52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
07-17-2007, 01:41 PM
#4921
NICE!!!!!!!!!!!! 
so can I get one of each on approval for "testing purposes" 
so can I get one of each on approval for "testing purposes"
07-17-2007, 01:50 PM
#4923
07-17-2007, 06:57 PM
#4925
I dont have a printer so heres the text format, if someone wants to put in blank setup sheet and post all good
Bending Corners Raceway, Orange, CA Outdoor Asphalt, openish, med-high bite
FRONT
Front Toe.....0'
Ride Height.....5.2mm
Camber.....-1.25
Kick/Dive.....N/A
Caster.....4
Droop.....2.5
F Pivot.....0
Roll Center.....Low
Arm Spacing.....Middle
Shock Position.....2
Steering Rack.....2
Spindle Ackerman.....1
Camber Link.....3
Camber B/Stud.....Std
Sway Bar......N/A
Up Travel.....N/A
Arm Length.....Long
Front Drive.....Spool
Pulley.....42
Diff Height.....High
Drive Axle.....LCD
Hex width.....Stk
Oil......Losi 35
Piston.....56
Spring.....15
Bladder.....Black
Above Bladder.....NONE
JR Link.....Low
Washers under B/Stud.....0
Ball Stud.....Std
REAR
Toe.....3'
Ride Height.....5.4mm
Droop.....4
Camber.....1
Anti/Pro Squat.....N/A (but an option to get more rotation and forward bite)
Hub.....Std
Roll Center.....Low
Arm Spacing.....Front
Shock Position.....3/outside
Camber Link.....5
Ball Stud.....Std
Sway Bar.....N/A
Up Travel......N/A
Arm Length.....Long
Diff Height.....Low
Drive Axle.....RCD
Hex Width.....Stk
Oil.....Losi 30
Piston.....56
Spring.....10.5
Bladder.....Black
Above Bladder.....NONE
Washers.....N/A
Body.....Mazda Speed 6 wigth Ride Wing
3.5 B/L
128 Spur
25 Pinion
FDR 9.37
5 Cell
4200 cells
RP30s, Stk PG Insert, Speedmind soft rims
Buggy Grip for traction compound
Bending Corners Raceway, Orange, CA Outdoor Asphalt, openish, med-high bite
FRONT
Front Toe.....0'
Ride Height.....5.2mm
Camber.....-1.25
Kick/Dive.....N/A
Caster.....4
Droop.....2.5
F Pivot.....0
Roll Center.....Low
Arm Spacing.....Middle
Shock Position.....2
Steering Rack.....2
Spindle Ackerman.....1
Camber Link.....3
Camber B/Stud.....Std
Sway Bar......N/A
Up Travel.....N/A
Arm Length.....Long
Front Drive.....Spool
Pulley.....42
Diff Height.....High
Drive Axle.....LCD
Hex width.....Stk
Oil......Losi 35
Piston.....56
Spring.....15
Bladder.....Black
Above Bladder.....NONE
JR Link.....Low
Washers under B/Stud.....0
Ball Stud.....Std
REAR
Toe.....3'
Ride Height.....5.4mm
Droop.....4
Camber.....1
Anti/Pro Squat.....N/A (but an option to get more rotation and forward bite)
Hub.....Std
Roll Center.....Low
Arm Spacing.....Front
Shock Position.....3/outside
Camber Link.....5
Ball Stud.....Std
Sway Bar.....N/A
Up Travel......N/A
Arm Length.....Long
Diff Height.....Low
Drive Axle.....RCD
Hex Width.....Stk
Oil.....Losi 30
Piston.....56
Spring.....10.5
Bladder.....Black
Above Bladder.....NONE
Washers.....N/A
Body.....Mazda Speed 6 wigth Ride Wing
3.5 B/L
128 Spur
25 Pinion
FDR 9.37
5 Cell
4200 cells
RP30s, Stk PG Insert, Speedmind soft rims
Buggy Grip for traction compound
Last question GC....is the droop measured from ride height?
07-17-2007, 07:40 PM
#4926
Yes it is the number over ride height. So if you have the cheapy plastic gauge that came with the kit, place that flat on the chassis parrallel to the arm that you are measuring. The front droop is measured to the base of the set screw boss and the rears are measured to the base of the rear hub carrier
07-18-2007, 09:18 AM
#4928
You would use the bk position. The long rear arms can double up as short also, just "slide" them outward (you must flip the pivots around as well). The front arms you would need to get in order to try short.
