Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
#1801
Here is the Pan car Prototype ready for Battle with a Hotbodies Toyota GT1 body. Note the side dam extensions forward which helps support the wing and keep the body from cracking in the center of the wheel arch. I used IRS white foam double sided tape to adhere the side dam. I tested this previously and it works well. Also note that that skull is not a Satanic symbol. It's a gear head which is what I am in a manner of speaking.
I have been experinmenting with reinforcing the front wheel arches as well. I do this with Fabric cement and Nylon or fiberglass cloth lately. It really helps strengthen the body although it will look fairly black underneath with use.
This body is no longer available here unless hot bodies would get a special request from a retailer.
John
I have been experinmenting with reinforcing the front wheel arches as well. I do this with Fabric cement and Nylon or fiberglass cloth lately. It really helps strengthen the body although it will look fairly black underneath with use.
This body is no longer available here unless hot bodies would get a special request from a retailer.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-20-2007 at 05:21 PM.
#1803
No personal production plans. I tried at a couple of places for possible production. There is little interest in Manufacturing a 1/10 pan these days. One problem is that unless you drive it, you don't really think it is any better than what is out there, but the difference is like night and day. It is just a public domain design at the moment.
John
John
#1805
I plan to race the pan car with Max Amps 4000 mA-h. They work great in this car. Not too heavy. They meet run time. I will be running against Nitro cars, so meeting minimum weight is not an issue. I will try the new 4700 mA-h pack by FMA direct (KoKam Patent) if it shows promise in the touring car. That Flightpower (TrackPower) hard sided pack from Towerhobbies looks interesting, but I have not purchased one. I am using only the FMA Scorpion balacing charger at present.
We had an interesting development at the track. The latex based sealer that was used recently did not quite seal the track well enough. They put on some oil based sealer and added a bit more sand than last time this week. This should favor the pan car, by giving us some traction. I'm excited about that possibility. Pan cars love traction.
John
We had an interesting development at the track. The latex based sealer that was used recently did not quite seal the track well enough. They put on some oil based sealer and added a bit more sand than last time this week. This should favor the pan car, by giving us some traction. I'm excited about that possibility. Pan cars love traction.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-20-2007 at 06:00 PM.
#1806
Tech Apprentice
I plan to race the pan car with Max Amps 4000 mA-h. They work great in this car. Not too heavy. They meet run time. I will be running against Nitro cars, so meeting minimum weight is not an issue. I will try the new 4700 mA-h pack by FMA direct (KoKam Patent) if it shows promise in the touring car. That Flightpower hard sided pack from Towerhobbies looks interesting, but I have not purchased one. I am using only the FMA Scorpion balacing charger at present.
We had an interesting development at the track. The latex based sealer that was used recently did not quite seal the track well enough. They put on some oil based sealer and added a bit more sand than last time this week. This should favor the pan car, by giving us some traction. I'm excited about that possibility. Pan cars love traction.
John
We had an interesting development at the track. The latex based sealer that was used recently did not quite seal the track well enough. They put on some oil based sealer and added a bit more sand than last time this week. This should favor the pan car, by giving us some traction. I'm excited about that possibility. Pan cars love traction.
John
Which Flightpower pack are you speaking of? The only hard sided case I can find is the gold brick under the TrakPower brand. I believe that one is an Enerland cell.
#1807
It is a Trackpower Battery in the FlightPower Family or something to that effect. Here is the part number SH2408. It's on page 36 of the Speedmart (surface) Catalog, $119.99. If you get a hold of one give us a report. If it is Ennerland as my ThuderPower battery was, it should be fast.
john
john
#1808
Tech Apprentice
It is a Trackpower Battery in the FlightPower Family or something to that effect. Here is the part number SH2408. It's on page 36 of the Speedmart (surface) Catalog, $119.99. If you get a hold of one give us a report. If it is Ennerland as my ThuderPower battery was, it should be fast.
john
john
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRWF7&P=ML
#1810
Tech Apprentice
Ah, cool. Yup, everything I've read says it's Enerland. I've been meaning to try one for a while now. They also have a matching gold balancer that's pre-wired for their style of balance plug, which happens to be match Orion's as well. I'm pretty sure the balancer is one of the many LBA6 clones that seem to work so well.
#1811
Here is a pic of the inner fender reinforcement. It makes the body last a lot longer before the wheel arch splits. Fiberglass cloth from Tower Hobbies. Sobo Premium Craft and Fabric Glue (8 fluid ounce) from a fabric store. I have tried three brands of glues that were reccomended early in the thread to repair the foam tire chunks. They all worked well for both tasks.
