bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Got a quick question..what is minimum drive? I have my GTB set at factory defaults. The breaks and dead band is good for me but, my take off is a little sketchy. I initially thought it was glitching, but have come to the conclusion it is my "minimum drive" setting. When I hit the throttle, the car moves a little and after a second or two lag, takes off like a bat out of hell. That is all well and good for outdoor/asphalt, but with winter approaching, going indoors on a smaller track, that aint gonna cut it. Could someone help me out. Oh, the motor is a 4.5.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I just ran the 4.5 for the first time this past weekend at the KOGP. It does have incredible punch and torque. Minimum drive is what percentage of throttle you get as soon as you touch the throttle. I'm not sure what the factory setting on profile 1 is, but I know when I switched to profile 3, the car got much better and more drivable. I think profile 3 sets it to 2%.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

So in essence, that little bit of sputtering that I am getting when I stab the throttle will be reduced and possibly go away? Great. The set-up menu isn't as simple as the Mamba system and I didnt want to jack it up. I usually have to play catch up and that won't cut it on smaller tracks indoors. Thanks.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, profile 1 is the factory default and it's very touchy, especially with a 4.5 in it. The instructions will show you how to change the profile to 3 (I can't remember off the top of my head right now) but it's pretty simple. It'll make the car easier to drive and not so darty. (Is that even a word? )

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

Check the manual. www.teamnovak.com. Link to drive settings is http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...rg_gearing.pdf

PS sounds like you may have a voltage dip problem. Suggest checking out Novak brushless threads. Lots and lots and lots of info (start last page and work backwards). You may need a cap.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Now here is the kicker...I am running the cap that came with it and just upgraded to Li-Po (MaxAmps 6000Mah). Prior to that, I was running IB3800's with a mini cell pack (like the oval and pan guys). It was basically the same thing. I have the instructions but before I went in there and started tinkering, I wanted to ensure I had some advice from some experienced cats. I guess I got spoiled from my Mamba, either mild, fast, insane or "plaid". The Novak seems to be a bit more advanced and the instructions are written for those that know what the settings actually mean (my last ESC was a dually and that was easy as 3.14). Thanks for your help and any additional tips you fellas can provide.

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, I realized later I should have been more specific.

The Novak has a capacitor (big black thingy connected to red and black).

However, your receiver may also need one. The brushless 4.5 pulls massive amps and can dip receiver voltage too low. I have spektrum and I can make it stutter or quit momentarily. Before spektrum I had 5 year old AM radio system and it was terrible for things like that, including glitch and hesitate. Now I try to keep my transmitter volts above 11.4 or so since that helps (makes it more likely the receiver picks up the signal). As my battery dies it is most prone to kick out momentarily on me.

Yeah the Novak is kind of technical. However I like that kind of stuff. When I called their tech support I was glad they seemed to know their equipment plus could explain it pretty well.

Hope it works out. Let us know.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

You guys hit everything on the head...

I went to profile three...much smoother. Felt like an 8 single on the take off and accelerated very rapidly to 4.5 mode .

I too am running a spektrum. Was running the Xr3 before I posted this hang-up. Car was much more receptive and less touchy. That being said, I noticed that when the volts got in the neighborhood of 11.2 (rechargeables, they get in the 11v and stay there forever), there were moments where the car wouldn't repsond. I mean flat out sit there. Time to upgrade my cells.

Aside of that, the skittery glitching I had before now seems to have subsided. Good looking out!

sepirts

I've got an M11 w/ Spektrum Pro. I use the micro rx in my brushless TCs. I use nimh AAs and I routinely allow the batteries to get to 9.8V. I have never had a glitch problem with > 9.8V on the transmitter. Never with either LRP or GTB ESCs.

I do have a spektrum cap in my pit box, just in case.

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

One more thing to add, I have been running dry cells (1.5V) in my transmitter. This is a holdover from my pre-Spektrum days when I needed the very max transmitter wattage to combat glitching. A 24-pack of E2 is $10.88 at Sam's Club and they last at least a couple months. I keep them in the high 11 to 12 volt range for big races, otherwise let them get down as low as possible for practice - just be sure to put in fresh for big races. Not as cheap as rechargeables - I probably just need to order the $6.99 spektrum cap - but these were accessible same day vs. having to order and I guess I'm lazy too. I consider this pretty cheap insurance against the 1 glitch that might cost me a race (and parts).

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Now that I have that problem solved, I notice that every so often, I lose communication with the car..... Can't predict when or pinpoint where, but with the spektrum (of all high end things ), there will be a momentary lag. Now, I am running the cap and all stuff mentioned before. On profile 3, it is waaaayy easier to drive and a lot less violent (think of all the universals and diffs I tore up ). Any additional tips so my car can run virtually flawless...leading to the demise of my adversaries .........

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Which version of the Spektrum do you have? What you're describing sounds a lot like the problems people are having with the old system before the update when voltage would drop to a point where the receiver didn't have enough power and would drop into failsafe mode.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Heck, I would have to check. I bought the radio less than 7 months ago. Used it primarily for my Savage and obviously, the power problems don't exist for nitro like they do for electric.

gacjr0

iTrader: (15)

so, the only difference in the manual is the min drive. In profile 1 its 3% in profile 3 its 2%. You guys are feeling a big difference?

I have two GTB's but haven't changed profiles at all yet.
thanks,
Gary

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Huge difference! Launch is more subtle and not as violent as Profile one. Takes a second more to get to it's powerband, but when it does, it's gone like profile one. Much more stable on the take-off. You hit it on the head Kerr.