Home Made Batteries?!
02-07-2003, 05:00 PM
#1
Home Made Batteries?!
Eh' i heard alot about soldering batteries for electric cars. Whats the point? and whats it do for ur car n stuff?
BTW: I am new to the forum, and to elec.
BTW: I am new to the forum, and to elec.
02-07-2003, 05:57 PM
#2
Soldering cells side by side, or saddle instead of a stick pack will reduce the resistance of the pack.
Inside a stick pack, there are small metal tabs that are "welded" to the cell, but it does not provide as good of a contact as a battery bar, and a goold solder job.
Building your own packs can also lower the CG, as the side x side battery format generally lowers the battery, one of the heaviest components on the car, about 2mm, since most chassis are slotted for the cells.
-Troy
Inside a stick pack, there are small metal tabs that are "welded" to the cell, but it does not provide as good of a contact as a battery bar, and a goold solder job.
Building your own packs can also lower the CG, as the side x side battery format generally lowers the battery, one of the heaviest components on the car, about 2mm, since most chassis are slotted for the cells.
-Troy
02-07-2003, 06:00 PM
#3
It seems as though most of the "high end" cells are just that...cells. You must solder them together to make a pack. In some cases it is almost a must I belive since I havn't seen a lot of pre-made saddle packs. Although Pro-match will assmeble your packs for you for a extra 6 bucks. Hope that helps 
02-07-2003, 06:16 PM
#4
Originally posted by TSR6
Building your own packs can also lower the CG, as the side x side battery format generally lowers the battery, one of the heaviest components on the car, about 2mm, since most chassis are slotted for the cells.
Building your own packs can also lower the CG, as the side x side battery format generally lowers the battery, one of the heaviest components on the car, about 2mm, since most chassis are slotted for the cells.
What the FUDGE does that mean?! lol like i said im new to elec, english please hehe.Aight, my new Q after learning about these. Can i make myself a nice 6 cell pack for my HPI sprint? And is it hard to do? Got any links to a guide of some sort?
02-07-2003, 06:17 PM
#5
heh i forgot my manners- Thanx for the info!!!!!
02-07-2003, 07:20 PM
#6
If your using an HPI sprint don't waste your time with soldering and side by side packs. Just stick to the non matched 3000mAh stick packs and tamiya connectors. You'll never notice the difference and you'll save money in order to purchase a higher end car. By then you should have more experience to take advantage of all the "racer" tricks.
If your looking for batteries go to www.promatchracing.com they have great prices on 3000 and 3300 mAh staick packs.
If your looking for batteries go to www.promatchracing.com they have great prices on 3000 and 3300 mAh staick packs.
02-07-2003, 07:44 PM
#7
Ya u got a good point there.............. Mabye i will just stick wit the 6 cell pacs for my stock class racing... come to think of it u cant even run home made's in stock can ya?
02-07-2003, 07:50 PM
#8
Yes you can run "home made" packs in stock class. As long as the cells are legal it doesn't matter who built the pack
02-09-2003, 10:40 AM
#9
ooooo, interesting I got a plan all figured out! Im gonna stick wit racing my sprint for now, and mabye after or in the middle of this racing season ill start saven for a xxx-s or a TC3! 
Thanx for the info guys
I got a plan all figured out! Im gonna stick wit racing my sprint for now, and mabye after or in the middle of this racing season ill start saven for a xxx-s or a TC3! Thanx for the info guys
02-09-2003, 06:36 PM
#10
If you are running sportsman, the only change you should make with your stick packs, is to replace the white tamiya-style connectors with Deans, Power-Pole, or other low-loss connectors.
Tamiya plugs have a tendency to melt, and fuse together.
Tamiya plugs have a tendency to melt, and fuse together.
02-10-2003, 11:54 AM
#11
EEK!! Ur telling me they MELT and get stuck together? Well in dat case i guess i should replace em! Can u tell me 1 thing tho? Witch one a those conectors you listed is best, and what do i do, just rip off the tamiya plugs???
