svines1972

iTrader: (26)

So, a set of yellow, white, and blue would be a good starting point along with the Gold and Silver that came with the car?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, yellows, whites, and light blues shouild be some good oene to get if you are running asphalt.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I will be running carpet/rubber & asphalt/rubber.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

That should be pretty good for both

part-time racer

svines1972: If you look on the xray site, you can see the set-up section. So far, most team drivers have only tested the car on carpet with rubber and in almost all cases the standard springs which get supplied with the kit are used.

With the T2'007, even the smallest shock mounting positions change has a real effect.

A friend of mine this year completed the whole of the UK National season with the standard springs (Silver / Gold).

jon123

iTrader: (7)

Looking for some advice on electronic layout.

I've got a Novak GTX and Futaba HRS receiver. It's REALLY tight if I put everything side by side. Too tight I think. Do you guys recommend putting the receiver on top of the servo or standing the receiver up, so it's on its side.

Thanks.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

Stand the receiver on it's side...

It always kills-me to see when people dish-out boat-loads of money to buy the latest "low-cg" car and then proceed in installing the receiver on the servo. Kinda defeats the purpose IMO.

As for space on the '007 - if you mount the HRS receiver on it's side, you should be good-to-go.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

WOW i thought there was lots of room on the chassis.

Excuse my sloppy wire job but here is 925servo,hrs receiver and quatum comp:

slotcarrod

iTrader: (2)

Hi Jon
I run the same stuff but just switched to the Futaba 2.4 RX. You want the lowest center of gravity!
I put my GTX with the solder tabs facing up and the heatsink facing the left. I remove (unsolder) the RED Battery to motor wire from the board. I then use a Dremel (sp?) cut off wheel and cut a slot in the circuit board so I can slip one length of wire in the hole, (Battery to Motor) and avoid using a T joint. Just remove about 3mm of the silicone housing around the wire, where it needs to be soldered to the circuit board. Make sure you tin the wire a little first. Reverse your BLACK wire on the board and reverse the Cap wires and lay the Cap flat on the chassis. This makes for the neatest GTX wiring on any TC. I wish I was able to get you some pics.
Your RX is very close to the GTX set button if you lay it flat. If you put it on it's side you have a hard time setting the channels on your RX. I move my servo forward by drilling and countersinking an extra hole the same distance as the third servo hole in the chassis. (I have found this helps the 007's balance as well!) You will now have more than enough room to lay the RX flat.
I mount my RX on Velcro to reduce any static or vibration. A plus is you can switch your RX to another car very quickly.
While you are at it. Shorten your servo and ESC leads to the minimum length.
I know this is a bunch of work, but it sure looks sweet!
Rod

jon123

iTrader: (7)

Thank you all for the quick replies. Much appreciated.

Joel, I wonder if the LRP speedo is a bit more narrow than the Novak. My layout seems to be a bit of a tighter squeeze.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

it must be cuz between the ESC and motor i got 5mm of space and between the servo and RX there is about 6mm of space left

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

there is nothing wrong with a tight squeeze....if it fits its all good.

jon123

iTrader: (7)

Does it make glitching more likely?

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

I have a very simular set-up with the GTX - except, I don't think it's necessary to Dremel the board ... rather, I just solder the motor wire on the opposite side of the board where the battery wire solders on, essentially creating the same thing you are doing without any cutting.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

I try to keep it as clean as possible, so I shortened all my wires.