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Old 03-20-2011, 09:30 AM   #12886
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What would be a good starting point for my FDR for a a tight carpet track, med-high bite, rubbers with a 10.5 Ballistic. Today I was running a 126T spur & 30T pinion, at work so I don't have the exact FDR, and it wasn't as quick as the 17.5 boosted cars. Maybe it's because I'm don't have boost and my LiPo's are only 20 & 25 C ??

BrodieMan, Novaks tech info on their website recomends to start your FDR at 5.5. Going to a 34t pinion will get you in that ballpark. I would also try going to a smaller spur. PRS has adapters so you can run more than the stock Losi spurs. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:09 PM   #12887
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Sweet, that helps heaps. I was at 7.6ish so 5.5 will definitely get me up to pace.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:49 PM   #12888
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Ooops! Sorry BrodieMan, just redid my math & if your set on keeping the 126 spur then you would need a 41t pinion to get you in the ballpark. Fat finger syndrome on the calculator. For 17.5 class I'm geared a hair under 4 FDR & I have no problems with motor temps & the car runs fast.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:09 PM   #12889
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I accidentally ordered 0 degree C-Hubs and two sets to boot. Will there be a big difference in steering going from 4 - 0 degrees? From what I understand turn in will improve, which I had plenty of anyways, mid and exit cornering will be reduced and straight line stability will decrease. Where should I start for changes to counter the difference? Front shock angle and dampening? The easy solution of course would be to order more 4 degree C-Hubs but I am really trying to cut back on RC expenses that are not absolutely necessary. Just when I had my setup really dialled too. Thanks guys.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:09 AM   #12890
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I accidentally ordered 0 degree C-Hubs and two sets to boot. Will there be a big difference in steering going from 4 - 0 degrees? From what I understand turn in will improve, which I had plenty of anyways, mid and exit cornering will be reduced and straight line stability will decrease. Where should I start for changes to counter the difference? Front shock angle and dampening? The easy solution of course would be to order more 4 degree C-Hubs but I am really trying to cut back on RC expenses that are not absolutely necessary. Just when I had my setup really dialled too. Thanks guys.
You could always run shims under the front suspension brace. That will add "kick up" and caster to the wheel.
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:04 AM   #12891
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LOTS of parts and CAR sale.
Will post internationally, buyer to pay the shipping.

Rhys


***LOSI JRXS R plus parts***
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:39 PM   #12892
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Anyone still got a car for sale??
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:51 PM   #12893
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Anyone still got a car for sale??
PM sent...
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:57 AM   #12894
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here is mine



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Old 03-26-2011, 07:50 AM   #12895
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anyone know where i can find one of these new in the box?
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:36 PM   #12896
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anyone know where i can find one of these new in the box?
Leading Edge Hobby shop in Kingston, Ontario still has three NIB JRX-S Type R's I believe they are $224
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Old 04-03-2011, 02:00 PM   #12897
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My VTA car ran absolutely flawlessly all weekend at the USVTA Nationals, and was great just about out of the box early in the event. It really is an ideal spec or VTA chassis—easy to set-up, easy to work on, very well balanced and relatively inexpensive, to boot.

I made a 4-spring change and removed my swaybars, and the car was really perfect—I wish the driver was as good as the car was. The only real updates on the car from box stock are a front spool, standard front camber link instead of a JR link, steel LiPo tray and a hard Parma front bumper. The rear chassis supports were removed, as well.

I'm attaching a setup sheet as my car was raced yesterday. It's a setup that I will take to any track anywhere as a baseline. A great place to start for VTA guys on carpet, for those who have been looking for a good baseline.
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Last edited by squarehead; 09-16-2012 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:16 PM   #12898
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I'm not a big fan of VTA bodies but that one looks AWESOME. Nice job
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:32 AM   #12899
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Thanks, it turned out really nice. Looked great on the track, too.



Out of curiosity, can anyone contribute to a list of ROAR-approved hard case LiPo packs that fit in this car without any modification? So far, the only luck I have had is with the original Orion Platinum 4800 20C. Anything else out there less than 47mm wide?

Hacking and Dremmeling of the car should not be a prerequisite to being able to use contemporary LiPo packs in the JRXS Type R.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:54 AM   #12900
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Squarehead... I use lipos from a company called Fantom racing here in Michigan. The prices are great and my only complaint is I need to use shorter screws to keep it from getting nicked by those on the top deck. It's a 5400 25C battery that I use in our local 17.5 non boosted touring class. Here's a link and I believe you CAN order directly from them if you find you like them.

http://www.fantomracing.com/products...atteries+Packs

Here's what I use... http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...AN26210&cat=11

Hope that helps.
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