stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I have one on order, so I'll report back as soon as I get it. I do recommend the kydex bumper. Calandra makes it and I haven't snapped an arm since putting it on. I agree that it was always a scrub with the corner that ripped mine off of the car and always at the front screw. I did break one in a hard crash after a screw fell out of the side link. (This, btw, will give your car very good initial steering ) I still love the car.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

I wonder if drilling out the holes in the arm before you pre thread it would help, it might be just spreading the plastic too much when threaded, maybe some one could measure the hole before it's threaded... Associated arms are app. .147 inches, or 3.70 mm, before threading...
Maybe some gentle boiling like the olden days would make them more forgiving....

odpurple

If you are "pre-threading" the arm with the screw then you are not cutting threads, you are forcing the screw in and spreading the hole which may break the part. Use an 8/32 tap to prep the hole, something that has worked well on the AE front end for a long time.

Team CRC

iTrader: (1)

Hi Gang,

Great to see all this talk about the Gen-X, both the positive and the "constructive critism" on any possible issues. We have been very busy trying to keep up with the high demand for the car and the front end, we appreciate all the support.

Over the last week, we made some good sized shipments to distributors and some dealers, here and overseas. If your dealer has a car on backorder with Horizon, good chance you will see it very soon. Also, quality online shops like Stormer and Ashford should have cars in stock soon. More shipments in the coming days and weeks.

Parts... basically, all Gen-X parts are in stock here at CRC, if a distributor or dealer is out, they either have not ordered recently or have parts on the way.

Front arm - we have been following internet discussions, e-mails and input regarding the lower arm.

A couple quick notes, we have noticed less issues on the lower arm when using the 3 mm spacer instead of the red washers. Also, we have pre-threaded many, many arms and we only see crack when the steel cut screw is run in so deep the the countersink angle begins to open the hole, therefore cracking the arm. You can use an 8-32 tap, (although it is not necessary), however, if you do, do not tap all the way through the arm, leave some uncut material for the screw to bite into.

With all that being said... CRC's on site test track features weekly road racing on a very tight and technical road course. We have 30 - 40 1/12th scale racers of varying abilities, from National Champions to new racers. Of the average 35 1/12th cars, 30 are Gen X cars with the new front end. I think we went about 4 weeks straight with no failures. Not one arm nor front end part broke from any driver.

However, there are obviously some concerns and we are listening. CRC will continue to test and develope the front end, concentrating on the lower arm, design, material, durability and performance. We appreciate the support and input.

It would have been easy for us to throw the "same ole-same ole" front end on our car, or use the outdated, non-adjustable old skool front end, but we wanted to offer a high performance, adjustable, user-friendly design to push pan cars to new levels of technology. The Pro Strut front end is the result, the first pivot-ball front end for a pan car. With this new technology, we may have a bump or two in the road. Rest assured, we are listening and you can bet we are testing and racing so we can improve the products we offer.

We have an idea situation... on site test facillity with 35 "everyday racers", the CNC machine shop within 50 feet of the test track ( we can literally make new parts between qualifying rounds!) and a experienced, talented staff of racers. Look for continuous improvements in the entire product line... thanks again for the support.

Team CRC

blue247carz

[QUOTE=Scottrik]As far as I'm concerned, DON'T try moving the servo--its location is pretty well fixed. The center of the servo output needs to line up with the chassis centerline. Period.

Your esc, though small, probably weighs more than your receiver. I run my esc's on the side the servo doesn't extend to and my my receiver on the side with "more servo".

If it's leaning I'd agree that implies the front end isn't built evenly. On the front ends of my Carpet Knives I've found that the IRS lowered bottom arms have about .020 difference in the height they hold the lower pivot balls. I'd gone on the blind assumption that since they were machining the molded part it would be even. Bad assumption. So I ended up chasing a similar uneveness for a lot longer than I care to admit, thinking the whole time I must have the kingpins shimmed wrong, etc.