Ur telling me they MELT and get stuck together? Well in dat case i guess i should replace em! Can u tell me 1 thing tho? Witch one a those conectors you listed is best, and what do i do, just rip off the tamiya plugs???
02-10-2003, 12:00 PM
#12
Generally it melts with mod motors, But with older, loose connectors, I did manage to melt a set with a Trinity X-star motor, in a Pro2.
I prefer the Deans connectors.
I prefer the Deans connectors.
02-10-2003, 12:59 PM
#14
Regional Moderator
Definitely go with the Deans if you are going to use connectors intead of direct soldering. Also, you may want to look into buying some used matched packs from the more experienced racers. They can be re-soldered into a saddle configuration if they are side by side. there are instructions for mounting a saddle pack in your manual and it does help get the center of gravity a bit lower.
Since you are going to continue to play with your sprint for a bit, you may want to do a few things like replace some of those solid links in the suspension with turnbuckles. you don't need titanium just threaded rods and rod ends. It will help to set the car up to drive a little easier. you can probably replace all of them for less than 20 if you don't use Ti rods.
Before you buy a Losit or TC3. replace that radio that came with your kit with a better one. I went the same route as you and bought a sprint then bought a radio then a losi XXX-S. The radio made a big difference because you are able to fine tune your maximum throttle to keep your finger from overpowering the car. I also got tired of bumping the little knobs and knocking my setpoints around. I bought a Futaba Magnum Racer. I just liked the feel of it and it had all the features I wanted.
Don't spend too much on your sprint but do make the few changes to the rods and get help from local drivers on setting it up and make it more driveable.
Since you are going to continue to play with your sprint for a bit, you may want to do a few things like replace some of those solid links in the suspension with turnbuckles. you don't need titanium just threaded rods and rod ends. It will help to set the car up to drive a little easier. you can probably replace all of them for less than 20 if you don't use Ti rods.
Before you buy a Losit or TC3. replace that radio that came with your kit with a better one. I went the same route as you and bought a sprint then bought a radio then a losi XXX-S. The radio made a big difference because you are able to fine tune your maximum throttle to keep your finger from overpowering the car. I also got tired of bumping the little knobs and knocking my setpoints around. I bought a Futaba Magnum Racer. I just liked the feel of it and it had all the features I wanted.
Don't spend too much on your sprint but do make the few changes to the rods and get help from local drivers on setting it up and make it more driveable.
02-10-2003, 01:08 PM
#15
Regional Moderator
oops forgot a few other things.
replace that piece of crap servo saver with a kimbrough unit. they are like 10 bucks. I found that the stock unit was so weak that at full throttle, the force of cornering was more than the spring could handle and one or more of three things would happen. the car wouldn't turn at all, the turn was very delayed, coming out of the turn on power would keep the wheels locked at full turn.
my first time at the track we ended up gluing the saver together just to let me drive. of course after about two smacks against the boards I popped the cheap servo. replaced it with a JR Z590M for about 35 bucks. BIG improvement.
The thing to keep in mind is that things like the steering servo, radio, batteries, esc, wheels can be transferred to whatever car you move up to so buying them one at a time to spread the cost out is a good investment.
replace that piece of crap servo saver with a kimbrough unit. they are like 10 bucks. I found that the stock unit was so weak that at full throttle, the force of cornering was more than the spring could handle and one or more of three things would happen. the car wouldn't turn at all, the turn was very delayed, coming out of the turn on power would keep the wheels locked at full turn.
my first time at the track we ended up gluing the saver together just to let me drive. of course after about two smacks against the boards I popped the cheap servo. replaced it with a JR Z590M for about 35 bucks. BIG improvement.
The thing to keep in mind is that things like the steering servo, radio, batteries, esc, wheels can be transferred to whatever car you move up to so buying them one at a time to spread the cost out is a good investment.