07-18-2007, 03:38 PM
#4930
I had a discussion with a R&D person from another company who acquired a Type R and dissected it and the way I understand it is this. The arms for the type R are too short for asphalt by 1/4 inch either side 1/2inch total this is the length of the arm not including the hub and hex. In fact getting wider hexes doesnt solve the overall situation because there is something to do with the dynamic forces acting upon the distance between the arm perpendicular to the shock tower............
burn out for my brain right there.....Generally speaking the longer the arm the better the traction in med-low grip situations and the narrow the arms the better for high traction situations hence the Losi on carpet is a gem. Making the arms shrter will apparently provide yet more traction on carpet but as with anything there is a point of critical mass whereby too much of anything can be a bad thing.
I am not a designer nor mechanical engineer and I didnt understand, to some extent, all of the physics involved and why this is so, however the person providing the information is and is also a factory driver and therefore I will take his word at face value. If Ron, Todd or Chadwick or anyone else for that matter want to jump in and fill the rest of us in please do so.
burn out for my brain right there.....Generally speaking the longer the arm the better the traction in med-low grip situations and the narrow the arms the better for high traction situations hence the Losi on carpet is a gem. Making the arms shrter will apparently provide yet more traction on carpet but as with anything there is a point of critical mass whereby too much of anything can be a bad thing. I am not a designer nor mechanical engineer and I didnt understand, to some extent, all of the physics involved and why this is so, however the person providing the information is and is also a factory driver and therefore I will take his word at face value. If Ron, Todd or Chadwick or anyone else for that matter want to jump in and fill the rest of us in please do so.
07-18-2007, 04:24 PM
#4931
or you could throw all that mess out the window and drive the car, it's pretty dang quick on carpet and asphalt. it's certainly not at a disadvantage compared to any other car on the market. maybe the arms are a little shorter than optimal, but having the mass of the batteries and motor on the centerline of the car probably evens things out.
the easy way of understanding short arms vs. long arms is this... short arms give a little less traction on whatever end they are installed on.
the easy way of understanding short arms vs. long arms is this... short arms give a little less traction on whatever end they are installed on.
07-18-2007, 04:34 PM
#4932
or you could throw all that mess out the window and drive the car, it's pretty dang quick on carpet and asphalt. it's certainly not at a disadvantage compared to any other car on the market. maybe the arms are a little shorter than optimal, but having the mass of the batteries and motor on the centerline of the car probably evens things out.
the easy way of understanding short arms vs. long arms is this... short arms give a little less traction on whatever end they are installed on.
the easy way of understanding short arms vs. long arms is this... short arms give a little less traction on whatever end they are installed on.
now do explain why this is so and what setup options would mitigate the shorter arms less traction issue and why these options work. Also since Im here, why is that narrower arms provide more traction on carpet? Another question comes to mind, if the arm length were to be the equivalent of the current arms + .225 hexes how would that change the dynamics of the cars handling?
I dont mean to sound harsh here, but I for one would like to understand the reasoning (cause and effect) behind my setup alternatives such that I dont blindly go off making changes that have absolutely no chance of solving my issue. I guessn we wre way beyond setup here and more into design concepts but again there are some things that are worth investigating.
I am by no means talented in the driving department and I guess by understanding whats happening with the car designm will help me to consider my driving style and to understand what is happening to the car at any given moment whether corner entry, Apex, exit or straight line.
Last edited by GCracker; 07-18-2007 at 05:14 PM.
07-18-2007, 05:25 PM
#4933
in all honesty, i don't analyze my setups all that much. i start with a known setup for my track, in my case that would be todd's setup from the '06 nats. i work from there until it's fast for me. i generally just adjust the basics like arm position, shock position, and springs. all that other stuff requires too much thinking, and i do too much of that at work
07-18-2007, 06:18 PM
#4934
Or did somebody say 'Lipo tray'?
JRX-S Type-R Steel LiPo Battery Tray-LOSA4312
· Allows existing JRX-S Type R owners a direct fit option for standard LiPo battery packs
· Adds an additional 120 grams to offset the reduced LiPo battery weight
· The additional weight is place in the most ideal position possible ( placed directly in the center of the chassis and as low to the ground as possible
· Finished in an attractive gloss black and engraved with the Type-R logo
JRX-S Type-R Steel LiPo Battery Tray-LOSA4312
· Allows existing JRX-S Type R owners a direct fit option for standard LiPo battery packs
· Adds an additional 120 grams to offset the reduced LiPo battery weight
· The additional weight is place in the most ideal position possible ( placed directly in the center of the chassis and as low to the ground as possible
· Finished in an attractive gloss black and engraved with the Type-R logo
That is awesome, a slab of steel on a racing car. In the owrld of graphite, titanium and alloy who would think this was a required part
07-18-2007, 06:58 PM
#4935
Well I guess each to his own everyone is in this hobby for different reasons...........
Last edited by GCracker; 07-18-2007 at 07:10 PM.