Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
10-03-2006, 08:32 PM
#212
Here is a thought. See if your speedmerchant will accept an Associated 1/12 scale front suspension. If the hole spacing is the same it might work while you wait for a car. Somebody at your track is likely to have a 1/12 car to look at and measure, or the lower arms can be purchased for about $3.50. You could buy a pair of these and if it fits (and has about the right width) the whole front Associated suspension will work.The front suspension bag costs about $40 from CRC. It might be available elsewhere. I think that Associated used a solid front suspension in some early cars so this may be an associated part. CRC also sells this solid front end so there is hope. I guess CRC sold out their remaning supply of Pantouras and are ordering new parts to be manufactured.
If you have not been to the previous page of this thread there is a lot of new stuff there. Video, Photos, Links, a new report on the 24 hour enduro event sponsored by CRC and IRS.
Boomer-I miss the nice picture of your experimental body when I go poking back through the thread.
If you have not been to the previous page of this thread there is a lot of new stuff there. Video, Photos, Links, a new report on the 24 hour enduro event sponsored by CRC and IRS.
Boomer-I miss the nice picture of your experimental body when I go poking back through the thread.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-04-2006 at 05:43 PM.
10-04-2006, 06:25 AM
#213
Hey John...you're right...have tried and swapped front end from my CRC T-Fource and its a direct fit on the SpeedSpec. The only thing is that its a lower profile than the stock SpeedSpec suspension, so i'll have to play with it to get it to where it needs to be. Going out for some testing this afternoon...lets see what happens.
10-04-2006, 07:03 AM
#214
Corally CCT Tires
Anybody knows if the Corally CCT uses Corally tires only, or it takes Jacos, CRC's, etc, as well? If only Corally, then which tires do I need? Looking for something equivalent to Jaco Pink rears and Jaco Purple fronts, for 1/10 pan car foam tires. There must be someone out there who knows Corally tires and the CCT...thanks...
10-04-2006, 08:07 AM
#215
You will need some Associated 3/4 inch 8 x 32 screws and enough washers or a spacer to raise the suspension a little over a 1/4 inch. Suitable spacers would be four 8 x 32 plastic nuts that can be used to secure wheels on a touring car.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-04-2006 at 05:42 PM.
10-04-2006, 07:03 PM
#217
Yes - A video is in the works. Within a couple of weeks at least. Depends on suitable sparring partners and track condition.
On Road Nationals (Nitro)
Our track is making early preparations for the RC Pro Series National Finals (Nitro) which will be held November 17th -19th. They pressure washed and cleaned the boards yesterday. The residue unfortunately is dried onto the track. They will pressure wash the track itself closer to finals. In the meantime the track was really slippery. We could not quite use full power on the straight.
Wide Pan Car Observations
First run. I had a lot more steering traction than with the narrow body under similar conditions although its never been quite this slippery. This was helpful most places but not on the sweeper. It looked like I could use more rear wing. I had a 1/4 inch auxilliary wing installed on the very back of the car that went straight up. Straight line stablility was poor. The car wandered left and right just like my first run with the Stilletto body. This may be due to the uneveness of the surface. It looked like I needed more side dam.
Unencumbered by regs I added the side dams and rear wing in the photo. The car handled well. The side dams look more like the size of the full size car 905B that I posted a link to on the previous page. I added more surface high as well as low where you could usually have a too wimpy section of body. I have some scraping on the track at 50 mph plus. It is slowing my speed. I'm not quite sure if its body or frame yet. I made adjustments to both. I put in a .063 inch center spring and the car got kind of bouncy so I went back to a .052 spring. The steering was not really affected as much with the wide car when I changed this center spring.
I had the car handling well by the end of the session. Great turn in. I can use good throttle on the sweeper, more so than with the narrow body.
Yaw rate (spin rate) is less with the wide track. You can recover from overdriving the car a bit easier. The slippery conditions really tested this. I had a good 12 minute run toward the end of the session. I probably need to mop the bad sections of the track to have a good session Saturday.
Note this is my high downforce trim. I can probably lower the wing as grip comes up. Side dams are .030 inch Lexan like the original dams.
John
On Road Nationals (Nitro)
Our track is making early preparations for the RC Pro Series National Finals (Nitro) which will be held November 17th -19th. They pressure washed and cleaned the boards yesterday. The residue unfortunately is dried onto the track. They will pressure wash the track itself closer to finals. In the meantime the track was really slippery. We could not quite use full power on the straight.
Wide Pan Car Observations
First run. I had a lot more steering traction than with the narrow body under similar conditions although its never been quite this slippery. This was helpful most places but not on the sweeper. It looked like I could use more rear wing. I had a 1/4 inch auxilliary wing installed on the very back of the car that went straight up. Straight line stablility was poor. The car wandered left and right just like my first run with the Stilletto body. This may be due to the uneveness of the surface. It looked like I needed more side dam.