I ran a couple packs on brand new sealer today. The track was quite dusty from construction and moving the boards. The straight is flatter than it has ever been. I am getting some very good speeds on the straight and phenomenal turn in into the sweeper. I may be able to lower the car to 5 mm from 6.5 mm. I'll have to see. The rest of the track was a bit dusty so things will improve there tomorrow with RC traffic. The new front suspension worked great. I immediately got my good wear pattern on the tire. I don't think I have seen this pattern on a stock pan car as it scrubs the tire too much.
I have had good luck lately just wadding the spectrum antenna wire (only 3.6 inches long) into the main wire bundle which I zip tie, instead of using an antenna mount and tube. I have removed the tube for a test tomorrow. This mod worked great in the touring car during a race with plenty of traffic.
I ran a couple packs on brand new sealer today. The track was quite dusty from construction and moving the boards. The straight is flatter than it has ever been. I am getting some very good speeds on the straight and phenomenal turn in into the sweeper. I may be able to lower the car to 5 mm from 6.5 mm. I'll have to see. The rest of the track was a bit dusty so things will improve there tomorrow with RC traffic. The new front suspension worked great. I immediately got my good wear pattern on the tire. I don't think I have seen this pattern on a stock pan car as it scrubs the tire too much.
I have had good luck lately just wadding the spectrum antenna wire (only 3.6 inches long) into the main wire bundle which I zip tie, instead of using an antenna mount and tube. I have removed the tube for a test tomorrow. This mod worked great in the touring car during a race with plenty of traffic.
#1813
Thanks for the tip. A fellow at the track uses the same products you do. The advantage here is there are no fumes from the latex glue and the cloth is much more substantial than the mesh from the drywall. There is plenty of dry time to make things smooth. I used shoe goo for a while as well.
#1814
Track Test
Track Temp 125 F, Air Temp 90.
This was the first run on the new Asphalt based sealer with just a little more sand than last time. Traction was good. We had enough practice traffic to clean up the dust by my 3rd pack. Tire wear was medium. Each run ended with a thermal shutoff of the GTB system. The car would shut down and slow and then recover after a few seconds. This is the same behavior it had during its last race which was quite a while ago. I Installed a recently aquired LRP TC edition to see if it might not thermal tomorrow. The track should be in identical condition. Motor is my fastests Novak 3.5 R. By the third pack I was back in pretty good pan car form and was making fast laps. The motor was only 160F.
The second pic shows the fiberglass cloth reinforced fender after drying and one day of use. This particular brand of glue cleaned up well after track use and dried almost clear.
John
Track Temp 125 F, Air Temp 90.
This was the first run on the new Asphalt based sealer with just a little more sand than last time. Traction was good. We had enough practice traffic to clean up the dust by my 3rd pack. Tire wear was medium. Each run ended with a thermal shutoff of the GTB system. The car would shut down and slow and then recover after a few seconds. This is the same behavior it had during its last race which was quite a while ago. I Installed a recently aquired LRP TC edition to see if it might not thermal tomorrow. The track should be in identical condition. Motor is my fastests Novak 3.5 R. By the third pack I was back in pretty good pan car form and was making fast laps. The motor was only 160F.
The second pic shows the fiberglass cloth reinforced fender after drying and one day of use. This particular brand of glue cleaned up well after track use and dried almost clear.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-23-2007 at 02:03 PM.
#1815
LRP Sphere TC edtion brushless Speed Control
I had good luck with the LRP Sphere TC edition speed control. I made 5 runs with no thermal shutdowns of any type. On the third run I ran the car until the battery dumped. The Max Amps 4000 mA-h battery was a few degrees too hot at 150F and showed some slight puffiness. I used a timer on the next runs to limit time of the run. The battery returned to normal and worked OK on a subsequent run. Motor temps were never above 160 F in spite of good traction. The pan car was ballistic with the new surface. This is a very positive report for that speed control at a 125F track temp.
John
I had good luck with the LRP Sphere TC edition speed control. I made 5 runs with no thermal shutdowns of any type. On the third run I ran the car until the battery dumped. The Max Amps 4000 mA-h battery was a few degrees too hot at 150F and showed some slight puffiness. I used a timer on the next runs to limit time of the run. The battery returned to normal and worked OK on a subsequent run. Motor temps were never above 160 F in spite of good traction. The pan car was ballistic with the new surface. This is a very positive report for that speed control at a 125F track temp.
John