Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

With diff problems it is purley an outdoor thing with lower turn motors. I have raced indorrs on carpet and even in mod the diff lasts ages. The trouble is dirt goes straight through the diff hub and onto the diff plates. I have four diffs built ready to go all the time. Its not that much in parts and its worth it to just be able to drop in a fresh diff when ever you need too.

I have been testing a lot with setup recently using my version of a flex upper deck (limited flex). I have found the chassis quite fast even on old tyres and believe the setup will translate nicely to high grip US asphalt tracks. I'll see if I can post up the base version when I get up tomorrow and you can try it and tune from there.

When it comes to batteries for this chassis its a lot easier to use packs with deans plugs pre installed. This is more to do with some packs requiring a lot of dremel work to the upper deck to allow the bananna plugs to fit in easily. The deans can route out where ever it suits you.

As far as weight is concerned my chassis is currently 1380g balanced l/r and f/r, ready to race with personal transponder and full size servo. It also uses an RB-50 ESC and flyingfox layshaft and spool, standard weight body and no other lightweight parts. I never use the steel tray as it limits the f/r balance alot. Getting more weight off would not be hard with lightweight screws and low profile servo plus lightweight body.

Belty Dog

At the beginning, with Type-R (2 years ago), before switch at "seal system", I used till 3 diffs at race
Now (from about 1,5 years ) I use only a diff for race and the other two are redy to use.
After, at home, I pull off the used diff (that however don't need to rebuild) i put in the car one of the other two and I rebuild, anyway, the used diff.
I prefer this way so, during the race, never i have to think at the diffs...
I don't mean that this is the right way, it's only my tips
ciao ciao

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Due to a recent attack on my hosting company's (1and1 Internet) infrastructure a spammer has gained access to one of their database servers that house my customer email list. The spammer used that database to send this email:

with the subject line of "New Offer" and the from address being "[email protected]"

what ever you do

morris

iTrader: (44)

hey guys just got my flyfox racing layshaft and spool.
what for spur gears you all using.i recently been gearing like a 118 spur and 45 pinion.just need to know what brand of spur to get...kimbrough...?robinson...?

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I like RW.

morris

iTrader: (44)

i might be having a bad day but what is rw?

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

RW is a brand of gears made from acetal engineering plastic. Their design makes them run very true and they are some pretty tough gears.

I have 116 and 120 in stock in white, and 94 and 96 in stock in black (64p). Nexxus racing also carries RW gears, and i believe they have a broader range of sizes. I've found the 116 to work well for the Losi in 21.5 to 10.5 and the 120 to work in mod. The 94 and 96 is for the X-Ray T2 line but they work well on the flying fox adapter too.

morris

iTrader: (44)

thats kool...great info...will have to order some 116 gears then.
thanks

Spillertwo

Can confirm that the RW spurs hold up good in race conditions.
Just tested my layshaft this weekend in a race on carpet with the RW spurs and not one problem.
They run true and are good stuff.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I have never had one fail except for user error. They are narrow so they don't hold onto rocks or rubbish. They run straight and don't seem to wear at all. I also run they RW pinions as they are steel so they are bulletproof. In short they won't let you down which I have seen happen to many other of my fellow modified drivers with their choices.

-J-

iTrader: (16)

Are any of you guys running aluminum hexes? If so, which ones?

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

I have been running all three sizes from Losi, although not at the same time, obviously. They come in pretty handy. If you get them, watch the torque on the thinnest hexes, they don't need to be very tight and can bend if wrenched on too tight.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I run the stk sized ones (0.065) front and rear for rubber. You can't really go much bigger on the rear cause it makes the chassis greater than 190mm. Using larger sizes on the front is a quick and easy way to decrase front bite.

-J-

iTrader: (16)

Sorry for all the questions, but I just got the car, and am not really familiar with it quite yet. Thanks for all your help.

What parts would I need to rebuild my diffs?

Is the Flying Fox spool (or any spool, just mentioned Flying Fox because I know they make one, and was really happy with my layshaft by them.) worth running in 17.5 rubber on carpet over a traditional diff?

Is it normal to have a little wobble in the pulleys on each side of the layshaft?

Where do you guys order your parts from?

Thanks. Do you have a part number? I've found ones that are 0.165 and 0.06 offset but not 0.065.

Gergely

Hello,

Both FlyingFox spool and layshaft are awesome. Very nice and super light. I can highly recommend using them. I use the spool in the 17.5T class as well. On the other hand I am not using the original Losi outdrives but my own ones. If you read back a little you can see that Paul is already working on his outdrives too.