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Old 03-12-2012, 01:07 PM   #13081
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Well, outdoor season is almost here (30th I hope). But this year's going to be different. Last year I kept running less motor that everone else trying to give'em a chance. I'm hitting the track with all I got this year. This year it's going to be "KEEP UP OR QUIT!"
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #13082
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Sorry for the dumb question but how do you make a front spool for this car? Been looking at it for a bit and cant figure it out.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:29 AM   #13083
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Sorry for the dumb question but how do you make a front spool for this car? Been looking at it for a bit and cant figure it out.
There is a pulley set that has plastic rings glued in where the diff balls would sit, you need that, or make some rings with sandpaper on your regular pulley, and tighten it up.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:14 PM   #13084
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I found some thin rubber washers at Ace hardware, with a little inside triming they work on the stock diff pulleys. Only thing i noticed, i chew up the outdrives very easily(the spline that locks to the aluminum tube) Is there another spool option, that is avail? I can't find the flying fox parts anymore.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:21 PM   #13085
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I'm also always looking for good rubber tire setups on carpet, medium grip and track. More preferably the roll centers, sways, and camber links, and shocks. Switching to the spool made the car rotate and pull out of corners alot better, but the rear of the car is so loose. I'm having a difficult time finding balance.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #13086
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I'm also always looking for good rubber tire setups on carpet, medium grip and track. More preferably the roll centers, sways, and camber links, and shocks. Switching to the spool made the car rotate and pull out of corners alot better, but the rear of the car is so loose. I'm having a difficult time finding balance.
I was having the same issue, part of it was the car and part was my driving style. Without going in too much detail, if you just let off the throttle to set the front end when going into a turn and then immediately add some throttle through the turn you can reduce the tendancy for the rear to slide.

I also found by lowering the rear inside camber link to the bottom hole it seemed to help keep the rear more planted. I have the camber set at 1 degree on the rear and 2 degrees on the front, you may play around with that, what works for one may not work for another. I also am running the 2 degree toe block in the rear, which seems to help it turn better. I am also running lighter springs in the rear, right now its 17.5 front and 15 rear, I may go to 12 in the rear to see if it helps more. I'm afraid that 12 lb springs in the rear may let the rear unload too much going into a turn, defeating the purpose. Also I am running low roll centers front and rear.

Good luck
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:03 PM   #13087
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Originally Posted by noyz View Post
I'm also always looking for good rubber tire setups on carpet, medium grip and track. More preferably the roll centers, sways, and camber links, and shocks. Switching to the spool made the car rotate and pull out of corners alot better, but the rear of the car is so loose. I'm having a difficult time finding balance.
I was having the same issue, part of it was the car and part was my driving style. Without going in too much detail, if you just let off the throttle to set the front end when going into a turn and then immediately add some throttle through the turn you can reduce the tendancy for the rear to slide.

I also found by lowering the rear inside camber link to the bottom hole it seemed to help keep the rear more planted. I have the camber set at 1 degree on the rear and 2 degrees on the front, you may play around with that, what works for one may not work for another. I also am running the 2 degree toe block in the rear, which seems to help it turn better. I am also running lighter springs in the rear, right now its 17.5 front and 15 rear, I may go to 12 in the rear to see if it helps more. I'm afraid that 12 lb springs in the rear may let the rear unload too much going into a turn, defeating the purpose. Also I am running low roll centers front and rear.

Good luck
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:28 AM   #13088
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I'm still pretty new to this racing thing but I've found the items that I'm happy with and not changing from track to track are RC, link position, and toe. Front to rear speaking, I run my roll center low/high, my links 1/7 & toe 0/3 (all inboard). I'm finding myself changing springs, sways, camber and even caster now depending on grip level. Just to clarify, that is for rubber tire carpet.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:05 PM   #13089
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Anyone need another car? This car is just way too fast for my skills.

FS: Losi Type R
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:41 PM   #13090
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I've been having the issues with my Type-R being loose on rubber tires with the spool, so I started removing things instead of adding them. I stripped off my swaybars, canted my rear shocks all the way in, went to 30wt rear oil and 40wt front, the softest rear spring and a 17 pound front spring, really carefully assembled the rear diff to get it super smooth, went to 2 degrees rear toe, two degrees of camber in the rear, zero toe and zero camber in the front, and lowered the ride height as far as I could legally. This took a lot of the drift out of the back end, but it's still not perfect or nearly as planted as my competition, and I'm running out of ideas except for thinner shock oil. Basically if I let off the throttle, the back end wants to come around, if I keep it on power, its a lot more managable.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:26 PM   #13091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Kindstrom View Post
He's mine. I used a Kinetic with a shorty on the steel tray. I had to shave some of the metal off of the steel tray in order for the shorty to fit flat. I also cut 2 slots on the tray so that I can tape the pack down. It will be easier to remove the upper deck to exchange lipos than to remove the tray. I will add more pics when I complete the electronics install. I plan on running 17.5/13.5 this summer to get ready for the 2012 Paved On-Road Nats.

I'm in need of a starting asphalt setup and I'm looking for an Exotec upper deck. If you have either please post info or PM me.

I will have s mall run of upper decks come in this week
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:18 PM   #13092
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I did alot of the same things, then put the front diff in and ran it very tight, and things are drivable. I also took a dremel to the top decks to soften them, it helped.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:09 PM   #13093
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I've been having the issues with my Type-R being loose on rubber tires with the spool, so I started removing things instead of adding them. I stripped off my swaybars, canted my rear shocks all the way in, went to 30wt rear oil and 40wt front, the softest rear spring and a 17 pound front spring, really carefully assembled the rear diff to get it super smooth, went to 2 degrees rear toe, two degrees of camber in the rear, zero toe and zero camber in the front, and lowered the ride height as far as I could legally. This took a lot of the drift out of the back end, but it's still not perfect or nearly as planted as my competition, and I'm running out of ideas except for thinner shock oil. Basically if I let off the throttle, the back end wants to come around, if I keep it on power, its a lot more managable.
Well last night after weeks of tuning on the chassis, a friend came over and wanted to drive my car. We traded cars. We have the same cars and radio's. He said that mine was really loose compared to his, and he was right. I thought mine was a lot better than it really was. After driving his I found I was wrong. After copying his setup almost completely, mine was amazing. Really the only thing I changed was the roll centers, I went to high roll centers front and rear and put in a lot of droop to allow the car to roll more without unloading the tires. Our track has a lot of traction, and locking down the chassis really hurt the car. After the changes, you can really see the body roll, but it seems to work. Might be something to try.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:11 PM   #13094
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Well last night after weeks of tuning on the chassis, a friend came over and wanted to drive my car. We traded cars. We have the same cars and radio's. He said that mine was really loose compared to his, and he was right. I thought mine was a lot better than it really was. After driving his I found I was wrong. After copying his setup almost completely, mine was amazing. Really the only thing I changed was the roll centers, I went to high roll centers front and rear and put in a lot of droop to allow the car to roll more without unloading the tires. Our track has a lot of traction, and locking down the chassis really hurt the car. After the changes, you can really see the body roll, but it seems to work. Might be something to try.
Good information. better now with higher roll center.
Question is how to set high roll center ? or how high it should be in your case ?
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:09 AM   #13095
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Good information. better now with higher roll center.
Question is how to set high roll center ? or how high it should be in your case ?
To change your roll centers, all you have to do is turn the front and rear pivot blocks over. Be sure to change the guide pins to the other side of the pivot block so they stick into the chassis. When changing the small pivot blocks, you will have to swap them to the other side of the chassis to make them work. The instructions are on page 6 of the owners manual.
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