Paul L

I only use the Futaba 9550s in all of my touring cars and i have never had a problem with any one of them. And as for the torque and speed being a little less and a touch slower, i think that it is good that way. Terry Rott once convinced me to put a 60oz at .13 sec servo and at the time of 14turn motors and rubber tires it was so much better than my 110oz at .09 servo that i was running.
I think that for what we are doing now the 9550 is the best servo.
Im not saying that other servos wont work or suck but if you are going to buy a new servo i would go with that one.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I ran the 9550 for about a year and loved it. Very smooth servo. I run the KO now because it feels a bit more responsive. You really can't go wrong either way. If Paulie is running the 9550, it must be good.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

9550 all the way! Been running them for years with no trouble at all. One of the best servo's for touring cars I think. Plus the $80 price tag is just perfect too.

Kave

iTrader: (17)

$64.99 at the local hobbytown!

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

dare i ask if any1 has done any further 4c experiments w/their 007s?

mine is comin along slowly but surely. plopped an old 800c in it since i dont have bread for that 13.5 setup.

-R

initialrays

The US or EU conversion set,already have stock in asia.

http://www.racing11.net/shop/index.p...h=23_28_55_302

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

Watch that racing11.net place. I ordered something from them the day after Thanksgiving that was "in stock" and I still dont have it.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Nice! If only I could get our hobbyshop to sell them at that price!! hehe.. Hopefully they didn't miss mark it.. hehe.. I remember when Tower mispriced some Tamiya shocks once. So I bought up 2 sets for $29 each when they were suppose to go for $60.. hehe. After they sold out instantly they figured out their mistake and marked them up to the correct price.

daveb

iTrader: (4)

With X-Ray providing a conversion kit for the current T2. I think the kit alone has set a maximum in price for all "used" T2's hitting the board as of late. I've been seeing the used cars as low as $175.00. To bad for me, I guess I'll be shelling out for a new 007' and letting my son use my T2. If anyone out there wants to get rid of their T2 let me know. Just my .02

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Here's the layout for my electronics using the Novak GTB.

Deves

iTrader: (2)

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

lipo batts are much much lighter then 3800/4200 nimh. you need to add weight to the batter side.

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input Theisgroup, I realize I need to add weight I just wanted to know what other people were doing. I decided the best way to handle this is with some Xray balancing weights.

wcalaker

iTrader: (1)

Most weights ive seen added to lipos were lead weights with the double sided tape on them. Its ugly but it works. You need to add quite a bit. Not sure the Xray weights would actually be enough...i believe those are just to "fine" tune the weight distribution...not meant to add a good percentage of weight like the weight needed to make up the difference. I bought the lead weights that they sell for airplanes. At least thats where they had them at my hobby store. They were only like $4 a pack.
Thats about the only thing I dont like about my lipo...its too light...they pitch it as its a good thing but it really isnt. It would have been better had they made it closer to weight of a "normal" nimh pack. The other benefits still outweigh the weight factor. I suppose this may be somethign good for the new Losi but it might still be too light.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I'm tempted to buy a giant MaxAmps pack just so it's easier to make weight without adding half a pound of lead to the car. With all that capacity, you could get away with one pack easily, and just charge it every other round.