I'll e-mail you that sheet.

Scottrik



Cheers Scottrik, Have you ever tried to balance the car with just a motor and cells in place? I'm just wondering if the car balances up even before you start adding the servo, speedo and reciever bits. I may have a go...

I have measured the lower arms on my gen x and they are machined evenly, I suppose this is because they are not sided so there is only one design of arm cut.

On the other hand the kingpin design is more difficult to measure accurately, I have been measuring it by placing my hudy 10mm spacers underneath the axle's "wheels off" and measuring ride height.

I'll play some more...

Cheers Paul

seabass2500

iTrader: (17)

I have issues with the lower front arms and it can be very discouraging sometimes. I have not questioned the quality and vision of the car overall. It is just extremely reassuring, after dedicating so much time and money into a car, to see the company (CRC) being attentive and solution oriented to the concerns of their customers.

Thanks for listening Calandra, we hope to hear more soon.

Clay

acyrier

iTrader: (8)

I'll be trying a set of the CF ride height shim tonight. Also, we didn't thread the SS screw all the way to the in, I'd say it was about 1/2 way in when the hole popped. We've since used a tap and havn't had that problem again. Another guy told me to cut a "slit" in teh SS screw, and it will act somewhat like a tap vs a screw. If you don't have access to a tap, but be worth trying.

ToddFalkowski

iTrader: (2)

Glad CRC is listening... I race at Michiana as well (Aaron "acyrier"'s track- michianarc.com) and have sheared off some of the ones he's talking about. I didn't notice the perosity (air pockets) someone mentioned in the one dangling from my car now, but did note that the breaks left the screws exposed (if that makes sense). Last hit was pretty soft- one I felt shouldn't have broke. And, I do think it's interesting that Seabass mentioned the "replacements" seem to break easier- I was kinda thinking the same thing.

Thanks to CRC, though for listening.

Team CRC

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the nice words... since all of us here at CRC are true racing addicts, you can count on non-stop efforts to improve all the products, all the while, implementing new technology and materials in our designs.

Some other Gen X notes.... in the near future, we will be releasing titanium king pins and titanium screws for the front end. Also, a cool new left bulkhead that you can put a brushless in the car without touching a screw. With this new bulkhead you can also install a stock motor with a 38 pinion on it without removing or loosening a screw, lots of room.

Later this season, we set to release a super low, super sleek Audi R8C racing body. This body is custom fit for the super low Gen X bulkheads, making it one of the lowest bodies available. Also, the new Audi will feature dimpled marks for easy mounting on a Gen-X.

Some of the staff is heading to the Birds early next week, of course we will have other staff members at the office to handle any orders or issues. Thanks again.

Team CRC

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Saaawwwweeeettt! You're the man Frank! I'll be making another order here very soon...

-Korey

seabass2500

iTrader: (17)

Now it's that kind of attitude that makes a customer loyal!

Thanks Frank and the rest of Team Calandra.


*** A tip if it has not been mentioned before, if you use the graphite spacers, you need to grind down the graphite a little so it doesn't stress the lower arm when you tighten down the screws. The caster screws sit down just a bit. That will help you from tweaking the front end. Don't countersink the screws more or you are loosing strength.

wallyedmonds

you should counter sink the screws more so the arms sit on the graphite spacers flush, and its realy nice to see CRC doing such a super fine job

Lextek

So you guys are saying to use the graphite ride height spacers (CRC 3236) in stead of the red aluminum spacers? Wouldn't raise the front end? How would you compensate?

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Haven't tried the graphite spacer yet, but smaller tires would correct the ride height issue.

SuperRooster

The graphite ride height spacer is thinner than the aluminum ones that come with the kit. Using the graphite spacer will actually put the front arms lower on the chassis. You should have no problem making ride height when using the graphite spacers and the plastic ride height spacers from CRC.

I also have not broken a front arm since switching to the graphite spacer.


-Anthony