CRC's New Generation-X.... Your Thoughts?
#842
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
I cheated the system this week. I cracked an arm two weeks ago while threading it. I just threw it in my pit box. I ran the cutting screw into it to spread out the crack and ran some CA down in it. Put it on the car and ran it all day long. I'm thinking about cracking all of my arms with the thread screw. It seemed to work well. I ran the car hard all day (since the arm was already broke, I really didn't care) It reminded me just how much I love this car.
#843
I had a similiar problem and discovered it was the side links.. Do not use the RPM 1 piece side links as they are too tight and bind up the car. Stick with the stock ones. If it's not that, check to make sure your axle is centered and your steering throw is equal side to side. Also make sure motor wires are not limiting the movement of the rear pod. Make sure you have the same ride height spacers on each side.. Sounds silly but we've all done it
Originally Posted by Mart42
Ok guys,
I have a problem here.... My gen x is very loose on one side...like the car was tweak...The car as the same setup of the last race, where i set the TQ. In the final the king pin unscrewed and i finish 2nd. Only thing i do is: i change the kingpin in precaution and carefully put both kingpin the same lenght.
Here is what i do to try to solve the problem with no success:
-Check the car on the tweak board
-Check the front end, everything is free and seems to work well
-Put 2 brand new front springs
-Preload on front and side springs is good
-rebuilt side damper
-loose and tight the football pivot
-Try 3 different set of tire
Next step is to completly rebuit the car from the start, but maybe i miss to try something.
Thanks for your help guys.
I have a problem here.... My gen x is very loose on one side...like the car was tweak...The car as the same setup of the last race, where i set the TQ. In the final the king pin unscrewed and i finish 2nd. Only thing i do is: i change the kingpin in precaution and carefully put both kingpin the same lenght.
Here is what i do to try to solve the problem with no success:
-Check the car on the tweak board
-Check the front end, everything is free and seems to work well
-Put 2 brand new front springs
-Preload on front and side springs is good
-rebuilt side damper
-loose and tight the football pivot
-Try 3 different set of tire
Next step is to completly rebuit the car from the start, but maybe i miss to try something.
Thanks for your help guys.
#845
I didn't even know you were running them How have ya been? Got any more JRXS' laying around?
#846
the rpm side links work
only use white side springs
the binding gos away in no time
think, the chassis only moves side to side about 2mm
not the full motion of the rear pod.
when driving the rear pod dose not move,only the chassis.
any slop in the rear pod makes the car pushy iv found,
and unpredictable.
the more you run the rpm links the better they become.
the king pins,i screw them up all the way in them put the set screw in
lube the king pin with blue cap and put the springs on.
this gives about 1/2 to 1mm drop and its the same on both sides.
only use white side springs
the binding gos away in no time
think, the chassis only moves side to side about 2mm
not the full motion of the rear pod.
when driving the rear pod dose not move,only the chassis.
any slop in the rear pod makes the car pushy iv found,
and unpredictable.
the more you run the rpm links the better they become.
the king pins,i screw them up all the way in them put the set screw in
lube the king pin with blue cap and put the springs on.
this gives about 1/2 to 1mm drop and its the same on both sides.
#847
I started off with the RPM side links and noticed a drastic change going to stock. Been using the stock ones for 4 weeks. If you don't hit, I guess you don't need the RPM side links In order for the chassis to move it needs to be free where it connects to the rear pod. Motor wires too tight or rubbing against the damper tubes or whatever else will cause binding. You seem to be pro RPM.. I think the links suck. Then again, that's my opinion and what do I know..
#848
this is what im saying its free to the amount of chassis movement.
but hey what ever work for you to have fun.
but hey what ever work for you to have fun.
#849
Tech Apprentice
Did I ever say how much I love this car...
#850
love this car so much i dont want to run it outside
indoor only,
indoor only,
#851
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
love this car so much i dont want to run it outside
indoor only,
indoor only,
As for the slop with the stock side links, can some of it be removed by adding o-rings under the links to lift them? We do this in Touring car to tighten-up the links without losing the "freeness".
#852
I just change the link rod every once in a wile...
maybe try some suran-wrap over the ball stud...
maybe try some suran-wrap over the ball stud...
#853
i tried these things but i dident like the car
went back to the rpm links and it great
it kinda like having a sway bar on 1/12
i know its weird but it works for me
the 1st 2mm free then it starts to stiffen up,but when you drive the car it never really gos past this point.
with the stock links the car when you turn suddenly has a tendency to dig in and scrub speed.so for the way i drive it works good.
went back to the rpm links and it great
it kinda like having a sway bar on 1/12
i know its weird but it works for me
the 1st 2mm free then it starts to stiffen up,but when you drive the car it never really gos past this point.
with the stock links the car when you turn suddenly has a tendency to dig in and scrub speed.so for the way i drive it works good.
#854
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
with the stock links the car when you turn suddenly has a tendency to dig in and scrub speed.so for the way i drive it works good.
Jack
#855
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
try using the rpm center links,part # 70892