James khoo

iTrader: (15)

Run my kit,find out that the car left fight weight are very important.Due to my ESC and receiver are on right side viewing from rear,the car loose rear when corner to the right on power,but turn left no problem.
End up adding weight to the left of the chassis.

captain stacker

iTrader: (10)

I also find the type r harder to drive than any other TC I've had. I also own a T3, and cyclone and they are alot easier to drive. The type r seem twitchy in comparison. I started out using the stock asphalt setup, then ran spool. Ride height/droop I try and keep all my cars pretty much the same. 5mm/2mm, 5.5mm/3mm.

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

I ran my JRXSR with overdrive yesterday on a carpet track with foams. It really suited my driving style of braking heavy before a corner and powering through it. The rear end wasn't stepping out near as much. I have always ran overdrive in my XXX4 so maybe I was just used to it but I really felt that the car was more planted through corners than not running any overdrive.

My last pack of the day I was really in the groove after a so-so day of practice and when I got home I noticed ALL the screws holding the motor-side bulkhead to the chassis had fallen out. Again the JRXSR showed how bullet proof it was when my front left tire came off at the end of the straight (wasn't having the best practice day) and I slammed into the barrier full throttle. Put the tire back on and ten seconds later I was back turning laps

dmakrc

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info OUTAFOCUS...my has the same issues w/the exotech topdeck as well as stock...i actually did reverse of what you did, had topdeck, then went exotech...

does that mean my base chassis is tweaked and i gotta replace it ? crap this thing is sucking as I'm always trying to get it right...others w/xrays jus keep running...maybe time to ditch this thing...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

To check your chassis you will need to remove it completely and place on a flat surface to see if it is warped.
But first, you both should remove your battery and wheels and then reset tweak. Some batteries fit so tight that they can cause issues that you may need to look into.

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for popping in here to discuss this issue MikeR.

My batteries are the Trakpower 3600 and fit the Type R like a glove. No contact between any bulkheads or any other part than the foam spacers and the plastic bottom tray.

The email suggestion of drilling out the screw holes on the top deck are most likely going to correct the issue. With such a small amount of "meat" around all of the mounting holes, Im hoping I wont need to open up the holes much.

I will be practicing at the track tomorrow night with the stock deck on. Im pretty sure my tweak issues will be solved. But thats not to say the car will drive any better.

I havent placed the Exotek top deck flat up against the stock deck to check to see if all the holes are aligned. I still have my steering posts and other steering parts on both decks and am not interested in pulling them off quite yet because its a pain to get the aluminum steering posts off.

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

I still run the stock top deck and I don't think it is necessary to run the exotek. The two most noticeable changes are droop and roll centre. I've found the car to run better when adjusting these two things.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I would go as far to say the exo tech deck is going to slow you down under the majority of racing conditions. My brother and I have done a lot of testing in this area and the only reason to run the car with no upper deck supports is if the car is bad to drive and consistency is killing you. The car without side posts has the least potential for lap speed and is far faster with the kit top deck. Generally we find that the front posts only gives the chassis the best combo of speed and driveability. We remove some of the top deck as well.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Ok sir- let me know how it goes

WIITA

iTrader: (43)

delete

DuckStang

iTrader: (14)

One thing that got me confuzzled and I hope it does not get other people confuzzled is the arm length. When I read the kit book and setup sheets, it always confuzzles me that the arm length listed as long actually gives the car a narrower track width, and short it gives the car a wider track width. Am I reading this correctly, or is it a typo in the manual.

It would make sense a long arm gives the car the wider track width and the short arm a narrower track width.

BrodieMan

iTrader: (3)

I think you are reading it wrong. The outer holes for the Hubs hinge pin is labeled as Long and the inner holes as short. With the hubs hinge pin in the outer/long holes the car will have a wider track width and vice versa for the inner/short holes.

DuckStang

iTrader: (14)

I have been looking at the book for 2 hrs last night. I am talking about the pivot blocks that the arm pins attach to. The inner holes, be it a high or low roll center is the long arm, the outer holes is the short arm.....I don't get it. I have been running the kit with the arms in the inner holes of the blocks.....maybe it is my whole problem. Maybe someone can chime in and letme know.

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

The inner holes on the pivot blocks are for the longer arm setup. The width of the car does not change between either long or short arms, just the length of the suspension angles.

The inner pivots are long arm setup.
The outer pivots are short arm setup.

All it does is change the geometry of the suspension, not the dimensions of the car.

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

So vta is a bust at my local.
Looks like rcgt might make a comeback.
I am lost in the t.car world and could
use an rcgt setup (17.5 non boost-carpet).

I currently run Mikes top deck but can swap if need be.
Also need to know what body (rcgt) works good with a jrx-r.

Thanks.