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Old 12-03-2010, 01:33 AM   #12616
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Don't know if Mike Haynes is still driving a Type R but if he is, COOL!

Mike Haynes
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:39 AM   #12617
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nope,he is driving hotbodies
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:00 AM   #12618
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nope,he is driving hotbodies
Doing quite well as of last weekend, too!
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:02 AM   #12619
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why there is no improved steel lipo tray that fits more batts in.
lots of other aftermarket mod, why no steel tray???
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:05 AM   #12620
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I'm hoping with the new TL Racing brand, an updated sedan will come along. I hope.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:24 AM   #12621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSLST View Post
why there is no improved steel lipo tray that fits more batts in.
lots of other aftermarket mod, why no steel tray???
The tray is not the real problem its the height of the batteries. When the car was envisioned I am sure they did not think the batteries would be as thick as they are. There are alot of brands that fit this chasis. Don't get stuck on the battery brand to many people may be stuck on what battery they want rather than what gets the job done and still meets the basic requirements.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:52 PM   #12622
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pls let me know what brand lipos fit the stock tray without any mod.

thanks 1,000,000
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:00 PM   #12623
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pls let me know what brand lipos fit the stock tray without any mod.

thanks 1,000,000

On the cheap, the turnigy 4000mah's. I have 3 of them for my jrxs and when faced with the leads forwards, it clears the servo and the wires are flexible enough to just tuck under the top plate.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:09 PM   #12624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSLST View Post
pls let me know what brand lipos fit the stock tray without any mod.

thanks 1,000,000
Promatch 50C 5000mah fit with the Exotek top tray. Cant go any bigger than those in any direction.

Not sure if they will with with the standard deck.

http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=2506
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:40 PM   #12625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSLST View Post
pls let me know what brand lipos fit the stock tray without any mod.

thanks 1,000,000
As stated before, the TrackPower 3600 and 4900 packs fit perfectly as do the older Checkpoint (the red chrome coloured ones). In addition the current Thunder Power packs fit with only a tiny bit of dremelling of the top deck to allow clearance for the balancing and power "pig-tails".

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 12-05-2010, 02:58 AM   #12626
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Current 6200mah packs needs dremelling
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Old 12-05-2010, 04:24 AM   #12627
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Just wondering if this car discontinued?

I just took mine for its first drive today and it was on rails.

Lastly, what are the must have spares for this car?
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Last edited by mini696; 12-05-2010 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:18 AM   #12628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckStang View Post
On the cheap, the turnigy 4000mah's. I have 3 of them for my jrxs and when faced with the leads forwards, it clears the servo and the wires are flexible enough to just tuck under the top plate.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:02 AM   #12629
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Just wondering if this car discontinued?

I just took mine for its first drive today and it was on rails.

Lastly, what are the must have spares for this car?
Yes, the JRX-S Type R is discontinued. I race at a club with a lot of newbs so their is lots of contact and all I have broken is two Ball Ends!!! This car is SOLID. A few pages back I have some pics of my mod that moved the rear shock tower back so the Ball Ends won't break as easily, it's worked great so far. Belts, Pulleys, Arms, Caster Blocks & Shock Towers are always good to have on hand but in 5 track days I have needed none of them
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:54 AM   #12630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mini696 View Post
Just wondering if this car discontinued?

I just took mine for its first drive today and it was on rails.

Lastly, what are the must have spares for this car?
The R is pretty solid as others have said. In a little under a year of racing I've managed to break a few ball ends, a ball stud (split right down the center!), a rear arm, 2 C-hubs and a fragged one of the pins in a front LCD (to be fair I was running a spool!). To be safe I'd suggest having the following:

2x 4deg C-hubs
2x Front arms
2x Rear arms
6x ball-ends
A few ball-studs
1x LCD rebuild kit
2x balls/rings for diff rebuild

All of this stuff is readily available through places like Stormer/A-Main/Ampdraw.

Also if you are removing your diffs frequently you probably want to have a package of the rubber o-rings that hold the diff/spool in the eccentric...I found that they don't last too long if you are taking them on and off frequently.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,
Mike
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