52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
06-30-2009, 06:54 AM
#9781
The problem I have been having with the diffs and dirt is not with the diff balls and d-rings (I run regular ball diffs, not spool)but with the part of the outdrive that goes into the diff tube and the tube itself. Because the outdrive has an open channel where the dogbone fits into it, grit tends to get in-between the outdrive and the diff tube through this opening and creates resistance in the drivetrain. I find I have to re-build the diffs often because of this, the rear about twice as much as the front. I am trying to figure out a way to prevent this from happening but have not had any luck to date. This is the only area on the type R that has given me problems and I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on a fix for this. Thanks in advance.
06-30-2009, 09:06 AM
#9782
The problem I have been having with the diffs and dirt is not with the diff balls and d-rings (I run regular ball diffs, not spool)but with the part of the outdrive that goes into the diff tube and the tube itself. Because the outdrive has an open channel where the dogbone fits into it, grit tends to get in-between the outdrive and the diff tube through this opening and creates resistance in the drivetrain. I find I have to re-build the diffs often because of this, the rear about twice as much as the front. I am trying to figure out a way to prevent this from happening but have not had any luck to date. This is the only area on the type R that has given me problems and I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on a fix for this. Thanks in advance.
06-30-2009, 09:39 AM
#9783
After I posted last night I thought of using the foam rings you put on the body post holes might work as a outdrive cover. That coupled with a makeshift dustboot attached to the foam and extending over the dogbone shaft as is done on fullsize cars like my 67 VW beetle cvd dustboots. I tried cutting a foam circle and using servo tape to attach it to the outside of the outdrive but this did not work- wouldn't stay put. Perhaps the foam body ring might work though. Maybe this is something flying fox could find a fix for- hint, hint. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
Last edited by Catbutt; 06-30-2009 at 02:09 PM.
06-30-2009, 12:35 PM
#9784
Start with a fresh diff hub, assemble your thrust bearing insert it into the opposite side of the spool, put a little bit of diff lub on the side of the ring that is going to mate with the diff sides, i use a teeeeeny bit of losi purple lube, put the two halves together. you can use a little bit of super glue as mentioned before (i don't because i'm f'in clumsy when it comes to glue) and tighten it down. Tighten it down until it makes contact with the spool pully and then tighten it down a little at a time (1/4 to 1/8 turn) util you cannot turn the spool pully with your fingers and then give it anothe 1/4 turn. You want it tight but not tight enough to strip out the diff hub.
A couple additions i've added recently were the sand paper discs from the xxx series. they make it so the pully doesn't spin as easily due to mechanical friction of the sandpaper.
A couple additions i've added recently were the sand paper discs from the xxx series. they make it so the pully doesn't spin as easily due to mechanical friction of the sandpaper.
cool I dont use a glue either for same reason
I went to race last sunday and broke 2 axle pins at same time! I think I got some of these pins mixed with CVD coupling pins and those pins are weaker I beilive.
also noticed diff wont last very long with the D ring mod, I'm going to try little tighter diff on next run.
happy hoilday!
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 06-30-2009 at 04:23 PM.
07-01-2009, 07:46 AM
#9785
Tech Apprentice
The problem I have been having with the diffs and dirt is not with the diff balls and d-rings (I run regular ball diffs, not spool)but with the part of the outdrive that goes into the diff tube and the tube itself. Because the outdrive has an open channel where the dogbone fits into it, grit tends to get in-between the outdrive and the diff tube through this opening and creates resistance in the drivetrain. I find I have to re-build the diffs often because of this, the rear about twice as much as the front. I am trying to figure out a way to prevent this from happening but have not had any luck to date. This is the only area on the type R that has given me problems and I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on a fix for this. Thanks in advance.
Try this: close with rubber tape or shrink tube the slot into outdrive. If you use the tape, secure it with a "tear" of instant glue on the end
The residue little little slot between the "D" ring and the tape yuo could close with rubber glue like Bostik
close all-round the hole on the diff tube with rubber tape or shrink tube. If use tape secure it with instant glue
close the internal hole in the other outdriver with an "O" ring and rubber glue
close the faces of the pulley with adesive paper.
Hope this hel you
ciao ciao
07-03-2009, 01:25 PM
#9786
^^^^ Pics required please matey! 
My Flying Fox layshaft arrived here in the UK yesterday and has been installed. VERY impressed with the quality of the item!
My Flying Fox layshaft arrived here in the UK yesterday and has been installed. VERY impressed with the quality of the item!
07-04-2009, 05:28 AM
#9787
Couple of pics
Hi everyone. Just thought I'd post a couple of pics of my Type-R.
Here it is in full-
I'm running a Nosram Matrix Stock Spec speedo on a 10.5 Novak motor. It's geared at 4.68 for our massive BRCA Nationals tracks. Current setup is a slightly modified version of the kit rubber set up.
You may notice that I have removed the 4 screws from the top deck and removed the centre of the top deck. You'd be amazed at the extra flex this gives and has increased traction massively.
Flying Fox layshaft is installed and works perfectly.
I was determined to be able to use the latest Lipos so some mods had to be made. I didn't fancy filing a £90 battery down. Cue a friend and a CNC machine on the steel lipo tray. The walls have been thinned out and the slight chamfer removed. Slots have also been cut in for the positioning lugs on the battery. A couple of coats of black spray paint and it looks as though it was born that way!
