Switch Blade

Hello, i just ordered my 1/12 scale trinity switch blade, and am looking at getting a charger and new batteries. My choises for chargers are:
LRP Pulsar
Novak Millenium Pro

I like the Pulsars ability to breaking motors, power comm lathes charge, discharge, and cycle. If i get it could i use an automotive 12 volt battery to power the charger?
Im considering the Millenium with the black box, because it is a fraction of the cost, but with out motor run in, cycling, discharging, ability to power lathes

Also i have a futaba ESC(the 20T one)and am going to mainly race stock. If i build a battery pack, and charge it with the aligator clips, could i then solder the tamiya plugs to the battery so i could use it with the futaba ecs.

Thanx

Cole Trickle

Get rid of thoose Tamiya plugs - theres too much power loss in them. Deans connectors or something similar are good.

Why not get the Duratrax Intellipeak Digital Pulse Charger? It charges at 0,5-6,5 amps, got a power supply include and also supports 12 V DC (car battery). It discharges at 10 or 2 amps. Digital readout. NiMh and NiCd. Around 110 $. There's a review on this site under "Product Reviews".

Switch Blade

i will need the features of the pulsar in the future, like motor run in, power comm lathes, power dc soldering irons....so ur saying i can do what i explained???

Quote"Also i have a futaba ESC(the 20T one)and am going to mainly race stock. If i build a battery pack, and charge it with the aligator clips, could i then solder the tamiya plugs to the battery so i could use it with the futaba ecs.Quote"

Im a little scepticle about changing connectors, because it would void the warrenty, but if i do i would use the trinity connectors(i think they sell them)

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

I suggest the Pulsar for charger. However, i do not recommend using an automotive battery for a power supply. Do yourself a favor and get a 10 amp power supply or something like it. I also agree with Cole that you should definitely get rid of those tamiya plugs. They will eventually over time get dirty and develop high resistance and melt together. I have seen this happen. If you want to use plugs, i suggest Dean's Ultra Plug. They have less or equal to the same length of 12 gauge wire, and they won't melt on you. Switch Blade and Cole, the duratrax intellipeak will do all those things as you said, but its charging methods are not good for NiMH batteries. It uses pulse charging which is fine for NiCD cells but is not good for NiMH over the long run. If you want your cells to last you a decent amount of time, get a good charger like the pulsar, millenium, or CE pit bull.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

A good power supply will prove to be a much "cleaner" source of power. You won't get the voltage variance that you will get from a car battery. Plus, Who wants to lug around a car battery to the track?

A 10-amp power supply would be fine. You could draw up to 10 amps total, or 5 amps between two chargers should you get another charger in the future.

Tamiya-Style plugs - As you plug and unplug them, the connections become a little looser, having less contact between the plugs, resistance goes up, and sooner or later, you might melt the plugs. Deans or Power Pole connectors would be a better choice. I prefer deans.

The Pulsar is a GREAT charger, and I have not had problems running lathes and motors off it ( I don't own one personally, I just borrow one occasionally while I have both my chargers running. ). The only thing I have heard about them, is the motor run voltage can vary, which isnt the best thing. It still gets the job done, But, not the way some serious racers want it done..

-Troy

Switch Blade

i haven't found a 10 volt power suppy exept for a hobbico one on tower for like $70....would this be sufficient????

Thank u

CaptnKrunch

Hi Switch Blade.... do a search on ebay for power supply .. you'll find a few that I think will suit your needs at a much lower price

Switch Blade

i went to ebay. gezzz i have no idea where to start....all the power supplies seem to be for computers....ill just ask my LHS on a good power supply

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Switch - Check out S&N Trackside, I know they have power supplies that will fit your needs there.

You want at least 10 amps, not 10volts.. You want 12volts

Novak N-Power is a good choice.

-Troy

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

The novak N-power is good, but it's a bit pricey for what you get. The Hobbico 10 amp one is a good value and will work well. Also, try www.integy.com and look through their power supplies. Integy has some good ones.

CGR

N power is over priced. $100+ and only 10A

I got an eagle 14 amp (17A max) for $100 from stormer, I think integy imports/distributes these.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Just a note, My N-power puts out about 11amps. I've had a motor draw, and im guessing, but somewhere around 11.3 - 11.5 amps.

I do agree though, it is a little pricey, but its small, light, and does get the job done.

Im looking for a cheap computer power supply to modify. If i can get one with at least 15amps, for around $30, i'de be happy. I hear its easy to find 'em.

Cole Trickle

Pulse charging; I find that people in general dont like pulse charging. But I've never seen any evidence about it. And personal, I get good results with pulse charging, both with NiCd and NiMh.

Motor run in and comm lathe supply; With a few cells from your older training packs, you got a nice supply for lathes and motor run-in. So if this is the only reason for getting the Pulsar, it's a quite expensive solution.

However, I find that the matching features are really nice.

Power supply; If money matters, you could start out with a computer supply. Later you can get something better if you want. Guide to computer power supply conversion: http://www.magicookie.com/prodigy/psupply.htm

If money is not that much of a concern, I would go for something like the N-power or LRP's switched mode power supply. 13,8 volt and 12 amps.

RC Nitro

Rivergate makes a great power supply. I use a 30 amp model as I drive a Turbo Dyno also. They make a 15 amp model in the same price range as the Novak. However I have pulled 35 amps from my rivergate and I can get 14V if needed. Rivergate

Switch Blade

HEHEHE...now that i think about it, ill have lots of 4 cell packs around to power lathes, and breakin motors, so i quess im going to get the novak with black box