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Old 02-20-2007, 03:15 PM
  #1936  
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Rod is right.....the 007 just keeps getting better as the setups become more refined. A big thanks to Greg Mills also......the setup helped me win 19turn Touring and helped me get my first win in Modified Touring for the WCICS series.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:25 AM
  #1937  
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Are the front caster blocks and rear hubs different from the T2 and the T2'007?


Looking to get 6 deg composite front caster blocks and the aluminum 1 deg rear hubs...
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:36 AM
  #1938  
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Originally Posted by Apex
Are the front caster blocks and rear hubs different from the T2 and the T2'007?


Looking to get 6 deg composite front caster blocks and the aluminum 1 deg rear hubs...
Nope. They're the same.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:37 AM
  #1939  
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Originally Posted by Apex
Looking to get 6 deg composite front caster blocks and the aluminum 1 deg rear hubs...
Just know that will decrease rear traction comapred to the front having alum in the back and composite in the front.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:41 AM
  #1940  
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good choice my man!

here is mine

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1...ture011ro8.jpg
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Old 02-21-2007, 11:21 AM
  #1941  
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Originally Posted by jallshouse
anyone have an extra battery strap they would like to part with? i cant find one anywhere, and if i tape myself to the car again i am just gonna hit the throttle and end it all

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Old 02-21-2007, 05:16 PM
  #1942  
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I cant see how switching from composite to aluminum on a hub or knuckle can make a difference especially in lap times or handling. Hell i couldnt even notice a difference by putting the center one-way in mine and that's a 60 dollar part. O well..
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:13 PM
  #1943  
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Originally Posted by sinisterRC
hope you are laughing at the throttle comment and not the fact that i cant find a battery strap
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:13 PM
  #1944  
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Just finished changing almost all buttonhead and flathead screws to titanium on my 007 US. I shaved off ~22g for 50 bucks seems like a steal of a deal
I did not change the ones in the bumper (would decrease the weight maybe an other 2g )
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:58 PM
  #1945  
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cvt, you can probably save 15g of unsprung and rotating mass by truing your tires down to 54mm.
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Old 02-22-2007, 05:28 AM
  #1946  
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Originally Posted by cvt01
Just finished changing almost all buttonhead and flathead screws to titanium on my 007 US. I shaved off ~22g for 50 bucks seems like a steal of a deal
I did not change the ones in the bumper (would decrease the weight maybe an other 2g )
What brand and where did you buy your titanium screws? I'm using T2'007 EU Edition.
I'm thinking of changing all my screws to titanium as I have change all the composite parts to aluminum...guess that would help me some on decreasing my weight.
Thanks in advance!



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Old 02-22-2007, 08:18 AM
  #1947  
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i'd like to know if inboard and outboard toe are added to equal complete toe on the setup stations. ex:1 degree inboard + 1 degree = 2 degrees on toe gauge, is this correct?
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:59 AM
  #1948  
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Originally Posted by Mini Toink
What brand and where did you buy your titanium screws? I'm using T2'007 EU Edition.
I'm thinking of changing all my screws to titanium as I have change all the composite parts to aluminum...guess that would help me some on decreasing my weight.
Thanks in advance!



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http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/advanced_...sort=2a&page=2

speedtech also has some
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:02 AM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by adamge
cvt, you can probably save 15g of unsprung and rotating mass by truing your tires down to 54mm.
I normally true them down to 58mm. 54mm pretty much makes them one run tire...
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:05 AM
  #1950  
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Originally Posted by cvt01
Thank you sir! Will check those sites



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