The tray mods have lost about 60g off the weight which is a slight negative, but it has enabled me to add a few more weights around the chassis without being well over our 1500g limit. It's perfectly balanced L/R now so I can mess about with the front to rear balance for tuning.
Here it is in full-
I'm running a Nosram Matrix Stock Spec speedo on a 10.5 Novak motor. It's geared at 4.68 for our massive BRCA Nationals tracks. Current setup is a slightly modified version of the kit rubber set up.
You may notice that I have removed the 4 screws from the top deck and removed the centre of the top deck. You'd be amazed at the extra flex this gives and has increased traction massively.
Flying Fox layshaft is installed and works perfectly.
I was determined to be able to use the latest Lipos so some mods had to be made. I didn't fancy filing a £90 battery down. Cue a friend and a CNC machine on the steel lipo tray. The walls have been thinned out and the slight chamfer removed. Slots have also been cut in for the positioning lugs on the battery. A couple of coats of black spray paint and it looks as though it was born that way!
The tray mods have lost about 60g off the weight which is a slight negative, but it has enabled me to add a few more weights around the chassis without being well over our 1500g limit. It's perfectly balanced L/R now so I can mess about with the front to rear balance for tuning.
07-04-2009, 05:30 PM
#9788
Tech Initiate
Hi everyone. Just thought I'd post a couple of pics of my Type-R.
Here it is in full-
I'm running a Nosram Matrix Stock Spec speedo on a 10.5 Novak motor. It's geared at 4.68 for our massive BRCA Nationals tracks. Current setup is a slightly modified version of the kit rubber set up.
You may notice that I have removed the 4 screws from the top deck and removed the centre of the top deck. You'd be amazed at the extra flex this gives and has increased traction massively.
Flying Fox layshaft is installed and works perfectly.
I was determined to be able to use the latest Lipos so some mods had to be made. I didn't fancy filing a £90 battery down. Cue a friend and a CNC machine on the steel lipo tray. The walls have been thinned out and the slight chamfer removed. Slots have also been cut in for the positioning lugs on the battery. A couple of coats of black spray paint and it looks as though it was born that way!
The tray mods have lost about 60g off the weight which is a slight negative, but it has enabled me to add a few more weights around the chassis without being well over our 1500g limit. It's perfectly balanced L/R now so I can mess about with the front to rear balance for tuning.
Here it is in full-
I'm running a Nosram Matrix Stock Spec speedo on a 10.5 Novak motor. It's geared at 4.68 for our massive BRCA Nationals tracks. Current setup is a slightly modified version of the kit rubber set up.
You may notice that I have removed the 4 screws from the top deck and removed the centre of the top deck. You'd be amazed at the extra flex this gives and has increased traction massively.
Flying Fox layshaft is installed and works perfectly.
I was determined to be able to use the latest Lipos so some mods had to be made. I didn't fancy filing a £90 battery down. Cue a friend and a CNC machine on the steel lipo tray. The walls have been thinned out and the slight chamfer removed. Slots have also been cut in for the positioning lugs on the battery. A couple of coats of black spray paint and it looks as though it was born that way!
The tray mods have lost about 60g off the weight which is a slight negative, but it has enabled me to add a few more weights around the chassis without being well over our 1500g limit. It's perfectly balanced L/R now so I can mess about with the front to rear balance for tuning.
07-05-2009, 07:41 PM
#9789
jrx-s type-R gearing question
I am wanting to run a novak 17.5 brushless motor , 2-cell lipo battery, gtb esc, my trans. ratio is 1.83 what tooth spur and pinion would I need to get close to a 3.50 F.G.R. either a 64 pitch or a 48 pitch, I also have the prs adaptor, I tried a 90t spur and a 46t pinion 64 pitch and I did not have enough travel on my mount to slide over for the teeth to mesh, any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks
07-05-2009, 07:50 PM
#9790
where do you guys run your front and rear roll centers on rubber tire asphault???
07-05-2009, 07:58 PM
#9791
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I am wanting to run a novak 17.5 brushless motor , 2-cell lipo battery, gtb esc, my trans. ratio is 1.83 what tooth spur and pinion would I need to get close to a 3.50 F.G.R. either a 64 pitch or a 48 pitch, I also have the prs adaptor, I tried a 90t spur and a 46t pinion 64 pitch and I did not have enough travel on my mount to slide over for the teeth to mesh, any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks
07-05-2009, 08:31 PM
#9793
I am wanting to run a novak 17.5 brushless motor , 2-cell lipo battery, gtb esc, my trans. ratio is 1.83 what tooth spur and pinion would I need to get close to a 3.50 F.G.R. either a 64 pitch or a 48 pitch, I also have the prs adaptor, I tried a 90t spur and a 46t pinion 64 pitch and I did not have enough travel on my mount to slide over for the teeth to mesh, any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks
BTW taht kinda tall, make sure check the temparture in every 2minutes or so.
07-05-2009, 11:05 PM
#9794
Stop spaming every thread with this useless adverts.
07-06-2009, 12:22 AM
#9795
I am wanting to run a novak 17.5 brushless motor , 2-cell lipo battery, gtb esc, my trans. ratio is 1.83 what tooth spur and pinion would I need to get close to a 3.50 F.G.R. either a 64 pitch or a 48 pitch, I also have the prs adaptor, I tried a 90t spur and a 46t pinion 64 pitch and I did not have enough travel on my mount to slide over for the teeth to mesh, any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks