RC12L4 PROBLEMS AND QUESTIONS
#1
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
RC12L4 PROBLEMS AND QUESTIONS
I hope this is the right forum and really need some help.. I have just started racing 12th Scale and I am having a few issues with setup.. To be honest the real problem is that I cannot get the thing to stop wandering down the straights and any slight movement of the steering and the thing spears off.. It is incredibly hard to drive and I will definitely say I am not by any means a bad driver at all... Although I do feel like it at the moment..
The gear I am running - Servo is a brand new high speed KO micro Digital Servo, Radio Gear is a KO Helios and micro receiver, Novak GTX ESC, LRP Fusion 10x2...
Now tracks I am running on a generally slightly dusty low to mid grip tracks.. It just has sooooo much steering it is not funny, i mean so twitchy its crazy.. I know 12th scale ARE generally a challenge to drive and are notoriously twitchy at the best of times but it is so frustrating as I cannot keep the thing straight lined down the straight.. I have set the steering curve to around -30% AND THE novak esc set to its smoothest profile (Profile 7) and even had the steering travel right the way down to minimum at a value of 20.. It does not appear to be helping at all and it is still incredibly wavery down the straight and even in longer mid track areas... Setup is generally box standard at the moment....
WHAT CAN I DO????? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED ANY MORE DETAILS AND I WILL LET YOU KNOW ASAP... If its easier please email me [email protected]
The gear I am running - Servo is a brand new high speed KO micro Digital Servo, Radio Gear is a KO Helios and micro receiver, Novak GTX ESC, LRP Fusion 10x2...
Now tracks I am running on a generally slightly dusty low to mid grip tracks.. It just has sooooo much steering it is not funny, i mean so twitchy its crazy.. I know 12th scale ARE generally a challenge to drive and are notoriously twitchy at the best of times but it is so frustrating as I cannot keep the thing straight lined down the straight.. I have set the steering curve to around -30% AND THE novak esc set to its smoothest profile (Profile 7) and even had the steering travel right the way down to minimum at a value of 20.. It does not appear to be helping at all and it is still incredibly wavery down the straight and even in longer mid track areas... Setup is generally box standard at the moment....
WHAT CAN I DO????? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED ANY MORE DETAILS AND I WILL LET YOU KNOW ASAP... If its easier please email me [email protected]
#3
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
you need to make sure you set the tweak.you do this with the tweak screws on the t bar.next you should make sure that your rear pod is level and not sagging down in the front.make sure that you dont have a ton of toe out in the front.i usually run mine at 0 degrees or just a slight bit of toe out.suace the full rear tire and only the inside quarter of the front.
#4
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
Im treating the full rear tire now although wouldnt doing the front give me MORE steering? Or is it one of those crazy reverse things where common sense is thrown out the window...
Toe out? It wont make the car have a tendency to get more steering?
Toe out? It wont make the car have a tendency to get more steering?
#7
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
I wish I could give you this thing to drive and setup.. When you say set right, is it really just the tweak that is the real culprit? Stearing is so inconsistent... I mean its impossible to drive around the track.. Should I run the harder or softer T-Bar.. When you say set right, what else can I adjust so it fixes it other than tweak (given that the tweak is correct)..
#8
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
the way i set the tweak is i put a penny on each of the front wheels,i lift the car with an exacto knife at dead center of the front.slowly lift it and when both pennies fall at exactly the same time,the tweak is set.you will want a .063 T plate with a slight bit of 5000 wt 1/8th diff oil on the damper washers.run your tires a little bigger than usual at maybe 1.900 rear and 1.800 front for more side bite.make sure the pod is level by checking the front and rear of the pod with your ride height gauge.
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
check out this site
www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com
it will get you going on the right track
on your set up what tires are you using
what front springs
www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com
it will get you going on the right track
on your set up what tires are you using
what front springs
#10
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
That tweak guide is excellent... A lot more than I knew.. Thanks so much..
I am using JACO PURPLES on the Front and on the Rear JACO Pinks..
Front springs are standard kit springs.. The car is box standard and pulls like a complete bitch. ha sorry its very frustrating to say the least.. makes me hate even driving it actually
I am using JACO PURPLES on the Front and on the Rear JACO Pinks..
Front springs are standard kit springs.. The car is box standard and pulls like a complete bitch. ha sorry its very frustrating to say the least.. makes me hate even driving it actually
#11
make sure you space your rear axle correctly. check the diff to make sure it isn't "locked" down.
#12
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
ahh the diff!!! ok, will do
#13
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
My L4 was doing this the other day also. I think the T-bar maybe was a little fractured and I couldn't tell. After the third qualifier both ends had snapped off. After replacing it went straight again. A guy had told me earlier if the tbar gets wowed or whatever it will wander like that, I guess he was right.
I also put a little bit of Q-tip fuzz in the top of my ballcups to take out any slop in them. Replace them if it's to sloppy.
To set my toe I draw a straight line down the center of a paper, then another straight line 90* to that line where your front axels would be. Then set the chassis on one line and line the holes in the front/rear of the chassis on that line. And you can eyeball the axels down to the second perpendicular line to get 0*
I also put a little bit of Q-tip fuzz in the top of my ballcups to take out any slop in them. Replace them if it's to sloppy.
To set my toe I draw a straight line down the center of a paper, then another straight line 90* to that line where your front axels would be. Then set the chassis on one line and line the holes in the front/rear of the chassis on that line. And you can eyeball the axels down to the second perpendicular line to get 0*
#14
something in the steering could be bound up ever so slightly. this would cause the servo to constantly try to recenter itself and it might slid past that tight spot but recenter and slide back over it.
-Zac
-Zac
#15
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
I am going to check it all!!! The steering doesnt seem at all bound as when I remove the servo saver or even the turnbuckles completely the rotate freely in the steering blocks... But I will recheck it as well as completely redoing the car altogether with a new T-Bar and check the tweak and measure everything perfectly...