Unencumbered by regs I added the side dams and rear wing in the photo. The car handled well. The side dams look more like the size of the full size car 905B that I posted a link to on the previous page. I added more surface high as well as low where you could usually have a too wimpy section of body. I have some scraping on the track at 50 mph plus. It is slowing my speed. I'm not quite sure if its body or frame yet. I made adjustments to both. I put in a .063 inch center spring and the car got kind of bouncy so I went back to a .052 spring. The steering was not really affected as much with the wide car when I changed this center spring.
I had the car handling well by the end of the session. Great turn in. I can use good throttle on the sweeper, more so than with the narrow body.
Yaw rate (spin rate) is less with the wide track. You can recover from overdriving the car a bit easier. The slippery conditions really tested this. I had a good 12 minute run toward the end of the session. I probably need to mop the bad sections of the track to have a good session Saturday.
Note this is my high downforce trim. I can probably lower the wing as grip comes up. Side dams are .030 inch Lexan like the original dams.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-04-2006 at 09:15 PM.
10-04-2006, 08:02 PM
#219
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
It looked like I could use more rear wing. I had a 1/4 inch auxilliary wing installed on the very back of the car that went straight up. Straight line stablility was poor. The car wandered left and right just like my first run with the Stilletto body. This may be due to the uneveness of the surface. It looked like I needed more side dam.
vets - any comments?
10-04-2006, 09:12 PM
#220
The front end is stuck like glue on the straight. There is huge front downforce. Thats where my rubbing is occuring. The front dam is rubbing the track in spite of the really stiff .024 front springs. The instability occured with a very short wing (only 1/4 inch high) alsmost stock. Stock side dams. I increased the wing in stages until I had good high speed (over 50 mph) stabiltiy. I can trim the side dams down; this is much easier to do than building bigger new ones for each adjustment. I would not mind actually getting some regs on wide pan cars for those that run under them. I would be interested in weight, maximum width, maximum height. Now if you look at the side dams on the full size Lola and Peugeot that I posted, they have pretty huge side dams.
I am also still interested in the width from wheel edge to wheel edge of a stock wide pan car for front and back. I need to make adjustments to mine.
I am also still interested in the width from wheel edge to wheel edge of a stock wide pan car for front and back. I need to make adjustments to mine.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-04-2006 at 10:46 PM.
10-04-2006, 09:28 PM
#221
I measured front width yesterday. Approx 210 mm. The rear on my car is about 10-15 mm wider than the front (didn't measure).
With the .24" front spring something else "gives" at high speeds. Your suspension arms flex will even come into play with a front spring that stiff.
With the .24" front spring something else "gives" at high speeds. Your suspension arms flex will even come into play with a front spring that stiff.
10-04-2006, 09:47 PM
#222
the old roar rules, 2" spoiler chord, 42.3 ounces.
10-04-2006, 10:37 PM
#223
Thanks guys. Now what does a 2" spoiler chord mean. From where to where. If I guessed right I'm at 2 1/16 inch now. I have done some modest trimming to the side dams. Lowered them to the wing. Lowered the wing one hole. I think the front of the body needs more support like you say. I may have to put the graphite front bumper back to support it better. Now if you can measure that rear for me. Mine is at 235 mm, but I am getting some tire damage from contact with the body over the bumps. It might be better if the tire could go under the body. I have trimmed the body out of the way in the mean time. I can adjust the rear spacers easily. I will eventually make new front spacers to bring the front down to 210 mm then. 15 mm is how much the front was narrower than the rear on the stock Pantoura.
I was expecting from Azmios rear experiment (rear wider: rear looser) that I might loose some steering with the front end as wide as the back. I don't notice this at all, but then the body is very different.
My Wife even comments how good this body looks. Has never happened before.
I was expecting from Azmios rear experiment (rear wider: rear looser) that I might loose some steering with the front end as wide as the back. I don't notice this at all, but then the body is very different.
My Wife even comments how good this body looks. Has never happened before.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-05-2006 at 12:12 PM.
10-05-2006, 03:00 AM
#224
Tech Regular
Are you sure the front fibreglass front arms are not flexing under load? use some rubber o-rings from a beer stopper to support the front of the body it may stop the front flexing too much under load.
Also can anyone compare Johns car to the corally c10x?
Also can anyone compare Johns car to the corally c10x?
10-05-2006, 06:45 AM
#225
chord is a measurement of length over the surface. basically cut a string to a 5 inch length. singe the ends. measure 2 inches from one of the ends and mark the string. measure that 2" against your overall "element" as some of the chaps say :P. make sure the string conforms to the bend. on the 905 the rear spoiler chord is somewhere in the neighborhood of 1 inch already.
5 " = 12.7 cm
2" = 5.08 cm
I do not know if the last 10 pan ROAR rules were the same as the IFMAR rules.
goto Page 47 -> http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/2006rulebook.pdf
5 " = 12.7 cm
2" = 5.08 cm
I do not know if the last 10 pan ROAR rules were the same as the IFMAR rules.
goto Page 47 -> http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/2006rulebook.pdf