZER01

You could be real close to someones frequency. Try a differant channel, like if your on 75Mhz channel 75 go to 79 and see if that helps. Also, make sure you have the same brand crystals as your radio in your radio and receiver.

rchotrod

OK, here is what I have found......

1. A missing cap. During the last rebuild one of the smc caps must have dropped out while I was assembling the endbell, it has been replaced.

2. While I was replacing the cap, I discovered the heatsinks were not sitting flat on the endbell. The holes on the plastic were pulled out just alittle. That was not letting the heatsink make contact with the caps. I took a hobby knife and cleaned this up.

And I took a comm cleaner to the heatsink where the caps will make contact. Now the caps are making good contact and hopefully this will cure the glitch.

I won't get to go racing until march, I will let you all know what happens.

See Ya,
Rod