Batteries on ICE???
#1
Batteries on ICE???
I know it's not the best way, but due to my busy race schedule (other nitro cars) I only get chance to charge my batteries the night before racing.
It works ok for me and I am presently leading my local club points standing. However in an effort to get more efficiency out of my XXX-S with a 5.5R BLM, I was thinking of placing my IB 4200's in the freezer overnight after I charge them and keep them on ICE at the track till my races come up.
Do you think this will keep my overall temps down in a 5 min main and provide more power?
Can this work? Has anyone tried it? Will it damage the battery?
Your comments please.
It works ok for me and I am presently leading my local club points standing. However in an effort to get more efficiency out of my XXX-S with a 5.5R BLM, I was thinking of placing my IB 4200's in the freezer overnight after I charge them and keep them on ICE at the track till my races come up.
Do you think this will keep my overall temps down in a 5 min main and provide more power?
Can this work? Has anyone tried it? Will it damage the battery?
Your comments please.
#3
Originally Posted by sportpak
How about trying to charge them 90% the night before, then peak them 10 minutes before your heat. I may be wrong, but I believe the heat cycle is part of their performance. Somebody could maybe explain it in better detail.
I know that heat sucks power, therefore I was thinking if I can keep the batteries very cool this should help somewhat?????
#6
I just bought some new IB4200 and it says on the pack that they work better at a warmer temp (can't remember offhand what the temp was).
Remember that batteries use a chemical reaction to release their energy, and chemical reactions happen slower and slower as the temp gets lower, so no freezing or cooling your packs won't help.
I usually charge the night before and then just repeak my packs before my race, works for me.
Remember that batteries use a chemical reaction to release their energy, and chemical reactions happen slower and slower as the temp gets lower, so no freezing or cooling your packs won't help.
I usually charge the night before and then just repeak my packs before my race, works for me.
#8
Originally Posted by sportpak
I knew somebody would have a good explination of temperature of a battery. A dude at my place freezes his motors and he is frickin' fast.
#9
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the info.
I guess I will need to start walking with my charger to the track.
But my question is, when you Re-Peak what amp should it be at? the same 5 amps or lower? (Duratrax ICE)
Thanks for all the info.
I guess I will need to start walking with my charger to the track.
But my question is, when you Re-Peak what amp should it be at? the same 5 amps or lower? (Duratrax ICE)
#10
IB cells tend to make the most power when they're warm - freezing them would not be a good thing. Many people use warming trays to keep their IB packs warm after the charge cycle completes.
#11
Originally Posted by BigDaddyT
IB cells tend to make the most power when they're warm - freezing them would not be a good thing. Many people use warming trays to keep their IB packs warm after the charge cycle completes.
Ohh... Good thing I asked.
Thanks man!
#12
I am not sure if your series allows them but Li-Po packs can be charged days in advance without any perfromance loss. Also NiMH batteries do not like the extreme cold or extreme heat this is why there are cooling discharge trays and battery warmers for chargers when used in colder climates.
#13
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the info.
I guess I will need to start walking with my charger to the track.
But my question is, when you Re-Peak what amp should it be at? the same 5 amps or lower? (Duratrax ICE)
Thanks for all the info.
I guess I will need to start walking with my charger to the track.
But my question is, when you Re-Peak what amp should it be at? the same 5 amps or lower? (Duratrax ICE)
If it's more than 10 mins (or overnight!) then use the same settings as you use to charge.