Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#9302
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
#9303
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
It just may be that they do race on tracks with very high grip levels. The setup attached is Larry Fairtrace's winning setup from last years Reedy Race.
#9305
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Just thought I would post a few pics of my adjusted layout on my chassis with the new speedy.
Speedy on the right, mounted side on and against battery tray to keep weight near center.
I removed the solder posts and put the wires straight into the holes to reduce weight up high and help keep things a little lower.
Power wires are setup to use packs with terminals on either side.
The capacitor is behind the speedy with the switch on top.
All wires excluding power and motor run under the top deck to keep weight low.
Reciever on left up near the front with transponder under and in front of the front diff.
There is 40g on front left in front of reciever to balnce chassis left to right.
There is 60g over the front with 20g on the back of the servo, 20g on the back side of the front bumper (nice spot here being well forward), and 20g around the transponder.
The weight and placement gives the chassis 52/48% f/r weight balance and a ready to run weight of 1488g (without swaybars which should turn up tomorrow)
There is also a fan heatsink on the motor but I have yet to put the fan on it which will slightly effect the balance but it won't be much.
This layout was not to bad to drive considering there was no swaybars and was over 0.5sec a lap up on the nearest guy in 10.5 rubber at my home club.
Speedy on the right, mounted side on and against battery tray to keep weight near center.
I removed the solder posts and put the wires straight into the holes to reduce weight up high and help keep things a little lower.
Power wires are setup to use packs with terminals on either side.
The capacitor is behind the speedy with the switch on top.
All wires excluding power and motor run under the top deck to keep weight low.
Reciever on left up near the front with transponder under and in front of the front diff.
There is 40g on front left in front of reciever to balnce chassis left to right.
There is 60g over the front with 20g on the back of the servo, 20g on the back side of the front bumper (nice spot here being well forward), and 20g around the transponder.
The weight and placement gives the chassis 52/48% f/r weight balance and a ready to run weight of 1488g (without swaybars which should turn up tomorrow)
There is also a fan heatsink on the motor but I have yet to put the fan on it which will slightly effect the balance but it won't be much.
This layout was not to bad to drive considering there was no swaybars and was over 0.5sec a lap up on the nearest guy in 10.5 rubber at my home club.
#9306
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
1 of my Type R for sale
I have a Type R for sale RTR listed below:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ber-setup.html
Thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ber-setup.html
Thanks
#9307
Sorry guys but I can't understand the concept of low rear, high front. I would imagine that you would get a monster reactive front end that throws the back around like a toy into turns but then understeers like crazy. This would work with foam but not rubberz. You must be runnning on funny tracks to use such a setup or just insane grip levels.
#9308
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I've tried different camber link combinations and different spring rates but it always wants to keep turning. The only thing working is very soft(10.5lb) rear springs.
Thanks for continuing to help out us Type R guy's.
#9309
Higher rear pins will usually give you more rear side bite, you may also consider running more toe in, i was runner 4 per side in rubber the last few races i ran a type r.
#9310
Hi Mike.
I'm one of the few peeps using the type R over here in the UK, I still think its great. I haven't done too bad with the car in Pro-stock (10.5 b/l). For this year going back to Mod. Should be fun (Losi better make lots of spares).
Would you able to post up or send me ( To post on my setup pages ) your final rubbers setups. Did you just use the 1 deg toe in blocks with the 2 deg pivot or did you achieve it another way.
Many thanks for all the help you gave us over the time with the team. All the best with the Mission.
Cheers
Tim
I'm one of the few peeps using the type R over here in the UK, I still think its great. I haven't done too bad with the car in Pro-stock (10.5 b/l). For this year going back to Mod. Should be fun (Losi better make lots of spares).
Would you able to post up or send me ( To post on my setup pages ) your final rubbers setups. Did you just use the 1 deg toe in blocks with the 2 deg pivot or did you achieve it another way.
Many thanks for all the help you gave us over the time with the team. All the best with the Mission.
Cheers
Tim
#9312
Mike, when running the higher rear pins do (did) you raise the rear inner camber link at the same time to keep the same camber gain ?
Thanks.
#9315
Anyone have any luck getting a Trinity 5000 mah lipo,TRI20808, to fit?
I bought one and it seems a little tall in the rear, but the front seems ok.
I bought one and it seems a little tall in the rear, but the front seems ok.